jdome

Oscar Meyer Weinermobile.

I think Ford had 2 model A's. I believe the first 1903 and 04 production cars were also model A.

Notice the white wall tires.

The 39 Continentals weren't "Continentals" either. They were Zephers. Ford didn't use the "Continental" name until either 40 or 41. The V12 is a little under powered for the cars but the engine and mechanicals are very reliable as long as you don't lug the engine. You do have to down shift to avoid over-stressing the motor. The later V12 's with the overdrive are good 60-70 MPH hiway touring cars as long as you don't push them too hard to get there.

$35 won't buy much there today. What do you think you would pay for those radiators now? I doubt $350 would buy them today. I remember the year blue field flooded. It was half way up some cars that were left in the field. The first year I went was about 71 or 72. I went with a long time vender and we stayed in a basement of a house across the street from blue field. There was about a dozen people who stayed there for about $10 per night and the couple that owned the house made pancakes & eggs for breakfast too.

Is this a car radio or is it a portable boom box type of radio? You may have to install some modern resistor plugs & wires and some radio frequency capacitors on the coil and dist. to get rid of it but even that is no guarentee.

I bring my wife. If the car breaks down she can get out and push me off the road.

Another thing. You say taht it works better if you move the antenna away from the radio? Is that also because you are moving the antenna away from the engine bay?

I thought you just had a CD player. You are receiving EMI, Electromagnetic Interference from either the coil (on the firewall), distributor, spark plugs, plug wires or all of the above. Does the unit work OK with a CD? You are most likely picking it up through the antenna but it is possible to get it from the speaker wires or power wire too. Try grounding the antenna mount to the car and also grounding the - of your 12v radio battery to ground. It won't cause any problems with the car's electrical system (either + or - ground) as long as both hot sides are isolated from each other. Making a common ground might help. It might also help to run a good heavy ground wire from the hood to ground. That might help shield some of the under hood interference from getting to the antenna. Long parallel power lines to the radio/CD player can also act like an induction coil (EMI antenna) so I would also suggest using a twisted pair wire for your power run and/or make the power line as short as possible. Twisted speaker wire is also better than parallel cord in this case too.

I can't answer that except to say that the plate you have may not belong to your car. Cadillac sometimes used the same data plate for 2 or more years before updating the plate. I believe that 29 was about the last year they used a plate with all the patent dates. Maybe someone on the forum with a late 20's Cadillac can tell you what the newest patent date is on their plate.

The patent dates indicate that the plate could be for a 24 but the engine number is in the 29 range, 320,000 - 499,999.

There aren't many (modern) add-ons he can use if it is a positive ground conversion as he indicates in his original post.

I like her answer. I never thought of it that way before but she makes sense.

I think I have seen that body style before on an obscure 30's British make like Alvis?

I don't know if you are joking, but when I was in high school in the late 60's my buddy's grandparants had a Electolux vacuum cleaner store. Electrolux had a spray paint attachment that worked off the outlet of their canister vacuums. It was the first HVLP type spray gun. My buddy and his dad sprayed a couple cars with their Electrolux vacuum cleaner that came out pretty good. They would always put in a fresh bag to filter the air. His dad would paint and my buddy would follow him around the car carrying the vacuum because they only had about 10 ft of hose to work with.

I always seem to get the experts that know more about my cars than I do. I once owned a 39 LaSalle that some guy at a show tried to convience me that someone swapped the engine because LaSalles came with straight 12 engines. That's why the long, narrow hood.

Is that a corvette in the middle of that? I can't believe these cars with 2 front axles would turn or corner very well?

I see Keiser beat me to it. I type too slow.

I remember seeing the car in #2 but can't place it. Steve McQueen had a few Dodges like that pop up in his rear view mirror in "Bullit" but I think they were all dark in color. #3 - Chich & Chong, "Up in Smoke" #4 - 49 Buick, "Rain Man" #5 - Dick (or his brother) Van Dyke and his lovely mother in "My Mother The Car" (you can just see her red steering wheel) I was a yuongster when this show was on TV and it influenced my interest in antique cars. #6 - And who can forget the name of the quirky ND town this series is named after? Me. #7 _ I've seen this movie too but don't remember the name. "Get Shorty" ???? #8 - Al Paccino and his love interest behind him, "Taxi Driver" #9 - The used-up police car with the loud speaker on the roof, a full tank of gas and a pack of Lucky's - "Blues Brothers" #10 - Brady Bunch

1st one I think is "Peggy Sue", The Jeep is Gomer Pile MC, Bronco is Green Acres, Mustang is Married with Children, The VW beetle is obviously Herman "Munsters", The buffer is Steve Martin in "The Jerk", The 2 men in the convert. I believe is "Its a Mad Mad World", VW Bus is "High Times at Ridgemount High", and the 2 boys in front of the Ajax truck looks like "Dennis the Mennis". I know I have seen the Darnell's Auto Wrecking scene but I can't remember the movie. Was Jamie Lee Curtis in that movie? 9 out of 10 ain't bad?

I don't mind questionable questions, especially from young people. That's how they learn. Two years ago I had one of my brass cars at a local show that usually doesn't attract many early cars. My car has a "Prest-O-Lite" tank on the side and a teenager asked if I put a nitro tank on the car so I could keep up with traffic. I explained that it holds acetylene gas for the head lights and showed him how it is piped to the lights and how you have open the lens and light them with a match. Then he tells me he didn't know they invented cars before electricty.

They are neither swans or ducks. Cadillac referred to them as "merlettes" in advertisements. But you are correct about the change in the look. Cadillac began using the crest when they started production in 1903 and the crest had merlettes with prominent chests and swan-like necks until 1920. From 1920 on they look like duckies. There is a year or two since, like 1929 that the swan look returned. The Cadillac crest was modernized almost every year. You can tell the year of the emblem if you know what details to look for.

Why is it listed as a 30 Ford with all the 36 parts?

I assume you have dim lights on battery only too? You have developed a series resistive voltage drop somewhere between the battery and your lights. If you have a volt meter and know how to use it you can find it. The resistance is likely caused by corrosion and is low, perhaps an ohm or less so you will have to trace it under load. Turn your lights on and measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the lights on. It should be 12 to 13.8 volts, depending on how new the battery is. Now measure the voltage across a headlight bulb. Pull the socket out enough to get your test probe on the terminal but keep the bulb lit. You can either measure across the filiment terminals or hot to a good ground. The bulbs are parallel across the battery so if the circuit is good, you should read the same voltage as you measured across the battery. If you can tell that your headlights are dim, you will likely measure more than a volt less. That means there is some resistance in series somewhere. Even if all your head & tail lights are dim, it is possible that all your sockets are coroded and need cleaning. I suggest cleaning at least 1 socket to see if that bulb brightens up. Next go to the head light switch, connect your meter to a good ground and measure the voltage (lights on) on the input and output of the switch. If you have hi voltage on the battery side and lo volts on the light side: your switch contacts are corroded. The rheostat is in the dash light circuit and has no effect on the headlights. If The voltage drop is on the battery terminal too the switch is not your problem. Move on to your next set of contacts or connections (ign switch, fuse block) towards the battery and compare the voltage going in to the device and voltage out, until you find the device where the battery side reads the battery voltage and the output voltage drops. Keep in mind that fuse holders can corrode and fuses and circuit breakers can develope resistance too, (it's a fluke) and sometimes you will only be able to read the resistance as a voltage drop across the fuse/breaker under load.

I have a Remy model RL coil with the bat/mag switch attached for through dash mounting. These were used on some Buick, Oakland and other makes of the 1911 era. I don't know if it is correct for your Kissel.