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Larger starter-generator needed


alsfarms

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On ‎3‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 10:18 PM, alsfarms said:

Who knows, what makes used the single unit "starter/generator"  ?

Al

 

My '15 Buick uses one by Delco.

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Thanks for your response to my inquiry on starter/generators.  What size is your Buick?  Is the starter/generator the same as what is found on the 20's Dodge Bros. cars?  Do you happen to have a spare or know of a Buick guy that may have a spare starter/generator?

Thanks,

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The Dodge SG unit is 12 volt.  The Buick unit is 6 volt.  They are completely different animals.  The Dodge unit is round and is driven from the front of the engine.  The Buick unit is a square box that is driven off the water pump drive on the rear of the engine, with a 1 way clutch to engage the starter.  What are you trying to drive? 

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Hello Hugh,  I had the assumption that the Delco unit was also a 12 volt system.  That bit of information is a deal killer for me.  I was hoping that a Buick unit would have more starting torque but I do need 12 volts so I guess I will be working with the Dodge Bros. Starter/Generator.  Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Al

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Most of the brass guys use a Cub Cadet modern unit. It's a combo unit, solid state, very small, and can easily be hidden. The run a small 12 volt gel battery to operate the system. 

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I always thought that the Northeast Dodge S/G 12 volt would be a good add on starter for an early car, although it is quite heavy.

 

A good friend of mine was, shall we say, forced, by the person he worked for at the time, to put a starter on an IHC AutoBuggy.  He installed a NE S/G 12V (I'm really getting into all these abbreviations), and at times, the starter function wouldn't turn over the engine.  A piston would apparently get under partial compression and keep the starter from spinning.  And, this installation was by a guy who knows what he's doing.

 

My point is, you need to match the unit to the purpose, just as the engineers did when they designed it.  Sometimes you just can't slap it in because you think it might work.

 

A Cub Cadet unit with a belt drive is a good idea, as you don't have to cut any flywheels and such, the modification is reversible for the purist.

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Hello Ed,  I am sure the modern Delco system would work in some smaller CID applications, however, it does not have enough twist to handle much more than what it did originally.  It was used to start a 2 cylinder Onan or similar engine not a 200 to 300 CID engine.  I suppose if a gear reduction was used, that would help a lot which would slow down the starting RPM but would speed up the charging side, both could work.  I will chew on my own idea of gear reduction.  Thanks for taking the time to respond.  (I am back considering the use of a Dodge Bros. Starter/generator as it was designed for a 200 plus CID engine).

Al

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Hello Dave,  The Dodge starter/Generator has the ability to twist a Dodge engine of just more than 200 CID.  The little Delco unit from a garden tractor has less twist.  Any time we re-engineer at home, we try to match as best we can.  I was told of another home installer of the Dodge unit on a larger engine.  It was not used to fully start the car but as an assist for an aging owner who still wanted to crank start his car.  His installation allow for a pull switch under the radiator which would engage the starter while he twisted the crank.  He was able to keep enjoying his car for many more years with his starter assist installation.  The IHC had a big two cylinder engine so it would be a handful to twist over if the unit had to overcome compression right at the start.  Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts.

Al

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Yes, that's exactly what happened, if the starter came on while there was (long stroke) compression, it would bog down.

 

I'd be willing to bet the Dodge unit would spin my '10 Hupmobile quite easily, as I think a fly landing on the crank handle would move it.....

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The last time I saw the cub cadet set up it was placed on a Apperson Jackrabbit of 1913........and it started it fine. The early motors have little compression, I’m quite sure they have been installed many, many times. The units are very small, and rather inexpensive, even if they only last five years each, the cost of replacment would be negligible. The cadet motors are desiel, ask the guys on the HCCA site, I bet they have a bunch of insight. 

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Don't know if this will fit your needs or not but FYI 1915 thru 1918 Maxwell's use a Simms-Huff starter generator. Flywheel side has a gear which could be replaced with a pulley and the other end is a coupling for belt drive from fan. 1915 thru 1917 start on 12v and charge 6v while the 1918 version is 12v/12v.

 

Howard Dennis

1917 Maxwell 35.jpg

100_4255A.jpg

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Hello Howard,  What is the CID of the Maxwell engines that would be starter by this Starter/generator?  It looks like it could be driven from either end, which is a plus.  Have you run a Maxwell before?  How lazy is this starter/generator when it is trying to start the car?  I may be interested.

Al

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51 minutes ago, alsfarms said:

Hello Howard,  What is the CID of the Maxwell engines that would be starter by this Starter/generator?  It looks like it could be driven from either end, which is a plus.  Have you run a Maxwell before?  How lazy is this starter/generator when it is trying to start the car?  I may be interested.

Al

Don't hold me to it but if I remember correctly it's 186 cubic inches. I'll check later when I'm done doing my chores. My Maxwell came to me 10 years ago as a basket case with a motor completely rebuilt in the 1960's and it was probably set up by an old time mechanic who was used to "burning in" babbet bearings and it worried me as it was so tight I was sure I'd have to tow it to get it running. I had ALL I could do to rotate it with the crank but when the day came to first start it she spun over with no trouble at all.

 

Howard Dennis

Edited by hddennis (see edit history)
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