jp928

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About jp928

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  1. I believe these had 73mm bores, and rings this dia seem common. These people should be able to help https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/FindParts/Families Many cars used this bore (eg 1275cc Mini) - get your specs as to compression height, wrist pin size, and start searching for equivalents. jp 26 Rover 9
  2. Yes, always like steel rims like these! About the only issue we have had with our 92 NA6 is the CAS(crank angle sensor) on the back of the camshaft - at 140k kms it starts failing when really hot. Mostly recovers after 10-15minutes to cool down. Curiously the NA8 version, on the other camshaft, with different internals, is also prone to fail at around the same mileage. Down here we can get aftermarket refurbished units, so you should be able to avoid paying stealership prices. jp 26 Rover 9, 83 Porsche 928, 92 NA6 MX-5
  3. Wow, another Marriner Blue! We had one in Saudi in the late 90s! Actually was originally a white California car somebody imported, then drove into the ground - layshaft noisy as , hand painted with spray cans, cracked wheels that leaked etc. We replaced the gearbox, had it painted Marriner Blue, replaced the wheels. Great little car. Wife secretly drove in thinly populated areas (not legal for women to drive there then). When we came home to Oz I found that it was uneconomic to convert LHD to RHD, as that involved replacing a big part of the firewall. Main downside of the early NA6 engine was the short nose crank and damage to the harmonic keyway leading to loss of timing. Good Luck! jp 26 Rover 9 94 Miata
  4. Also have a 6V system on the 26 Rover 9. Initially I also saw wild readings with a DVM on the generator output, up to 10V, but after cleaning the cutout points the readings became stable and sensible, so I question the idea that DVM are not usable on mechanical point systems. Its only a cheap DVM, nothing fancy. jp 26 Rover 9
  5. Actually worked on a RR once! Was in a brake workshop for a year, and was surprised to be assigned to work on a drum braked example. Brakes were twin trailing shoe Girling , IIRC 11" dia x 3" wide. Immune to fading because of their design. All of the openings in the chassis frame were closed by cover plates, and were designed so you couldnt put one back in the wrong place. The brake booster was a shaft driven off the rear of the gearbox, with a clutch faced disk - when you pushed the brake pedal it wound a plate into the disk and helped pull the brakes on. Best part was that if the rear wheels locked up, you lost boost! This one needed a little adjustment to make up for wear - easy as! jp 26 Rover 9
  6. Asbestos is a VERY dirty word in many places now . Some recent Chinese imports into Australia were recently found to have asbestos in the exhaust gaskets - banned immediately. If you privately import ANY car into Australia now you have to prove it has no asbestos in it, or THEY will tear it apart at your cost to check. jp 26 Rover 9
  7. Make sure you observe the coil polarity! Some are sensitive to it. jp 26 Rover 9
  8. jp928

    My L-37 straight 8

    Fill the block up to the head joint with hottest water you can, sit for a while, drain, try again. Got the head off an Alfa once doing this. Check all cylinders for compression - if you find one, put , say a 1/2 pint of light oil in , install the plug, and turn it over - compression might start lifting the head. Make sure you do have all the bolts out! jp 26 Rover 9
  9. Slightly off topic....friend with a red Mazda2 - wife dinged a door fatally. Went to Pullapart (Pickapart here in Oz), found a cheap door, but only in blue. Cheap so it will have to do, worry about painting it later. Within a week he saw another Mazda2 - blue, but with a Red door in the same position ! Managed to catch the owner, who readily agreed to a swap , if he did the work. Easy - 2 happy drivers. jp 26 Rover 9
  10. Friend of mine had a similar problem when he inherited a car - inpsection highlighted a discrepancy caused by original selling dealer. Had it inspected at DMV who verified ownership since new and original plates, and fixed the paperwork. Research shows your chassis no should look like 112023-10-00nnnn, Engine no. 189-986-12-nnnnn, where 112023 is the model code, 1890986 is the engine series code. Chassis no stamped on right front frame rail, as well as on radiator support. Note that there were NO VIN before 1980, before that just maker's chassis , engine and sometimes body numbers. jp 26 Rover 9.
  11. I run zero nitromethane in 2 strokes so in my case its unlikely nitro was involved. A test would seem in order before committing much $ or effort. jp 26 Rover 9
  12. Dont forget you can assess the mixture with the lifting pin - up 1/32" - if rpm goes up and stays up - rich; if rpm fall, tends to die - lean; if rpm rise a bit then come back - good mixture. Looking very good, great work. It can be very hard to know what to expect from an unknown car model - only real way is to get a ride in another example that is rated as a good sample. By 'up 1/32' I mean after you feel the pin contact the piston, not just move the pin! Hope that makes sense. You are up early, or is it late ? jp 26 Rover 9
  13. Looking very good! Body work adds some character! Based on previous experience with Rover IOE (or F head) valves and trying to set side exhaust valve clearances while hot, we developed correct cold settings to make life easier. IIRC, where the hot figures were , say .008 inlet and .012 exhaust, cold figures were .003 in and .007 ex. Once you get a quiet hot setting, measure and record the cold figures, remembering to load the push rod end of the rocker to push the oil cushion out. jp 26 Rover 9
  14. Yes, heavy duty. Lots of amps on 6V systems, so quality is important. I have had an ordinary isolation switch on a high CR V8 for years now, with no issues, and it cranks the same as before the switch. jp 26 Rover 9