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About ChuckR

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    Altadena, CA

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  1. Seeking this rare piece of unobtanium.
  2. Thanks for the suggestions. I now have list and plan of attack.
  3. Thanks, John. Tom is redoing the engine on this car as we speak. I was hoping to find someone local. Considering how much aerospace engineering was done here i SoCal, I'm surprised that there aren't dozens of competent machinists around. Age is apparently reducing the numbers.
  4. I'm looking for a machinist or shop in the Southern California area that can broach new keyways into the brake drums of an 1906 Franklin. The keyways are long, 4.25". Will also need to machine new (or recut the old ) keyseats for the Woodruff keys in the axles which is 1.125" diameter. Will likely have to mill new Woodruff keys also. The axles use two Woodruffs in a row to mate with the brake drums. The axles are not tapered. Any help is appreciated.
  5. I braced the engine from below and removed one cross-member. I used an open end wrench head adapted for 90 degree approach. Once the nuts were loose, they could come off by hand. The seizing was a blessing in disguise, the rod bearing was loose as hell and i likely could have had a major injury to the motor. Under the theory that if one is bad, the others are suspect, I think it is time for some serious engine work...sigh.
  6. After having the engine run, then slow and stop three times, I realized the '06G is likely seizing a piston. Pulling the auxiliary valves revealed that #4 piston (aluminum, not cast iron) was scored. The others are smooth. OK. The issue is how to remove #4 jug and get to the piston. It looks as if I have to drop the engine and flywheel off from the cross rails in order to reach the bolts. Or is it better to raise the engine, mount it on some kind of support, remove the cross rails and work it that way. Also, separating the clutch and transmission? Is there a practiced way to do that? Or brace up the engine from below, remove the cross rails and work at the jug. The last idea strikes me as best (simplest?) but I'm hoping to tap into more experience. The problem with the nuts holding down the jug are twofold. First, they require and open-end wrench to remove, they are too close to the jug's wall for a socket, and next that two of the bolts are next to the cross rail which limits open-end access. Any thoughts?
  7. Add "The Franklin Automobile Company," by Sinclair Powell, 2nd Edition, available from the Club and
  8. The slanted windshield makes it an early 9B, therefore somewhere around 1918-19, I think the horsecollar front was 1920. That only sets the earliest date for the picture, though.
  9. Just as an FYI, Franklin used 12v Dyneto starter/generators from the late teens thru the early 20s. They are large and heavy, but turned their 6 cylinder engines.
  10. The original carburetor is a Franklin Wilkinson design. You can find drawings on HHFC web site, in the members section. Search for Carburetor Group. One such drawing is #23172.
  11. ChuckR

    1907 LC Tourabout

    Possibly the gas/air mixture is uneven and the hot cylinder is running lean?
  12. Don't know anything about it, but...
  13. ChuckR

    1910 model AA

    I only use the fan for parades. Otherwise, the radiator is sufficient. I have not had a problem with the battery, I'm using a 6v Optima.
  14. ChuckR

    1910 model AA

    My AB, which is in no way a proper Maxwell (it has a fuel pump and downdraft carburetor) is fitted with an electric fan just for parades, controlled by a simple switch. But my car is not a show car, but rather a car for show.