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About 1912Minerva

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  • Birthday 10/17/1972

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  1. Our 1911 Torpedo bodied Model 20 at the National Veteran Car Rally in Bundaberg a few weeks ago. Cheers
  2. Thanks for your advice Tinindian - appreciated. Regards, Andrew.
  3. Hi All, Just wondering what people thought was a good cylinder compression reading (PSI) for a Model 20. I am getting 55 PSI on 1,2 & 3 and 25 on No.4. Obviously there is a problem with 4. I did a leak down test and it looks like rings are not seating. Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers, Andrew.
  4. Thanks for the photos Simon, that's given me some ideas. I have glued an oil seal outside the block and machined a small section of the flywheel away so that if fits with over the seal with some clearance as it spins. This seems to be working at the moment.
  5. Yes, I think the back should be solid. I found I was getting a lot of oil leaking from there until I started filling the crank case to what I now think is the correct level. ie I was overfilling the crankcase. Simon - does your car leak oil where the crankshaft comes out of the front of the engine where the flywheel is? Cheers, Andrew.
  6. Congrats Buzz! Looks like a really nice car. I love the monocle windscreen. I think the Hup 20 compares pretty favourably with the Ford Model T (I've owned both). There is some good knowledge on this forum so if you have any questions when you start playing with it, someone should be able to help you out! Regards, Andrew.
  7. Hi Simon and David, Here are some photos I obtained from this forum when I was having a problem with my gearbox/clutch. My engine would slow down and stall when the clutch was depressed and on pull down, I found the thrust washers were missing. With the help of this forum, i had washers made up and now things work pretty well. Cheers, Andrew.
  8. Well done Phil - your car looks great! Did you have any issues with oil leaks? I find my Hup changes back to Low quite nicely using double clutching. Cheers, Andrew.
  9. Thanks Phil, David and Ken, I need to drop the top of my petcock tube a bit more to get exactly 3/4 inch. Looking at the diagram Ken, the top of the petcock tube is exactly in line with where the top of the oil scoop (bottom of big end) would be at the bottom of the stroke. It is interesting that the end of the big end bolt and nut "blocks" the oil scoop. When putting my motor together we thought about that and worried that the bolt would form a "groove" in the oil and the immediately following oil scoop may be running in that groove and not picking up enough oil. So we reversed the big end bolts so the oil scoop has clear access to the oil. Probably worrying about nothing. Cheers, Andrew.
  10. Paul, That is not bungee cord actually but something we in my part of Australia call "Paramatta Rope". It is woven blue and yellow rope with Blue and Yellow being the colours of the Paramatta Rugby League Club (Rugby League being a very popular sport on the eastern parts of Australia) - hence the name. It is very strong rope and while I would never advocate towing that load with only one or two points tied down, I would wager you could tow that a fair distance and it would never come off. Bernie, I have been silently following many of your restorations on this forum and am looking forward to seeing you to go to work on the Triumph! Cheers, Andrew.
  11. Hi All, In between outings with the Hup Model 20 (only displays with minimal driving so far), I have been investigating the propensity of the car to throw so much oil out of the front of the crankcase so readily. While I understand that these cars have a tendency to do this, mine seems to take things to the extreme! I took the camshaft plate / cover off the side of the crankcase to see what actual oil levels I had at the top of the petcock tubes. This was an interesting exercise that I should have done earlier. I found that the top of the petcock tubes were quite high in relation to the throw of the crankshaft and I suspect that the big ends were dragging through quite a bit of oil contributing to my problem and also probably causing some drag on the crankshaft as it made it's way through the oil bath. The other interesting thing I discovered is that the capacity of the front crankcase compartment is much smaller than the rear crankcase compartment. ie. adding the same quantity in each will not result in the same level. The rear compartment has extra space under the crankshaft output. I dropped the level of my petcock tubes by adding spacers where they screw into the bottom of the crankcase. This is an easy way of adjusting the height of the tubes inside the crankcase without making any irreversible cuts. I then jacked the car up as high as I could (to simulate going uphill) and checked to make sure the big ends would still scoop oil. In case any one is interested, I have included some photos. In one you can see the void under the camshaft drive gear which results in more oil being required in the rear compartment. Any thoughts or comments certainly appreciated. Cheers, Andrew/
  12. Yes, in my experience with the Hup 20, to try and drive with your hands on the wheel as shown in that beautiful poster is asking for trouble....lots of trouble!
  13. Hi Everyone, I thought some here might be interested in some pics of my Minerva engine when I had it apart recently (and one of engine in the car). Regards to all. Andrew.
  14. Hi All, I too was very sorry to learn of Edgar's passing. He was enthusiastic and very supportive when I obtained my Hupmobile and provided information and advice. I am attaching a couple of low res pics that Edgar sent me of the trip he did in his Model 20 from Gympie to Sydney and return (for non Australian's that is a considerable distance) - I suspect he sent them to me by way of encouragement as to the potential reliability and drive-ability of these vehicles ( I love all his luggage strapped to the fender / mudguard!). RIP Edgar and condolences to his friends and family. Regards to all, Andrew.