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Everything posted by ChuckR

  1. That looks like an Oakes lock. There should be a number stamped next to the slot. That number will tell a competent locksmith how to cut a new key. There are books full of the numbers. The keys are usually simple 4 pin Yale blanks.
  2. This question is mirrored on the FB Franklin site: How do the transmission lock balls fit in the case's cover? Are they facing the chamfered side of the guide rods? (So one would insert a lock ball,then the rods, then the second lock ball, again facing the chamfer on the second rod, then the plug. (I'm asking because, of course, I forgot to look when disassembling. Or is there some arrangement that works with the milled slot on the opposite side of the chamfer? I'm assuming these "lock" balls have nothing to do with the keyed locking system on the shifter. Does anyone have a Corbin F103 key or copy? Or know where to get one. Thanks in advance for any information.
  3. A lot depends upon what you want to spend. Ford Model T's are about the least expensive, with a vast supply of parts available. Check out your local Model T clubs. For other brands, go to the clubs. Often the club publications have listings for cars. Low production marques are he most difficult to work on, parts are generally not available and have to be made. But, when your project is complete, you have something unusual.
  4. Series 9, V-windshield brougham. I cannot see a port for either the horn or the clutch trunnion greaser, so my guess is that is is an early 9B. Not a common car. Someone more knowledgeable might have a better idea.
  5. Regarding the welded ear on your jug. I made a similar discovery on my 1906 Franklin. During the engine rebuilding it became apparent that the welding had knocked the jug off perpendicular from its base enough to cause excessive uneven wear on the piston, the rod bearing, the jug and eventual seizing of the piston. It is worth checking.
  6. Thanks, Paul. I found some instructions in a Burn's column in an early ACN.
  7. How do you adjust the truss rod on the rear axle of early Franklins properly? Wheels on the ground? Off the ground?
  8. Using the stretch plastic and a lot of clear tape rendered this cocoon surrounding our '06 Franklin on a trip from Seattle to Los Angeles. The first 100 miles required a few stops to repair or tape down sections which were either applied wrong (mostly overlapped in the wrong direction) or had broken loose. No problems afterwards.
  9. ChuckR

    1906G Flywheel

    Seeking this rare piece of unobtanium.
  10. Thanks for the suggestions. I now have list and plan of attack.
  11. Thanks, John. Tom is redoing the engine on this car as we speak. I was hoping to find someone local. Considering how much aerospace engineering was done here i SoCal, I'm surprised that there aren't dozens of competent machinists around. Age is apparently reducing the numbers.
  12. I'm looking for a machinist or shop in the Southern California area that can broach new keyways into the brake drums of an 1906 Franklin. The keyways are long, 4.25". Will also need to machine new (or recut the old ) keyseats for the Woodruff keys in the axles which is 1.125" diameter. Will likely have to mill new Woodruff keys also. The axles use two Woodruffs in a row to mate with the brake drums. The axles are not tapered. Any help is appreciated.
  13. I braced the engine from below and removed one cross-member. I used an open end wrench head adapted for 90 degree approach. Once the nuts were loose, they could come off by hand. The seizing was a blessing in disguise, the rod bearing was loose as hell and i likely could have had a major injury to the motor. Under the theory that if one is bad, the others are suspect, I think it is time for some serious engine work...sigh.
  14. After having the engine run, then slow and stop three times, I realized the '06G is likely seizing a piston. Pulling the auxiliary valves revealed that #4 piston (aluminum, not cast iron) was scored. The others are smooth. OK. The issue is how to remove #4 jug and get to the piston. It looks as if I have to drop the engine and flywheel off from the cross rails in order to reach the bolts. Or is it better to raise the engine, mount it on some kind of support, remove the cross rails and work it that way. Also, separating the clutch and transmission? Is there a practiced way to do that? Or brace up the engine from below, remove the cross rails and work at the jug. The last idea strikes me as best (simplest?) but I'm hoping to tap into more experience. The problem with the nuts holding down the jug are twofold. First, they require and open-end wrench to remove, they are too close to the jug's wall for a socket, and next that two of the bolts are next to the cross rail which limits open-end access. Any thoughts?
  15. ChuckR

    Book recommendations

    Add "The Franklin Automobile Company," by Sinclair Powell, 2nd Edition, available from the Club and Amazon.com.
  16. The slanted windshield makes it an early 9B, therefore somewhere around 1918-19, I think the horsecollar front was 1920. That only sets the earliest date for the picture, though.
  17. Just as an FYI, Franklin used 12v Dyneto starter/generators from the late teens thru the early 20s. They are large and heavy, but turned their 6 cylinder engines.
  18. The original carburetor is a Franklin Wilkinson design. You can find drawings on HHFC web site, in the members section. Search for Carburetor Group. One such drawing is #23172.
  19. Possibly the gas/air mixture is uneven and the hot cylinder is running lean?
  20. ChuckR

    S10 on Ebay

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1923-Other-Makes-G80-MAROON-AND-BLACK-/122561792630?hash=item1c89408a76:g:8-YAAOSwwvZZTHU0&vxp=mtr Don't know anything about it, but...
  21. I only use the fan for parades. Otherwise, the radiator is sufficient. I have not had a problem with the battery, I'm using a 6v Optima.
  22. My AB, which is in no way a proper Maxwell (it has a fuel pump and downdraft carburetor) is fitted with an electric fan just for parades, controlled by a simple switch. But my car is not a show car, but rather a car for show.
  23. I believe a "light" oil of the period is the equivalent of our 30W oils today. (Heavy oils were like steam oils (600W), etc.) You would vary the "light" oil you used by the season, thinner oils in the winter, heavier oils in the summer, back in the day.
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