jdome

I have a Remy model RL coil with the bat/mag switch attached for through dash mounting. These were used on some Buick, Oakland and other makes of the 1911 era. I don't know if it is correct for your Kissel.

There is no way to make modern bolts look like brass era bolts. The cross section of pre-20's hex is 1/16 or 1/8 wider and about twice as tall as a modern head. A mix of old and modern fasteners stand out like a sore thumb. You can buy original style, thick head bolts from Restoration Supply but be prepaired to pay $2 - $6 per bolt, depending on size. I turn my own from hex stock. You should check the on-line catalog of McMaster-Carr, industrial supply. They do not sell the thick head bolts but they sell what they list as "Heavy Nuts" which are the correct oversized nuts. You can buy a box of 100 - 3/8 for about $8. They sell other hardware, tools, and od size taps & dies that you might need. The original bolts had some type of blackened finish. I haven't tried the linseed oil trick but I have tried the Eastwood Kit but was not satisified with the results. A coat of flat black paint is a better substitution. I'm working on a brass car now and I'm sandblasting the bolts and painting them with flat black, high temp. manifold paint. It sprays on thin and doesn't require primer. Per instructions on the can, after the paint air dries, I bake them in an old toaster oven to cure/harden the paint. The baked on paint holds up to wrenching without chiping. It is against my religion to use stainless steel hardware on my brass cars, so I'm always looking for old style steel fasteners. The old style round head, slotted, machine screws with real round heads are getting hard to find these days too. You'll find a lot of these in #10, #12, 1/4" and sometimes 3/8" on most brass cars.

A good trick for adjusting updrafts is to hook a vacuum gauge to the manifold where the wipers get their vacuum. Make sure to block off any other vacuum outlets or mechanical vacuum boosters. Make sure the choke is completely off. Run the engine at a fast idle and adjust the needle for maximum vacuum. That may be on the slightly lean side so if it backfires on the test drive, turn it about 1/4 turn richer.

Have you asked this question on REO forums or contacted any long time REO owners? Some cleaver hobbiest/machinest has figured out how to machine the spindles and hubs of most all popular 1 & 2-Cyl cars to convert to modern, off the shelf (cheaper & better) tappered bearings.

The Futurliner looks big by itself but parked next to a current Gray Hound they look noticeably smaller. The dimensions of a Gray Hound are only slightly larger but the fact that it is squarer makes it look even larger.

There is supposed to be a safety on the pump to not do that. If the handle is open when you turn on the pump the fuel should not pump out until you release the handle and squeeze it again. You should have reported it to the station.

A friend of mine uses a 1/2" cordless drill to start his 1-cyl Car. I'm not sure it would have enough torque to crank a typical 25+HP 4-cylinder though. I have some teens era accessory catalogs that show some aftermarket electric motors that were available back then. The motors mounted on the frame horns with a shaft inserted into the crank hole. There was also a starter available that had a coil spring in it. It is about the size of a motor and also made to mount in front of the crank hole. You wound the coil up tight and then released it to turn the engine over. That would probably be a strong coil and I would guess that it took as much strength to wind the coil as it took to crank the engine.

If you have a piece of at least 20ga copper sheet you can clamp behind the joint, that will help prevent burn thru. You may also try turning the voltage/heat and or speed down a notch.

Love the rocket assist booster on the back.

There are different #6's. Does it have "Centinol" or "Paragon" printed on the top. I need a #5 or #6 Lunkenheimer Paragon with the check ball on the bottom.

I believe it is CMC for "Cadillac Motorcar Company" which was the company name at that time.

Using 2 - 6v batteries and 12v generator will "work" but it is a bad idea. You will have constant battery problems. The battery with all the 6v loads will always be undercharged and the other battery will overcharge and the acid will bubble out. Both conditions will shorten the lives of both batteries. You will also have low voltage starting issues, especially if the starter is on the undercharged battery. You might check out Vintage Air. I believe they have complete AC systems and individual components for both 6 and 12 volts.

Mike, I'm sure others are as curious as me. What does it fit or what project are you using it for? I suspect it is 1911-12-maybe 15 truck or tractor?

[quote name=ted sweet; 90+% of the rods being built are kits and /or made from reproduction parts' date=' very few are being made from rare or valuable antiques. Where did that statistic come from and how accurate is your "scientific" opinion????

Quick-Poly epoxy will withstand ethanol but tends to weight the cork down. R/C model airplane dope will work and is lighter.

Interior door handles, window cranks & dash trim of 1942 Continentals were all gold plated.

Your problem is that you don't have the rubber snubbers. The center of the full wheel hubcaps clip onto the metal clips near the lug nuts. The outer edge of the cap should have the rubber blocks that push the outer edge equal distant from the bead of the rim and they prevent the wobble. Lynn Steele has them listed, but you might check with All Cads. You need 5 per hub cap.

Are these the small standard caps or the full wheel delux type? If they are the full wheel caps there should be 5 rubber snubbers on the outer edge. Without the rubber snubbers they may not fit on properly.

Of course there are lots of songs about Volvos in Sweden. Drugs are legal there, which explains a lot.

The new mag reinforces my belief that I am not an auto enthusiast. I am an antique car hobbyest. Not that there is anything wrong with being an auto enthusiast, it is just not my interest. They seem to have tried to consolidate multiple niche publications into one new niche. There is not enough of my area of interest in the new publication to intice me to subscribe.

Didn't Dodge make a roadster version of the Viper with out roll up windows a couple years ago?

It looks like it could be an 11 Cadillac demi tonneau that some one added the running board jump seats. The hood, cowl and windshield look like it. The body looks like it. Hub caps look like Cadillac, but the fenders look close but not quite correct at the running board. The Radiator looks like 11 Cadillac but the radiator emblem doesn't belong there. What would be the clincher is the fact that the Cadillac chassis side rails dip down about 3" or 4" at the rear door but the seat is in the way and I can't see the frame. I would not rule out Cadillac with some modifications. ????

I think it may be more of a matter of who is producing/directing the broadcast, and they are not often car people. I've driven an antique car in the National Pro Football HOF Parade. They have about 100 collector cars from brass through 70's, both original and hot rod. A car friend of mine is in charge of choosing the cars and groups them by typical car show classes of 3 -6 cars per group and he inserts a group of cars after every couple of floats and marching bands. The parade is televised and often rebroadcast on reagional TV. I try to watch trhe rebroadcast to see myself but sure enough, they always go to commercials when the cars come up and don't show them when they resume program. It doesn't matter which group of cars, most of them are cut out. About the only group of cars they show are the big vintage trucks, and the late model convertibles WITH the beauty queens ridding on the deck. go figure?

Red neck power window

Cadillac came out with what they called tilt beam in 1915 which was a mechanical tilting with a lever on the steering column. This was their idea of high / low beam. The lens rings of the lights you have should be nickel plated and the buckets were painted black. I believe they used the mechanical tilt until they switched to 2 bulbs about 1919.