Jump to content

Seat removal help please....


Roadster90

Recommended Posts

Would like to remove the seats in order to dye.....the left edge and the "leather cracks"of the drivers seat are just beginning to show some leather color >>>> can someone who has performed the R & I shed some light on the removal procedures please?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Start by moving the seat to the extreme forward or back position (your choice)

Remove the plastic covers over the seat rails, remove the mounting nuts.

Move the seat to the other extreme position and do the same.

Unhook the power connections under the seat.

Grab the seat, lift up and out.

Job done....seat removed. (reverse process to install)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest kennyw

Start by moving the seat to the extreme forward or back position (your choice)THEN:::::::remove the four bolts holding the seat to the track. YOU;;;;;do not have to remove the whole seat track.....This is how we made them in the Gm. factory. Now.....still your choice........ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Driver and passenger seat COVERINGS are identical. You can re-cover your bad drivers' seat with a matching-condition cover from a passenger seat, and keep it looking original.

What color/year are your seats, Nick? I may have a seat w/good condition cover which may do the job you need.

Nice to see a response from an original Reatta builder! Thanks for your input!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest imported_barra

I have an '88 Red/Tan and there is wear on the driver's door side of that seat. Is this something that an auto upholstery shop can match? Does GM carry this material still?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply Randy, but I just have some slight wear or color wear on the edge of the seat I should say, and I am silly in even thinking about a solution for the condition....guess I am trying to make a new car out of a 1990 ( I am not lacking for things to do either smile.gif ) Anyway, I am fine with the redying and the instructions received.

Thanks,

Nic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest kennyw

sorry, but I worked at the baltimore Gm assembly plant. The last thing we made was the astro-van. Almost all Gm seats are made this way.......They were installed as a unit, however it is easier to remove just the seat with its 4 attaching bolts and leave the tracks and motors and wireing in the car. The Reatta uses a lot of hog rings to hold the cover in place and is very labor intensive to take apart for repair......ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest F14CRAZY

Ken: is it true that like all GM seats are the same as far as bolt batterns? And most any seat from most anything could go in a Reatta?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 years later...
Guest thepreacher

I have a similar question, except I found a Reatta with a fairly nice interior at a pick n pull. How do I get the seats out with the battery gone and the switches gone as well? Kenny's answer intrigues me. Are there four accessible bolts to remove the seat and leave the rail?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest thepreacher

MC,

I thought of that. I will have to look up which wires move the seat because they are cut.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Mc_Reatta
MC,

I thought of that. I will have to look up which wires move the seat because they are cut.

Tan +V : -V to green (or brown) to go forward

Tan -V : +V to green (or brown) to move back

color may be green or brown depending on whether before or after the connector and which side of car. tan should be the same in any case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a suggestion on the seat removal order. Seat all the way back and remove front attachment, slide seat all the way forward and remove the rear last. The power plug is easily accessible at the rear of the seat, requiring only one move. I also find it easier to face straight down to remove the floor nuts rather than something under the seat.

Edited by 2seater (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a suggestion on the seat removal order. Seat all the way back and remove front attachment, slide seat all the way forward and remove the rear last. The power plug is easily accessible at the rear of the seat, requiring only one move. I also find it easier to face straight down to remove the floor nuts rather than something under the seat.
hmmm... I'll have to try it that way the next time I have a seat out. I might have wrote a tutorial on how to do it the hard way. Seat Removal Instructions I'm not surprised at that. I do a lot of things the hard way. lol
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ronnie, I must correct myself on that forward-rear positioning. The drivers seat plug was easy to get to from the rear when forward, however, the passengers side was not easily accessed until the seat was tilted back off of the mounts. I can also see the other option if the floor studs are rusted badly and not removable. I had one that required tender care to get the nut off without breaking the stud.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As some salvage yards wont let you bring in batteries you can also disconnect the cable under the seat from the motor and using a small vice grip on the cable rotate it to make the seat move one side at a time A little slow-but it workes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...