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1912Minerva

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About 1912Minerva

  • Birthday 10/17/1972

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  1. Hi Tom, Whats the plan for the damaged rear block? Or do you have another you can use? Good luck with the rebuild... Regards, Andrew.
  2. Great video Phil. Nice to see another Torpedo! Hope you're well and keeping safe.
  3. Wow, yes I totally agree - well done. The ad matches the photo so well!
  4. Our 1911 Torpedo bodied Model 20 at the National Veteran Car Rally in Bundaberg a few weeks ago. Cheers
  5. Thanks for your advice Tinindian - appreciated. Regards, Andrew.
  6. Hi All, Just wondering what people thought was a good cylinder compression reading (PSI) for a Model 20. I am getting 55 PSI on 1,2 & 3 and 25 on No.4. Obviously there is a problem with 4. I did a leak down test and it looks like rings are not seating. Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers, Andrew.
  7. Thanks for the photos Simon, that's given me some ideas. I have glued an oil seal outside the block and machined a small section of the flywheel away so that if fits with over the seal with some clearance as it spins. This seems to be working at the moment.
  8. Yes, I think the back should be solid. I found I was getting a lot of oil leaking from there until I started filling the crank case to what I now think is the correct level. ie I was overfilling the crankcase. Simon - does your car leak oil where the crankshaft comes out of the front of the engine where the flywheel is? Cheers, Andrew.
  9. Congrats Buzz! Looks like a really nice car. I love the monocle windscreen. I think the Hup 20 compares pretty favourably with the Ford Model T (I've owned both). There is some good knowledge on this forum so if you have any questions when you start playing with it, someone should be able to help you out! Regards, Andrew.
  10. Hi Simon and David, Here are some photos I obtained from this forum when I was having a problem with my gearbox/clutch. My engine would slow down and stall when the clutch was depressed and on pull down, I found the thrust washers were missing. With the help of this forum, i had washers made up and now things work pretty well. Cheers, Andrew.
  11. Well done Phil - your car looks great! Did you have any issues with oil leaks? I find my Hup changes back to Low quite nicely using double clutching. Cheers, Andrew.
  12. Thanks Phil, David and Ken, I need to drop the top of my petcock tube a bit more to get exactly 3/4 inch. Looking at the diagram Ken, the top of the petcock tube is exactly in line with where the top of the oil scoop (bottom of big end) would be at the bottom of the stroke. It is interesting that the end of the big end bolt and nut "blocks" the oil scoop. When putting my motor together we thought about that and worried that the bolt would form a "groove" in the oil and the immediately following oil scoop may be running in that groove and not picking up enough oil. So we reversed the big end bolts so the oil scoop has clear access to the oil. Probably worrying about nothing. Cheers, Andrew.
  13. Paul, That is not bungee cord actually but something we in my part of Australia call "Paramatta Rope". It is woven blue and yellow rope with Blue and Yellow being the colours of the Paramatta Rugby League Club (Rugby League being a very popular sport on the eastern parts of Australia) - hence the name. It is very strong rope and while I would never advocate towing that load with only one or two points tied down, I would wager you could tow that a fair distance and it would never come off. Bernie, I have been silently following many of your restorations on this forum and am looking forward to seeing you to go to work on the Triumph! Cheers, Andrew.
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