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About lrlforfun

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/07/1957

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Castro Valley, CA


  • Biography
    A retired hot air salesman

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  1. OK Buick People: So by changing the terminology, it would also send a signal that the old car community is looking after itself. Change can be good. In this case, very good. How many more reasons do I need to give? LET'S DO IT! Mitch
  2. OK: Ed. How about UOS? Simple enough. Ship. It needs clarification. Who knows how this inaccurate phrase came about? Matt H. Unused would simplify the confusion. AND....a similar deal in which consumers are given another ride to where they really don't know where they're going is "Salvage Title". When a title is branded by most states it doesn't say why. It just says flag. This really doesn't help the consumer that much. Maybe it's better than nuthin' but all in all it's way too vague. Mitch
  3. OK Lamarr: Here is my request. I'm hopin' you can fill it. The request? Please have people quit using the term "New Old Stock" on this forum. Here's my reasoning...... 1. If it's ain't new. It's only new if it was recently manufactured. 2. People have unreasonable expectations. So many think they are getting a product in the same condition as if they were to purchase it from a store during a time when the product was indeed recently manufactured. Not necessarily true. 3. Father time has done his magic on me, the next guy and the Universe. A bunch of old parts un-used can be anything but perfect. Chrome sittin' on the shelf can be pitted. Soft parts can get brittle and of course, oxidation never sleeps. 4. Safety. How'd you like to rebuild a carb with an un-used old kit and it leak and the car catch fire? How 'bout un-used brake parts that fail due to the fact the components deteriorated from sitting? It can easily happen! I'm sure the folks reading this paragraph can add to the list. 5. Industry standards have adopted the term New Old Stock. I suggest it is misleading and our hobby has made a big mistake in adapting it's usage. My suggestion is to make a rule ON THIS FORUM that if a person wants to sell a product that is un-used they call it "UN-USED old stock. They can also describe it's condition to their prospect. 6. This forum carries a lotta pull and I believe that if you pull the trigger on the re-naming other forums will consider might just follow suit. Thanks for your consideration, Mitch
  4. OK Bob: A theory that what you want to hear is that there is a real short cut. I wish because I have ooodlez of cars with rust holes. The short cut. There is none. Total disassembly of the trim. Media blast to bare metal. Cut the ca-ca out and replace it with non rusted metal that sometimes can be purchased new or used...or....fabricate what's necessary. Very involved. I have found that the shops that do this kind of work think they have everybody by the short hairs and unless you are willing to write a blank check paying by an hourly time/materials quote....... good luck! Perhaps with a new administration that gives vocational training the respect it deserves, more young people will be learning this skill and then it will get reasonable. I can only hope. Mitch
  5. OK David: I have tons of them. I do not ship. Oh, and what's your location? I'm In Castro Valley, CA. Mitch
  6. OK Beast: Location? I have dozens of Nailhead blocks, cores, etc. Mitch
  7. OK Ms. Lauren: You ditched so many cars to the front of the line. 1. A 600 mile drive home says a LOT about an old car. 2. It's a custom interior with a/c and power vents. Nicely equipped....and BTW, like the auction announcers commonly say....nicely bought! Mitch
  8. OK Riviera People: A correct term is "Unused Old Stock" New? No...and we know that 50 years old ain't new. What else is so important about this totally incorrect terminology? 1. It may have been on the shelf for 50 years and it could be pitted, scratched or damaged. 2. If it is a soft part like fuel or brake related the part might be dead from sitting. That's a flat-out SAFETY issue. Even bolts of fabric can be no good from sitting for so long. That's not a safety issue unless gettin' a spring in the wrong place is worth discussing. 3. There are hidden expectations that one is buying the same product they would have if they were to go and purchase the product new from a seller today. So, there you have it. UN-USED OLD STOCK. Mitch
  9. OK Riviera People: I played a game in my head while working out. This game really took the sting out of some tough exercising. I'd take one of my cars...or a car i knew of and would imagine Just 3 or fewer added options. I could add to give any particular car the extra something I'd like to see. BTW, with First-Gen Rivz....Full tint, a/c and power windows is almost everything. Example: A stock 64 Riv. Beige/saddle Custom, power windows, a/c. What 3 options would i add? In this case nothing. Example: A stock 65 Riv White/blue, Standard, no power windows, a/c. I'd just add power windows. Example: A 60 Le Sabre 4 door post silver, Power steering, automatic, music-n-heat. I'd add Full tint, a/c, power brakes Get the jist? Mitch
  10. OK Winston: I purchased a Chinese one for 80 bux from Steven at the Best offer Counts. I haven't installed it yet. Steven said the fit was not exactly perfect like oem. We'll see. NOS? No. If it's 50+ years ain't new. Mitch
  11. OK Richard: Spokes are brushed stainless and while when clean they sparkle, they ARE a brushed finish. Mitch
  12. OK Riviera People: This thread is some what pertinent to what I did recently on a 65 Riv.. I ordered a set of 225 70 15z in a whitewall this week. Because I was going through my stash i decided to see if I had a matched set of 65-70 style steel wheels. They are like the ones pictured. The problem? I have many but they are all have tires on them and I did not want to unnecessarily dismount the tires.. Next. I didn't know if they came in 5 1/2' wide or 6" wide and I wasn't gonna dismount any tires just to measure so....whaddid I do? I got a Turbine cap with studs and proceeded to mount it to the rim. The secret??? The 63 and 64 Turbine caps are identical (except for paint)....but then I remembered Ed's mentioning that the studs had a spacer to accommodate a FLUSH fit on a 6" wheel. There ya go. Place a Turbine cap with a spacer stud on the rim and if it's 6" it will be flush. 5 1/2" will expose a gap between the outer edge of the cap and rim of about 3/8" or so. I didn't measure it but it looks about that much. I only dismounted 2 tires off rims rather than 8. Oh, and yes, this also works with 63 and 64 rims with the larger hub diameter. Perhaps this is a personal fantasy but I like the 70 series whitewall because it is a wee bit lower and puts a wee bit more tread on the ground. Now I have a wider rim to accommodate the 70 series tire. With a tight suspension it should make a difference...or again, is this just a fantasy? BTW, sparkling wire caps will grace these rims of which the beads were wire brushed with my angle grinder and primed and painted to prevent leaks. Mitch
  13. OK Riviera People: I've seen much worse. From a stock perspective the only extremely cumbersome thing to reverse is the taillights and back body panel, otherwise it's not that far from being brought back to stock. Now, as far as the judgement goes....y'all need to back off the throttle a leetle. Mitch
  14. OK Riviera People: I believe the wires might be color coded differently form each year. I discovered this when Bob Scanlon made me a "keeper" piece for the 4 gang switch cradle. I'm not positive though. This is an easy conversion for someone who is fairly familiar with the system and is fairly good with electrical stuff. I've done a tinted glass changeover in my green 65 and have had the guts out 10 times. unfortunately for me i still....AFTER 10 TIMES...struggle with getting it correct the first time. mitch
  15. OK Buick People: This guy wants a million dollars for everything. He's had 'em on the ebay, they're marked sold and then keep re-appearing. Interesting pictures, sure, but why beg for obscenly overpriced salvage? Mitch