KenHupp20

Thread repair file has 11,12,13,14,16,20,24 tpi,it’s a flat file to use on the male threads.Try google or YouTube,very handy tool.

Thread files are darn handy too.

Tom,Ithink the hole at top of cylinder is how it was cast.Went straight up through to hold a core for the rough bore and cavity for valves. Holes were plugged somehow after. Ken

Uh oh,not good.Keep us posted.

Wow, very nice looking.Do you have a photo showing how it came from the printer,before polishing?

Good stories. Makes the hobby fun.I had a ride with John Lothrop in the Corbin,wow! Drove it like he was a teenager in a sports car.He was a very talented man,could build anything in his basement. Please keep us posted Tom,and good luck.If you do have to get the cam out it was suggested to me to make a locating jig before removing the babbitt.Luckily,I did not have to do one.Also there has been some previous discussion on the cam babbitting on this forum.One of the gentlemen from down under.

Hi Tom, I think my pistons are Jahn’s,but not positive.I do think you want to go with new aluminum. As David mentioned the cam could be a nightmare.Do you have a really good shop to do Babbitt? I think there are several places to have the cam done,but getting it back in the side plate is the big one. How is the engine otherwise,crank,the cylinder bores,valve guides,the main,rods? Ken

I bet this wasn't cheap,but oh my.

You might find this drawing helpful. Ken

The man on right was like a grandfather to me. I guess this T had a habit of overheating due to it's nickname.

I saw this on bring a trailer.com http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1925-ford-model-t-speedster/

Curious what this car is thanks

Thank you.Fun growing up back then.

I know exactly what this is for! When I was a kid there was one in the garage,left by the previous owner.Playing around the neighborhood we found a cannonball out in the bushes.It was so heavy we had to roll it home.Ya,sounds dumb now but as a kid of course you bring it home. Well we figured that old gizmo would be great to move our new "toy" around.So we got it in there and pushed it out the driveway across the street and started up the neighbor's drive.It was a bit of incline so we needed to push.I was in the back and dontcha know it started rolling back right over my fingers. Jeez hurt like hell,ran into the house,mom put it in cold water I guess.She briefly thought about taking me to the doctors to get it looked at .In the end she decided not to,she didn't want to have to explain how her son had been run over by a cannonball.

Not sure,but I suspect it was modeled in clay then this was was cast in wax. There is a note from the artist"one wax of Grey Wolf".

Can anyone tell me more about this piece. 8" long 4"high this one is cast in beeswax May have something to do with VMCCA ? thanks Ken

Damn spell check ! should have been peening of the babbitt after the pour. Not sure how you would do that in this situation.

1 1/4" bore 2 5/8" o/c 5/16" holes on mine

The slipping is pretty much normal when you shift,it takes a few seconds for the oil between the plates let them grab.Not good if it continues to slip obviously. The photo David posted shows one bronze was riveted to the clutch drum so actually there should be the fibre and one more bronze. I don't know who did that or why,I would not. Also recommend you very carefully open the clutch to check the bushing for the forward end of the main shaft. Also note how clutch came off crank,and replace same way. And check end clearence once bolted up,I think the gentlemen from down under might be more knowledgeable on that topic. Good luck,Ken

The tubes empty right into the crankcase.

If I remember correctly the book calls for motor oil in the gearbox. 140 might be causing a lot of drag between the plates spinng the gears,therefor you can't get it in gear. On the other end of the spectrum of problems too slippery of an oil the clutch will slip when in gear. I tried multi-vis and too much slip. Straight 30 works for me. As for adjusters there are three Allen head screws in the back of the clutch hub.they will increase,or decrease pressure on the clutch spring. Unless your car is a early one,like mine,and no adjusters . I would change out the oil before fiddling with anything. I find the getting into reverse first will stop the spinng inside the gearbox a bit lees painfully .

I agree with David.if the car does have the adjusters might buy a little time before the inevitable. The only other question would be is the oil in the gearbox too heavy?Straight 30 should be good. Good luck,Ken

Any luck yet?unless you car is an early one there should be 3 adjusting screws on the back of the clutch hub. Ken

Hello Max Service bulletin ? I have always wondered if there might have been some.Can you tell us more ? How many ,subjects covered on the model 20. Thanks,Ken

Amen to that, Please do post some photos . Ken