Loren@65GS.com

This is the wire I mentioned in my first reply. After cutting the connector off the old harness, tape this wire to the harness and pull it up the column as you remove the old switch. Then after you have removed the terminals from the plastic connector of the new switch, tape the pull wire to the new harness and pull the new switch harness down into place. If it hangs up somewhere you can work it loose by pulling back and forth gently. You should be able to pull the new harness through fairly easily.

This picture is so you see what the terminal looks like. Notice the locking leg of the terminal. I bent the one out as it would be normally. Both legs are normally bent slightly out to hold the terminal in place. You will have to bend the locking legs of the terminals slightly out when you install the terminals back into the connector. My reasoning for cutting the wires of the old harness is that you can use it as a reference to reassemble the new terminals in the connector. Just pay attention to the wire colors and their placement. Some of the wires have a tracer color on them, take notice of that. Some of the wires are solid color and no tracer. -

This is one of the automotive electrical tools available. Looking at the end of the plastic connector, notice the spaces on each side of the terminal. As you can see, the tool fits in these spaces. By gently twisting the tool, the locks of the terminal will be released from the connector and the terminal can be pulled out from the wire end. If it doesn't release and pull out easily, just try again.

Today was a bit busy, no shop time. I will work on pictures tomorrow. Loren

You are so correct in that color can be slightly different from run to run. That is exactly why we would buy extra hides and yardage in the initial order for a job. Interesting that we can be so concerned about an exact match with something when Buick painted the front clip separate of the rest of the body. I understand it resulted in a mismatch sometimes or so I have read in these forums. It really boils down to what you expect of the finished job and what you want to achieve. Do you want a 400 point restoration? Or do you want an extremely respectable car to enjoy and drive. Just my $ 0.02 worth. Loren

I think you only need to remove the horn bar completely and the nut that holds the steering wheel on. The you are looking at the splines. No need to remove the steering wheel from the shaft. Just hoping to add some clarification. Loren

Wow, that is disheartening. I have used Tom in the past for NOS materials and has been great to work with. Another source is Pyramid products in St Paul , MN . They are wholesale only, so an upholstery shop will have to contact them. I have purchased NOS materials in the past from them and come up with some hard to find fabrics. Some wholesale houses have original books from the manufactures that assist in identification . I've also worked with Legendary Interiors, you just have to be patient and persistent. One Of the '65 Skylark Gran Sport guys worked with SMS to have the correct headliner material reproduced in silver. I sewed and installed the seat covers for that car and helped with many other tasks in his restoration. The car was awarded a New Senior Gold at the 2015 BCA Nationals. Since then it has achieved an AACA Junior and Senior award. A good upholsterer can replace the seat insert and back rest insert [ if needed ] into the original sides and bottom skirt. As noted in an earlier reply, you will need to check for sun fade to determine that. You should be able to find a piece of salvage area that has been out of the sunlight. Check the back seat cushion or back rest. It will require removing the seat . Best of luck, Loren

impacsys , There is a pin that can be removed. Then the lever can be removed. there is a spring in there also. That is not the way I would approach replacing the switch. Myself, I would remove the terminals from the curved plastic connector. Then reinstall the wires to the proper spot. It is a bit involved, but I think it is easier then disassembly of the upper column. Please read this whole description before starting. Got Questions , Ask away. To start, on the old harness , cut the wires on near the curved plastic connector. Keep in mind you want to have enough wire remaining at the plastic connector [ say about 1/4"-1/2' long ] to be able to identify which color wire goes where, when we get to the final step. Now attach a fish wire to the harness wiring, be sure it is secured well. I like to use a wire that is stiff but bends easy. I keep a roll of this cheap wire in my tool box and sometimes it comes in real handy for many tasks. This wire will allow you to remove the old harness and then install the new one more easily. Now for the tricky part. The metal terminals must be removed from the plastic connector of the new switch harness. There are two tabs on the metal terminal that can be pushed to allow the terminal to slide out of the plastic connector. I will need to go out to my shop latter to take pictures of the tool, the terminal and try to show you how it works. Future reply, stay tuned. Once the terminals are out, the new wire harness can be taped to our fish wire to pull the new harness in place. Then gently pull the lock tabs out a little on the terminals of the new harness. Insert each terminal in the correct location of the curved plastic connector, [ this is where why we cut off the old wires the way we did at the start ]. Check each to make sure it is secure in the connector , just a gentle tug will tell you if it is locked in. If the wire pulls out, you need to bend the lock tabs a little more. Button up the top end , connect the bottom end to the main harness and you are done. Easy Peasy ! I will try to finish this with some pictures in a couple of days. Loren

This switch is listed in my Buick Parts book as a replacement for either BPC or guide. Gr. 2.895 P/N 382048 Buick parts book description : 64 40-41-42-4300 Less Tilt 382048 Switch& Control[complete] use as a repl. for switch & hsg. stamped bpc or guide [used 2.896] Type Strg. Whl. eBay has one listed : https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-Buick-Skylark-1964-Oldsmobile-Pontiac-turn-signal-switch-382048/202219010290?epid=655224445&hash=item2f153138f2:g:crQAAOSw42JZBVcK&vxp=mtr The one above that I found at TPP says 64-66 application, but I question that after looking in the Buick Parts book. Loren

Found this one and a few other on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Turn-Signal-Switch-Various-GM-Cars-1964-66-D6200-New-for-1966-GTO/263445376068?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3Dac2b2fe27e19454ebfcf11acdda0fd63%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D351300449635%26itm%3D263445376068&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 The Parts Place also has the BPC switch. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-66-GM-Turn-Signal-Switch-Without-Tilt-Stamped-BPC-GM-387115/351300449635?fits=Year%3A1964|Make%3ABuick&hash=item51cb237563:g:PBEAAOSw9eVXUNPl&vxp=mtr Loren

Thanks for the lead. Loren

Thanks for the replies. Loren

I know I'm asking a lot here, but here goes. Looking for a solid floor for Roxy's '63 Riviera. Whole parts car or just the floor with braces. Any thing out there ? Have trailer , will travel reasonable distance . Loren

Looking for a solid floor for Roxy's '63 Riviera. Any thing out there ? Have trailer , will travel reasonable distance . Loren

eBay, The Parts Place, Year One, Rock Auto, OPGI , Fusick Automotive Parts and CARS. I might have missed one. These are very common because they fit most all A-body GM. The trunk pan for a Chevelle is a little different then the rest of the GM cars. If I recall correctly, the trunk is shorter. I know that the Chevelle frame is shorter in the trunk area then the Buick, Pontiac and Olds. I invite you to stop in at 65GS.com. It is a forum with a lot of good information on '64-'66 A-body Buick. It is about more then just '65 Gran Sports. Loren

Jeffery, Message sent Loren

Thanks Robin

Hey, do I get any points for having the correct name ? haha Loren

The parts book description , "Collector, Front Wheel Static". My understanding too, is it's purpose is to reduce radio static. My '65 parts book has in in Group 6.331 P/N 7276381. Loren

Thanks for adding that Ed. My oversight. Loren

Looks like you have come across the source of the problem. The melted connector and burned terminal on the ignition switch says too much Amp draw going through the connection. I would definitely consider a new ignition switch , new plastic connector and new female connector on the red 10ga wire. Most likely issue is that the contact surfaces inside the switch are tarnished / corroded . I have repaired some of the automotive switches with good results. I like to test the resistance before and after servicing. There have been some that had very high resistance to start with. When finished, they usually end up with a 3 - 4 tenths of an Ohm resistance. Loren

All the parts you have mentioned are listed on eBay. I did separate searches " Buick nailhead fuel pump eccentric " , " Buick nailhead crankshaft oil slinger ", " Buick nailhead crankshaft bolt ". Loren

There is no retainer used. Install the cam gear, then the fuel pump eccentric and the washer and bolt to hold the eccentric in place. The oil slinger goes on the crankshaft with concave side facing outward. Loren Edit : the fuel pump eccentric bolt torque value is 3 - 5 foot pounds.

If I understand correctly, the passenger remote mirror on Roxy's '63 must have been dealer installed. Loren

Received it and a great conversion we have going. I love the pictures of your car . Nice color and terrific patina. Enjoy sharing that sweet Buick ! Loren