bruffsup Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 For my 1934 Lagonda. I have just about ruled out powder coating . I have heard of some drawbacks . I am not trying to attain a Pebble Beach finish. If anyone would please comment from their experience I would appreciate it. I keep hearing the phrase "epoxy primer" I know this is a big topic. My goal is a finish that is chip resistant, will not allow rust to develop beneath and easy for an amateur to apply . Am I asking for a miracle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jan arnett (2) Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Barry I think you need to step back one step and answer the question "how do I prep the frame and am I going to strip all parts off" first. Proper preparation is as important a step as what you use. If you sand blast the frame and then prime properly barn paint will work. Another questions to ask is do I want to spray or brush, If you properly prepare the surface then a "epoxy primer" works well. I just did my moon this way using a epoxy primer from Southern Polly (SPI). Tractor Supply has a product from MAJIC that is a two part enamal that I have used on tractors with great success. Hirsch also has a similar product as does POR. POR requires a top coat to prevent fading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruffsup Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 I appreciate the advice and have had a recommendation from a local car restorer for a paint similar to POR that he says is very tough and easy to apply. I will complete the sandblasting of the frame rails and begin the process. Thanks very much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 The fact you disassembled the frame will make future problems much less severe as the rust that usually remains under connection points will be eliminated. Two part epoxy, POR with a protective top coat, or powder coating all work great. Nothing is totally bulletproof. You can get a very nice finish brushing POR, as it flows out very nicely. I had my frame blasted and powder coated for $400. The labor and paint savings were worth it to me, but I have done frames with wire-brush cleaning and paint that held up very well. If you're driving the car, you're going to be doing touchups from time to time no matter what. If you have to rivet the frame back together, you're going to ding up whatever finish you have on it. Remember that two part epoxy paints can kill you - always wear the correct respirator and skin protection. That's why I avoid them when I can - they are also quite expensive. Obviously, from all my rambling here, there is no "right" answer. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durant Mike Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 I've used Eastwood company Extreme Chassis Black which looks great and has a good hard finish. You can get it in ceramic too, but I use the Extreme Chassis Black gloss. It comes in quarts and cans and coupled with their primer creates a good hard finish. I'm 100% satisfied with my frame finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Blitz Black from John Deere. Its a flatter black and is hard as nails. (after a few weeks) And its inexpensive. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruffsup Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 here is what I decided on and I opted for the glossy thanks for all your input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewest Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 Im curious how was the frame originally fastened together? All the frames Ive worked on are hot riveted together ( the cross members to frame rails). Will you sandblast all the pieces, rivet the frame together and then finish ? The riveting causes damage to the primer and paints. When Ive had to disassemble and rivet I use acid etching primer first and then reassemble , them use the finish products . Im just curious what you were going to do. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruffsup Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 all the frame cross members are bolted in place! This model of Lagonda won LeMans in 1934 so it must have been OK ! The only riveting is at the ends of the frame rails where the leaf spring hangers attach and at a couple of other minor points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 Did Lagonda use gloss black originally? If not, why over-restore the car. Many times over restoration is easier than doing the research. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruffsup Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 Good point and I am trying to find out just for curiosity but I am not fond of the look of flat or satin black.My car was originally light grey and the frame was painted that colour as well. I know this as I have the "works record " cards . I do not like grey and will be painting the body BRG ( British racing green) I have already respoked the wheels and had them powder coated dark red. Interior will be red . I do not care about 100% originality and my dream is to just drive and enjoy the car, not have it judged. I will post here what I find out . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 I am not a fan of powder coating frames and wheels. Powder coating can chip and is difficult to repair, and once it gets a little rust under it, the rust will hide and take it's toll. A good cleaning , good quality primer and a good coat of enamel, either acrylic or industrial equipment paint should do the trick. With powder coating, you still have to fill the pits with special high-temp primers to remove defects and pits, otherwise every mark will show. Drives me crazy when someone shows off his nicely powder coated wheels that are cover with pits! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruffsup Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 yes I have decided against powder coating. Now the only decision is to use gloss paint or not. I have just received an email from the owner of a very original car and it had traces of the original gloss BRG on the frame before restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 I am having my frame blasted and using a powder coat primer. Then I am going to use the standard paint from Tractor supply. That way when the frame gets chipped or scratched I can easily get the paint and touch it up. Matching should not be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janousek Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 I see you've found the product your going to use but besides powder using an epoxy primer is the best and most durable finish I've ever found for chassis parts. I use SPI black epoxy and have for over 10 years. A blasted frame with 3 light coverage coats and your done. If it's pitted then spray 3 heavy coats and sand the pits away and spray 2 light coats and your done. One product that is designed to stick to bare metal and has zinc to fight corrosion. It's adhesion to blasted steel is far superior to any type of top coat applied to a primer. Those are going to chip and when it does you see grey underneath. One positive is if your going to paint over epoxy with gloss paint then it has a chemical bond with the epoxy if within the 7 day window. This bond is much stronger than painting over a self-etching or 2k style primer. Any of those POR style paints aren't worth putting on even if they are free. Your doing all the labor you might as well do the best job you can do. I'm looking at a very nice model 38 packard right now with big chips in the black front axle/spring with thick grey primer hallows around it. The products I use and technique doesn't do that. Thinner is better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruffsup Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 I have used an epoxy primer over the freshly blasted parts . There are some rust pits. Can I safely scuff and apply bondo over the epoxy primer before I put the "chassis saver" on? I have been told to scuff the surface lightly before applying the chassis saver over the epoxy primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janousek Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 I'm not sure what epoxy you are using but most have a 7 day window where no scuffing is needed. If I can't get to it in 3 days then I will red scotchbright to open up the epoxy just to make sure it has good adhesion. I would use a glaze over the pits instead of regular body filler. It's smoother, sands better, and applies better without pinholes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 In 34’ everything black was gloss. I don’t believe satin or flat was even invented yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janousek Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Chris, satin paint was around during that period. I know Auburns used them on their chassis and such. I don't know when it was first utilized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 From what I’ve read Rich, if the chassis was dull, it was probably painted in lacquer and not rubbed out but most 30’s era GM cars especially were enamel painted and would shine as there was no satin at the time. The Auburn should have been an enamel I would think but I could be wrong without doing more research. I was told paint specifically made as satin finish was not produced in at least the first half of the 30’s. Trying to research this more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janousek Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 34' Auburns have to have a satin frame/generator/starter to pass judging in the ACD club. That's enough for me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 Brad is correct. The 'hard' parts that Auburn painted black was semi-gloss black. Parts that were purchased from outside vendors such as Delco and others were gloss black. It is easy to discern this when one is bolted to the other. Semi-gloss black was probably cheaper at the time. I have original low mile Auburns that show evidence to this. The Auburns that I speak of are 1931-1936. I have no expertise on what went on before that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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