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Trickle charge battery with cables on?


Summershandy

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I'm curious if anyone else might be doing this. I bought a decent 6 volt smart charger and have periodically hooked it up to my battery while working on the car over the winter. Now that it's all back together, I was wondering if I could just hook the charger up to the other ends of the cables. The ground on the block and at the starter connection. The reason I ask is I have a battery hold down cover that is bolted down and also have covers on the battery connections. PITA to remove these on a regular basis. I have ALWAYS charged batteries disconnected. Just doesn't sound right to me! 

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As long as you don’t have any excessive current draw from an accessory like a clock you should be ok.  A trickle charger only sends a small charging current to the battery.  It’s common on motorcycles to do what you suggest, I used a trickle charger with external connection to the battery for years on my motorcycles.

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I do have a clock and that's where the drain is. My smart charger is a little more than a trickle. I too need to keep a battery tender on my motorcycle with external connections as well during the summer. Guess my concern is any effects on the starter and wiring. Thanks.

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I keep many of the cars here in our shop on Battery Tenders and for those with difficult-to-reach batteries, we install the pigtails that usually come with the Battery Tender unit--they're about 15 inches long and attach to the battery terminal bolts. Then the pigtail can be routed anywhere you like and you can just connect the tender when you park the car. For example, the battery in my '29 Cadillac is in one of the side tool boxes and the paint was getting chewed up with me going in and out all the time to connect and disconnect the battery. So I installed a cut-off switch on the side of the box on the underside of the car where I could reach it but didn't have to open the box. I also ran a pigtail out the side of the box so I can just connect the Battery Tender there without opening the box. The one on Melanie's Mustang peeks out next to one of the front fog lights in the grille and the one on my '41 Buick is accessible through one of the passenger-side hood vents. All virtually invisible but easy to reach without going into the car. Pull in, park, hook up the tender and it's ready to go next time. A Battery Tender should be able to keep up with the clock's draining the battery and it will always be ready to drive.

 

I've had good luck with the Battery Tenders (we have about 30 of them here in the shop) and they do seem to keep healthy batteries fully charged. They won't bring a bad battery back from the dead and sick batteries can sometimes fool the tender into thinking it has a full charge. I'm also not convinced that disconnecting a battery and adding a tender is any better than just disconnecting it--we have about the same failure rate regardless of whether a tender was used. But for cars that are used often enough to not need the battery disconnected for long-term storage, the tender is a good choice that will keep it topped off for the next drive. 

 

Hope this helps!

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16 minutes ago, JACK M said:

We put these on the rear deck of the race cars so we can charge between heats. But you can put them anywhere.

No charging system on most of our cars.

 

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Remote-Mount-Battery-Terminal-Studs,1116.html

 

I LOVE it when people put those on their cars--makes life so much easier, especially on cars where they hide the batteries in inaccessible places like under the bed of a pickup or buried under the custom upholstery in a trunk.

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Now that Jack mentioned, I owned a 2000 Chrysler Concorde who's battery was in the fender well totally inaccessible. Chrysler had installed posts easily accessed in case of needing a boost or charge I guess. I used those posts with a solar charger, after going away for a month to find out when I got home my battery was dead. That car was full of ghosts.....

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You can connect anywhere that connects to the battery. There are chargers that plug into the cigarette lighter, if it is "on" all the time this is as good a place as any for a trickle charger although the wiring is not big enough for a boost.

 

I habitually connect the charger + to the battery then ground the - to the motor or body well away from the battery.

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2 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

I habitually connect the charger + to the battery then ground the - to the motor or body well away from the battery.

That is the same way you should boost a battery.  Prevents blowing a battery up and maybe blinding yourself or someone else.

With my under the floor battery that is grounded to a starter mounting bolt and the positive cable to the switch on the starter all connecting for trickle charging or a boost (I have never been boosted but have boosted others) it is all done under the hood and away from any danger.

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I have a battery in the back, under the spare wheel, so access is poor. I ran a fused lead from the battery poles to a 4x4 type weatherproof socket under the rear licence plate, for my trickle charger. If I open the battery isolator to work on the car's electrics, the charger stays connected, but the car is safe to work on.

jp 26 Rover 9

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Hard wire a pig tail so access is easy. Remember to account for polarity and if an exposed connector contact might come in contact with the ground and short. I use MOLEX brand connectors with chassis mount version mounted in a bracket behind the dash. https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=econolatch&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=wire_to_wire_connectors

Adopt a convention something like the pointed end is positive. Include a short pigtail to interface between Battery Tender molded connector to the MOLEX. All my vehicles are wired this way, so one charger can be used for any vehicle.

Edited by Friartuck (see edit history)
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