ChuckR

That looks like an Oakes lock. There should be a number stamped next to the slot. That number will tell a competent locksmith how to cut a new key. There are books full of the numbers. The keys are usually simple 4 pin Yale blanks.

This question is mirrored on the FB Franklin site: How do the transmission lock balls fit in the case's cover? Are they facing the chamfered side of the guide rods? (So one would insert a lock ball,then the rods, then the second lock ball, again facing the chamfer on the second rod, then the plug. (I'm asking because, of course, I forgot to look when disassembling. Or is there some arrangement that works with the milled slot on the opposite side of the chamfer? I'm assuming these "lock" balls have nothing to do with the keyed locking system on the shifter. Does anyone have a Corbin F103 key or copy? Or know where to get one. Thanks in advance for any information.

A lot depends upon what you want to spend. Ford Model T's are about the least expensive, with a vast supply of parts available. Check out your local Model T clubs. For other brands, go to the clubs. Often the club publications have listings for cars. Low production marques are he most difficult to work on, parts are generally not available and have to be made. But, when your project is complete, you have something unusual.

Series 9, V-windshield brougham. I cannot see a port for either the horn or the clutch trunnion greaser, so my guess is that is is an early 9B. Not a common car. Someone more knowledgeable might have a better idea.

Yesterday to 91001

Regarding the welded ear on your jug. I made a similar discovery on my 1906 Franklin. During the engine rebuilding it became apparent that the welding had knocked the jug off perpendicular from its base enough to cause excessive uneven wear on the piston, the rod bearing, the jug and eventual seizing of the piston. It is worth checking.

Thanks, Paul. I found some instructions in a Burn's column in an early ACN.

How do you adjust the truss rod on the rear axle of early Franklins properly? Wheels on the ground? Off the ground?

Using the stretch plastic and a lot of clear tape rendered this cocoon surrounding our '06 Franklin on a trip from Seattle to Los Angeles. The first 100 miles required a few stops to repair or tape down sections which were either applied wrong (mostly overlapped in the wrong direction) or had broken loose. No problems afterwards.

Seeking this rare piece of unobtanium.

Thanks for the suggestions. I now have list and plan of attack.

Thanks, John. Tom is redoing the engine on this car as we speak. I was hoping to find someone local. Considering how much aerospace engineering was done here i SoCal, I'm surprised that there aren't dozens of competent machinists around. Age is apparently reducing the numbers.

Good idea, thx.

I'm looking for a machinist or shop in the Southern California area that can broach new keyways into the brake drums of an 1906 Franklin. The keyways are long, 4.25". Will also need to machine new (or recut the old ) keyseats for the Woodruff keys in the axles which is 1.125" diameter. Will likely have to mill new Woodruff keys also. The axles use two Woodruffs in a row to mate with the brake drums. The axles are not tapered. Any help is appreciated.

I braced the engine from below and removed one cross-member. I used an open end wrench head adapted for 90 degree approach. Once the nuts were loose, they could come off by hand. The seizing was a blessing in disguise, the rod bearing was loose as hell and i likely could have had a major injury to the motor. Under the theory that if one is bad, the others are suspect, I think it is time for some serious engine work...sigh.