KenHupp20

I'd be pretty tempted to leave it in also. Be real careful with the pistons hangin' there , you don't want to ding the bottom of them. Ken

We drove Mary's Mini Moke to the beach the other day. Fun ride ! Ken

Yup, got my land legs back David. Nice you got a break in the weather. Ken

A couple of pic of an original for you .

Nice ride ! Always nice gettin' back to the barn on your own. Ken

Good tips , thank you Edgar. Are you "on the road" now or still getting it together ? Ken

Posting photos is a bit of a challenge alright ! Here is what it will look like. The only difference is the race in this photo is a ball race. The pencil shows about where to drill if you need to tap the race off( three holes). Hope that helps. Ken

The other method is to drive out the bronze "T" bushing then drill three holes thu the casting so you can use a drift to tap the race off from the inside.Similar to the three holes in the differential housing to drive out the outter race. Still using heat if you need to. Some info from McMaster -CArr McMaster-Carr if you're interested.

I guess one of those stars was my lucky one , It wasn't the Hupp ,or even my car . Ya never know.

A group of us were sitting around the camp fire last week end.A nice quiet night, no wind , looking at the stars. Then we heard a loud THUD ! Ouch ! Poked right into the dash too.

Hi Phil, I would start by determining if the Hyatt type roller bearing you have ( and the races ) are serviciable. If they are a trip to a bearing shop and they will find you a thrust bearing. I'd stay with a roller type,but give it a bit looser fit, not tight on the axle or tight in the inner race. They will likely measure the old rollers and get you matched up. You may need some shims behind the outer race in the final fitting. Let me know ,I've got a box of 'em. Might as well check the fit of the bevel gears in the bronze bushings. I've got a couple of those too . If the Hyatt is no good then the tapered, but I'd stick with the original if it were me . Ken

I was told years ago that the additive for the clutches was whale oil. Of course they had to stop in the late 60's or erly 70's. Was that a true story ? Ken

Looks like you have model T hub caps ? Different threads . Welcome to the discussion Ken

I too look forward to reading your post every day just as I did with your last project. Tomorrow is a new day. I do hope to look in and see how you are doing.And thank you for taking the time for all of your posting. Ken

Yes, leave them alone if you can . Expensive machine shop work. Ken

If it is installed with bolts you might be able to back them out. I had studs, a bit more of a problem. That means you back the oil box out cut off the studs so you can lift out the oil box,then you have to deal with the studs. Likely a trip to your favorite machinist. You might also want to get a stud tool. If I remember right there was another thread on the subject.I'm sure there are several options here .You might also want to look at pulling the steering wheel and drop the column out that way,then remove the oil box. If your studs are reusable you don't want to mess them up !$$! If you are already looking at the pinion I would definitly get it off then take out the steering column that way. Ken

Hi, I just looked at a spare pinion gear ,the hole is straight. Check the I.D. of the cap, I think the pin would be captive anyway. Drill , dremel or file away the mushroom and it should tap right out. If the peening over is proud ( high) I would file first,then you can find center better. Hope that helps , Ken

Hi Phil, Here are some photos of the lower portion of the manifold. With the plug in place for cold weather air is drawn in at the top opening and comes down the side of the manifold next to the engine into the carb. With the plug removed air is drawn in the bottom.Note the weep hole( ?) near the bottom. As to the small hole with the plug ? I don't think it something Hupp did , shade tree mechanic long time ago ? Plug a casting flaw ? Hope that helps, Ken

Hi Phil, Progress ! AS David Coco says restoration in 2000 small jobs. I wonder if the "carrier" portion of that bearing being tight led to it's failure ? Ken

Hi Andrew,I'm glad you found the drawing helpful. You mentioned getting brass caps made, I'm curious how they are made. Are they machined from solid? Karl, I too have a set of the "Aluminum style" cast in brass. Didn't know there were any others out there. I assume they are a reproduction? Not sure about the Chiefs or Brumbies...........Go New England Patriots ! Ken

I don't know how to link to it ,but you might search for "saving the engraving" in the forum search box. Also a while back someone posted very nice work of restoring engraving on brass headlamps. Hope that helps, Ken

Hi Andrew, This drawing might be helpful. I think the big question is brass or aluminum ? Edgar ? It seems most of the period advertisements show the Torpedo with aluminum. The brass might be rather difficult to reproduce, I believe it was stamped to get the hex,then turned from the hex down(?). The aluminum would have been cast (?) . good luck , Ken

Hi Phil, I think if you take the diff apart ( good idea to check it out anyway) you'll have a good chance of tapping it out from the inside. I think those id's are pretty close to the same size ,but you should be able to get a bite somehow. As far as the races go ,if you decide to remove them, I think you 'll need to drill three holes from the back side ( 120 degrees apart) to "drift" it off the diff. half. good luck ,Ken

Phil, have you found any numbers on the thrust bearings ? I think I would visit a bearing specialty shop with what you have . Will the outer race come out of the housing O.K. ? You might need that to check clearence. By the way have you checked the bronze "T " Bushings inside the diff housing ? Ken

Hi Phil, If the Hyatt type roller bearing you have there is still good, maybe just replace the thrust bearing? Ken