70sWagoneers Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 So I've rebuilt the engine and suspension in a 1937 Buick 40 Special. The front shocks, Delco Lovejoy 1947A and 1947B, leak out the seals. I've have been forced to try to rebuild them myself. I've got the arms off of one, but now I need to get the shaft out so I can pull the dust caps off and replace the seals! It looks like the shaft must be removed to use a bearing puller to pop out the dust cap. How do I get the shaft out??? So far, I cannot remove the large knurled end caps. It seems the only way to get them off is with the specialty tool "J-766 Knurled End Cap Wrench". One guy mentioned that they don't remove the knurled end caps , but just pry out the welch plug on top and then do whatever to get the shaft out. I may be misunderstanding him. So I pryed the plug out and don't see anything to unscrew or disconnect so I'm stumped once again. Is my answer behind the knurled caps? Any tips to get the knurled cap off without destroying it? Is there a way to replace the seals without removing the shaft? And who wants to let me borrow a J-766 Knurled End Cap Wrench? Thanks James C. J-766 Knurled End Cap Wrench is #7 in the attached picture below, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37_Roadmaster_C Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) Hi James, I had the shocks on my 37 Roadmaster rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics in New York and am extreemly happy to recomend them. Now for your actual question... I would think that a modern way to go after this problem with minimal chance for dammage would be a strap wrench. They were common for oil filters in days gone by. I would suspect that they are available from most tool suppliers including Harbor Freight. EDIT to add: Check out Harbor Freight Item #69373. That tool seems a bit light duty, but it shows what tool I mean. Robin Edited February 22, 2017 by 37_Roadmaster_C add info (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) If these are like earlier Delco shocks, the end caps right where the shaft exits the main unit are what covers the seals. If you have the arms off then you may be able to pop these little dust caps off. these caps are what holds the seals (usually leather) in. They can be replaced with more modern seals and the shaft can even be sleeved if it is marred up. Let us know how you are doing. I may even have a spare or two if you mess anything up while working on them. Edited February 22, 2017 by nickelroadster addition (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 James, what did you use to pull the arms off the shaft?. I have read they can be a bear. If you will go to the Team Buick web sits/forum, you will find a guy on there that has a complete tutorial on these shocks. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 I rebuilt the single arm version on my 32 Dodge Brothers. A different beast as the shaft comes out with the arm. Not sure how yours works, but I had to rotate the shaft until I could access the bolt that held an arm to the shaft. Once the bolt was loose, the shaft slid off the arm and out of the shock body. I can't tell if you can access that bolt through the plug hole or if you have to remove those end caps to get to it. My single arm unit has a convenient removable plate that allows easy access to the bolt and arm. I'll post some pictures tomorrow that may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 The shocks on my '36 Dodge are similar too but single arm units. The shafts look to be pressed in and pinned and I never did figure out how to remove them ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70sWagoneers Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Ive tried a small strap wrench, a large pipe wrench and a couple of other shop made "wrenchs". I got the arms off with a large puller and heated them red hot with an acetylene torch. Even with the arms off, there is no sure way to grab the dust caps. If the shaft was out I could maybe use a bearing puller (I read that on internet). With the welch plug out, there are no bolts I see. Does the shaft just press out? Thanks James C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70sWagoneers Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Alright, so I tried a more direct route to the seals! So I welded together a puller with some pipe and a bolt that I tack weld to the dust cap to pull it off. Works great! Didn't have to remove the shaft or the piston caps. Tho now I have to weld fill some holes in the dust caps and refinish them (maybe zinc plate?). I also need to find some gasket material; 1/4" thick. The cheapest thing Ive found is sponge Viton on ebay. Anyone think this may be too soft? Otherwise all I can find is 1'x3'x1/4" cork rubber material at about $60 which I aint gonna do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 (edited) Rather than try to make seals yourself go to a bearing supply house and they will have an almost unlimited supply of different size seals that you can modify to fit. As an example I used the SKF seal handbook. They also have sleeves to use if the shaft is at all damaged. I have some shocks that are the same type as what you have and the dust caps came off fairly easily usin a hammer and a five way scraper. Edited February 25, 2017 by nickelroadster addition (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70sWagoneers Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 I went to the local bearing "distributor" and of course the dont have any seals, nor does the local industrial supply. I guess at this point Im just not sure who to ask. But Ive got the 1/4" viton sponge on the way, but if there is something better (for a decent price) or if I shouldn't use this, I'd like to know. Thanks James C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 It is hard to believe that a bearing supply would not have any seals. I would try and go on the internet where I know you would find some. You may be able to fashion something out of the material that you are getting that will work but It should be easy to find any size seal that you would need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37_Roadmaster_C Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Wow, a bearing supplier without access to seals is kinda like a NAPA without access to spark plugs. I think you are getting the run around. Look for another bearing supplier. My town is quite small and even we have a bearing supplier that has all types of bearings, seals, sprockets, chain and gears available to order and most common size things in stock. If I may ask, What city or area are you in? Someone here may be able to point you to a good source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 When you ask just give them dimensions don't tell them what it is for. Usually if you mention it is for something more than twenty years old they don't even want to bother. Also look for the oldest employee. There are lots of online catalogues you can browse as well. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 I recently needed seals. I found nothing the right size in Timken or SKF or any one else's on-line documents I looked at. I looked for quite a while too. In the end I got on the phone and found them in one call, by size. They turned out to be NAK brand with no part number, just a size reference. I suggest you do the same. BTW, I was replacing felt axle seals with a double lip type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 I have been able to replace the seals on Delco-Lovejoy shocks that are common to 35-36 Auburn . The seals can be procured at Locateballbering.com Talk to Mark x 7012. It is my opinion that these shocks cannot be rebuilt properly unless the end-caps are removed . It is hard to believe that only two of these knurled wrenches exist in the USA one at Apple and one at Five Points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Is there a patent number cast into the body? You might be able to look it up for more information about how they go together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70sWagoneers Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 (edited) I'm in Mooresville, NC..... Race City, USA. If I can tomorrow, I'll call locateballbearings.com. Thanks James C. Edited March 3, 2017 by 70sWagoneers (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markewebb '39 Buick Team Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) I just bought a 39 Buick Special 40 and this is my first post. Picture may give you an idea how to mount shock to workbench to get leverage, the link to hometownbuick gives instructions, and the jar openers are the tool I would try first to use instead of wrench J 766. http://www.hometownbuick.com/1951-buick-chassis-suspension-repair/ Edited March 7, 2017 by markewebb (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I know this is for a single arm shock, but maybe some of the information below will help out with your shock rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I haven't gotten to Part Four yet. I hope this helps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70sWagoneers Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Thanks everyone. The last post is very helpful. So, I've put new Viton sponge seals (hand-cut) in, welded the arms back on and applied paint. Since I filled with jack oil last night... no leaks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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