c49er

If that is a picture of the front interior of your car, well it looks to be a real "GEM" of a 1954 Dodge! I personally would not be so economy (cheap) minded on a nice car like that. I would fix that stock radio or even spend four or five hundred and update it internally to a FM unit . Jeesh, you will get a lot of satisfaction fixing that radio instaed of using a 9V portable radio.

JC Auto Restorations has distributor service and parts for all 1955 and up Chryslers.

The C45/C46 1949 Chrysler convertible 1/4 panel belt mouldings are different than all other 1949-50 Chrysler 4dr/cpe's ect. Same for the door top mouldings and the two wrap around the back window mouldings-they too are convert only. All the mouldings sit on the top edge of the doors and 1/4 panels. They do not sit vertical as on the coupes and sedans. Those are going to be tough trim pieces to find. I looked the parts up in my 1949 Chrysler parts book. Bob

That number on the rocker sill is the part number. It's possible the rocker panel sill has been replaced because it shows the part#. Also there is the decorative aluminum sill plate that covers the area showing that part# and edges up to the rubber step plate. The T&C is shown but the same type of aluminum trim sill plate.

I use low range on hills then quickly pull down into high range to over come this issue. You could install a down shift button to make split shifting easier.

If the oil in the trans was too thick, yes it could cause a delayed downshift. Your problem is that oil pressure is not getting completely dumped to zero when you hit 10-13 MPH when coming to a stop in high range gear-5-7MPH in low range.The stalling at idle? Does the engine run well and idle extremely smooth? It should. Even if the Anti-stll does not work normally the engine should not stall coming to a normal driving slowing stop. Possibly the interupter switch circuit is faulty in some way and killing ignition when the trans shift piston momentarily kills ingnition to release the blocker ring torque. The resistor could be damaged. To see if it will downshift at a normal 10-13 MPH when coming to a stop in the normal high range, connect a wire to the "yellow" governer downshift circuit say at the carb downshift switch. Run it into the car where at you will you can ground the other end of this wire by just touching it to a metal ground like on the steering coluum somewhere convenient. Now drive the car and come to a normal stop and at say at 10MPH ground the wire and hold it grounded as you com to a stop. It should downshift imediately as a normal stopping downshift should occur. If it does now downshift, it means that the wiring, resistor or governer are probably the problem- not oil viscosity. The two terminal interupter switch also needs to be tested by taking it off the trans and use a ohmmeter and see that without pushing the ball it should read open, or have NO continuity. Push the ball in and the meter should show a reading and continuity. The governer points could be oily and need a gentile cleaning with a cloth and cleaner-they are silver don't file them. Also the governer could be worn-that is the plunger phenolic resin shaft tip is worn down. Just remeber the solenoid needs 6 volt power to dump oil pressure to cause a down shift. It there is no voltage to the trans solenoid the trans will imediately upshift from a stop and stay in high direct at all times and will not downshift even at a complete stop unless you hold the clutch pedal down and wait 5-10 seconds at a full waiting stop for pressure to bleed off back to I've posted a couple governer pics off a 1946-8 M-5 but are basically the same as the 1949-53 M-6 trans. Follow the Imperial site info and you will get it fixed.

Here ya go. Watch this original MTSC trouble shooting training video on your M-6 Trans. There are 2 or 3 vids on the M-6 trans. Watch em all! Bob

I have never seen a 1950-52 Dodge that was not a fluid drive coupling car. Have had several including Gyro-Matic's.

The warranty is as long as the company is in business!

Probably time to sell some of those hub caps!

You can rock the car in any gear and it won't do a thing-it's a fluid drive coupling car. Soak it and try the starter if that does not work pull the engine and do it right-rebuild it so you can drive it with out smoking everyone behind you out! Even if you do get it un stuck the rings will most likely be frozen in the piston ring lands and the top ring land will be severely worn too. mayb e not. Been there done that on a lot of old Mopar flatheads.

I've been a menber for a long time and enjoy it. Lots of interesting stuff there.

I have never seen a factory 3 pass or club coupe done in two tone. Here are the paint combinations for 1946-8 Chryslers. Codes 31,44,46,54,64 and 87 are upper and lower two tone combo's.

I got mine just because I saw it in the shop manual time and time again. I have never needed one and as mentioned there are modern ways forchecking TDC. On a MoPar flathead I have never needed one in 40 years of rebuilding them. The tool is just cool looking!

I have the same tool with no instructions either. Came in a steel box. Bought it at a local swap meet for $20.00 a few years ago. Here it is in #6 cylinder in a Plymouth flathead. It's just a curiosity now days!

I know the routine too Jay. It's a lot of moving cars to get them all back and ready for the long winter sleep! I use Go Jaks to move some of mine around the shop too. Sometimes seems too much. I'm just a temporary maintenence man for these cars for someone in the future! Bob

The swan necks are just for looks mostly. If the fuse on the transmission relay on the left fender well is burned out there is no 6V power for the kick down solenoid to dump oil pressure and the transmission will stay in high range till the car comes to a complete stop with the clutch pushed in.. In other words the transmission oil pressure stays up and holds it in high range even at a stop unless you push in the clutch to release the torque load on the direct speed blocker ring and shift collar. Check that fuse first and then try coming to a stop with the clutch pushed in and see if it shifts down once you come to a complete stop. So remember this... if the fuse is burned out on the fender mounted transmission relay or the transmission wiring does not supply 6V power to the shifting solenoid, the M-5 transmission will imediately upshift to high range when you let off the gas for a second and stay in high range until you come to a complete stop with the clutch pushed in-then it will finally clunk back into low range after a second or two-oil pressure has to drop to zero. If it does better and downshifts with the clutch depressed at a stop, get a factory shop manual and learn about your M-5transmission and how to service/diagnos and maintain it! You will be happy that you can take care of it your self. Otherwise to find a person who knows much about these transmissions is getting difficult now days. Bob

I am really interested in the Turn signal light assemblies. Could you post a couple pics of your parts or send them to my PM email. Thank you. Bob

This tank on Ebay-didn't sell. I believe it's for your car. It has the vent tube as a 39 P-8 does. Listing#150946221754.

I just googled it and imediately came up with this at Part# @ Auto Zone. The part # is what you need to search the seal from more suppliers. Egge probably has one as well as many others like Hagens. Price will be all over the board. So shop if price is of concern!

T&C = real Town and Country convertible, sedan or barrel back Chrysler woody.

Some woodies were top of the line show pieces. The Town and Country from 1941-50 were examples of very fine wood craftsmanship. All fit up was near perfect when the cars were new.

I did a DeSoto 236 a long time ago with out pulling the head. It had a broken valve spring. Saves a ton of time not having to pull the head and do all the clean up plus a new HG and coolant too. Some pics of doing one an hour ago on a engine in my shop. The head was on. You screw the tappet adjuster down all the way to be able to remove the spring-not enough space to remove the screw on this 230 engine. Then push/hold the valve up while unscrewing the spring off the stem and along side of the adjusting screw. Took 1/2 hour to R&R the spring off and on. Bob

Maybe later today I'll go out to the shop and pull one on a parts engine. I'll post pics.

You can do this job easily without pulling the head. Remove the sopark plug. Use a thin rod slightly bent to hold the valve head down. Pull the side cover. Tap on the valve spring retainer to break it loose from the 2 keepers- this makes it easy to lift up just the valve spring and retainer. Sometimes the retainer gets stuck to the two valve stem lock retainers. Use the side valve spring compressor to raise the spring and retainer while holding the valve head down. DO NOT let the two small valve stem keepers fall into the pan! I suggest not rotating the valve either. You will have to raise the valve and possibly need to back off the adjuster to pry the old spring out.