70sWagoneers

Thanks you very muck 1937McBuick. That is extremely helpful! I knew thered be a lens gasket but i didnt know it was sprung. Thatll be relatively easy tho. Well, since the Spring meet at Charlotte is canceled, I can take my time. Thanks everyone. James C

I got everything Dave Tacheny had, but Im still coming up short! So the clips slip in there sideways and when turned flat on the reflector are held in place by spring. Ok. Anyone got any springs, good pictures or springs, willing to send me one to recreate some, or willing to draw up a good blueprint?? Thanks, James

Thanks Gary. Thats perfect. I'm missing some parts that I need help with still. In this picture: I see on each of the "prongs" that poke through the reflector, some sort of wire spring. Can anybody tell me what these or called or better yet does anyone have any?! I need four, but I could copy if I had one And then in this picture... You mention a retaining clip that I dont have either. Anyone got any pictures or any to spare?!? Sorry to be a pain, even with Gary's awesome write-up! I'm a metalworker so if I could get at least one of each of these do-dads I could recreate them. This is turning into a major project. Thanks again James C

1937 Buick Special So, my car has sealed beams installed and Im beginning to revert them back to original. Ive got lenses and bezels. Ive got a pair of reflectors I'm going to re-silver. And I've got a pile of salvage buckets that I can hopefully combine into a good pair. So I'd appreciate any good photos y'all have of how all this goes together. Ive never seen this setup in the headlamp housing and cant seem to find what I need on the internet. I need to know where gaskets go and what thickness (I can cut the gaskets). So whatever photos you have will help. And for some specific questions... What holds the reflector on the prongs that protrude from the bucket? (Picture of prong) And the long thin spring in the bucket... what shape is it supposed to be? I got one thats flat and one thats got a bend at the end. Thanks again everyone. James C

I had the same problem. Two major thungs fixed it. The first time it was a broken joint between the field stud on the outside of the case and the field coils inside. It takes a big soldering iron to re-solder the joint. The finale was to add a dedicated ground cable from the starter ground bolt directly to battery ground post.

Bob's has the muffler clamp, fyi.

Thanks Gary! I'm missing everything except the horizontal hanger over the axle. I dont even have that plate that juts out over the rear of the muffler. But, funny enough, I do have the exact same generic hanger at the back of the frame. I'd really like to have the one at the front near the exhaust manifold because I'm scared of damaging the manifold. Where on the block does that attach? Maybe I could get lucky and find a modern clamp for the front of the muffler that looks right. Thanks James C.

Yes, Helfand beat me to it. I used Mopar P/N 32004255. They were the closest to original as I could find. But they were a tad larger O.D. so I had to enlarge the washer surface on the manifolds a bit.

1937 Buick Special 40 Hello, I need help replacing all the exhaust hangers on Betty. I don't know what the correct ones look like and where they go. Now, there is one cobbled together hanger at the back of the muffler and some wire holding up the far end of the tailpipe. Can anybody help? I'd really like some pictures of type and placement on the car, but anything including part numbers would help. Thanks, James C

Yes, I re-ask if anyone knows any shop around the Mooresville or Charlotte NC area. I see it is fairly simple, i just want an experienced hand to do it. But it may turn out to be a learning experience. Thanks James C

Im in Mooresville, NC. I so far cannot find anyone around here to remove and remount tires on my 1931 Auburn, split lock ring rims. Im almost willing to buy some tire irons and try myself, but it rather someone experienced with tires do it and check it for balance. Does anyone know anyone near Mootesville, NC that can do this? Also is,there anyone around here that can true these wheels also? Thanks James C

If the motor was mostly run on non-detergent motor oil and has lots of oil sludge buildup, a detergent type motor oil may release a tidal wave of junk into your oil. So if you go with a detergent oil, id plan on doing ANOTHER oil change soon to clean everything out. Id use just a cheap oil first for your "wash" then refill with a good "hot rod" or "classic car" oil like Valvoline VR1 which has more zinc and moly. 10w-30 should be good barring other mechanical issues. I personally run synthetic 5w-30 in a low mileage '37 Special. For the transmission, id seek an oil with GL-4 specs. GL4 is safer for yellow metals which many older trans have. GL5 or GL6 may harm yellow metals. Napa has a StaLube oil which is GL4. This is also what i use in my differential because there are two thin brass shims in there. Im not sure about your diff. For rad fluid, i chose to go with the pet friendly propylen glycol style for i have pets, the cooling system is not a closed system and i prefer it for when it has to be changed and it inevitably gets everywhere. Otherwise theres no problem with the standard green. Id do some sort of coolant cleaner flush with CLR or stuff from auto parts store. James,C

Just spent the last ten minutes lookimg for my copy of that book. Couldnt find it! I think the Standard Catalog is the solitary reference left of the Worldmobile. But that description is spot on with the hood. The coach work is good except the hood. It almost looks like its from another car and then someone bashed it in to match some cowl contours. A lot of the ancilliary parts are sort of propped up and lashed on. It was definitely a prototype made of a conglomerate of different brand pieces. But, I separated the water pump which took days filled with evaporust, razor blades hammered along the parting line, heat, and hammering. Thanks James C

It is a orphan called a Worldmobile. It never went into production. Some say they were working on eight of them but this is the only one left. It has been pushed around for a long time but now the goal is to make it drivable AND preserve as much patina as possible. It is a survivor. But the water pump leaks like a seive and both gland nut are shattered and galled into their holes. So I also need some leads on where to get replacement gland nuts. Ill get size and thread count once i get the pump off. Thanks James C

Found this pic of a lycoming cut-away engine. So that gear has to come off.

And then what? I'm looking for all the direction I can get. Haven't worked on a engine like this before. Also I need new gland nuts... who is a good source for water pump parts? Thanks James C

How do i remove the water pump from the timing chain/gear drive of a lycoming 2H? Do you pull the pulley off the front? Do i need to remove the front cover? If so Ive got to remove the radiator. Thanks James C

So I finally solved my starter woes. Now Ive got new 2/0 soldered positive cable, new mesh type ground strap, new armature and field coils in starter, new Optima battery and an auxilliary ground cable that goes directly from starter to ground strap on battery. I fixed a few problems, but believe my battery was going bad as the main culprit. But the ground from starter to battery made a significant difference too. But this is on top of me welding nuts into the frame as my ground attachment points. So she starts so good now. Thanks everyone, on to the next thing James

It was from Rhode Island Wire. So I actually just went to Napa and got a correct size 2/0 that fits right, looks better,and cheaper. Thanks everyone James

Ive cleaned the connections and switch, and installed higher wattage white 6v LEDs in my '37 Buick. All lights work including the map and clock light. You cannot see the gauge cluster lights during the day. I always joke with passengers about how hard Ive worked on the lights and flick the switch on and off and ask excitedly "You see that?!". They always say no I dont see anything. But at night it decently lights the cluster up. So I'm just hoping thats as good as it gets. James

I ordered 2/0 cable and a straight post clamp type battery terminal for my 6v Buick. First, the clamp says 3/0 but i went ahaead and soldered it. But then it actually seems to be the smaller neg terminal size, even though it has a "P" on it. Even after spreading the opening its still too small, but it would fit the neg great. Do you agree and/or am I crazy? Thanks James

1937 Special 248ci Is there a filter i can buy for this fuel pump glass? If not has anyone made their own? Is it just a mesh,rolled into a tube shape? Thanks again James

Yes, 1/0 or 2/0 sounds like the way to go. My issue is starting. If my battery charger says 95% to full charge, I get about 20seconds total of cranking, and if she don't start, the battery is dead. And a lot of times, if everything is hot, the starter will barely turn the engine over. Ive taken any excess timing out of the distributor. Ive gone through the starter many times and have even changed out the armature which seemed to fix the problem for a while, but now I cant trust it again. The only thing left to change in the starter is the field windings. But, I want to make sure the battery cables aren't causing me problems first (changing field is a pain). Thanks everyone. James C

Nice, Gary. I've added a few extra grounds too. I added one from generator to chassis. So 1gauge spins the starter well? The starter is my main problem at the moment. Thanks James

Sorry, I wasnt sure. I thought it almost looked like vinyl in pic. Thanks James C