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Everything posted by manikmekanik

  1. I Have a few good ones! Bare and covered. Shipping is the main problem, due to size and packaging requirements. The sunroof hole can be cut into a coupe headliner shell, use yours as the hole pattern and cut it smaller, increase as needed to fit.
  2. All Y'all are such great guys! Hey Vinnie, Barney, Harry, Jim & DAVE! Thanks for all the kind posts! Cancer Treatment Center awarded me with many extra laps!:cool: Dave called me today, said I was missed & should check in. Beauty is my last car, also have a 2005 Le Sabre for daily use, I down-sized my collection from 13 Reattae to ONE. Yep, I got in big trouble that day at Michigan Int'l Speedway, at 115mph (where signature photo was shot), Where's the pix of the fire marshal chewin' me out??? I've always been known to be one who takes full advantage of "once in a lifetime" opportunities. Who has pix of Beauty in the GM 100th parade? I saw TV cameras up close that day. ...and I have a plaque indicating Beauty was built last, despite all the signatures on her last surviving sister, (in Bulgari's collection 2008), who ceremoniously rolled off last. Congratulations, CarGirl! your Reatta is a beautiful hand-crafted automobile, built for two. Your Reatta is an extremely rare and unique vehicle, hold on tight!
  3. I have a bunch of "previously admired" center caps for early Reattae, not NOS but worthy. ...and a sizeable stock of electronics, tail lamps, clusters, master cylinders, alternators, switches, relays, turn signals, headlamp assemblies and others. ...including pair of NOS gray 16way seats with suede bolsters, LF fender, grilles, front lower valance, headliners. I still need a true '91 wheel for Beauty. Dave called me today and said I should check in, since we left the farm I've been out of commission. Thanks to Cancer treatment centers of America I'm now winning the fight against head & neck cancer & feel stronger every day. Howdy to all y'all! I'm glad to be back.:cool: Nice new look, way too many new options here at the forum. ...and a number of friends & familiar names, hey Barney, Jim, Mike, Padgett, KDirk, Handmedown, My3 and DAVE!!
  4. Winter - a very small town in Wisconsin, birthplace of Panikmekanik. It's soooo far north, they just call it winter year 'round up 'dere. We drove Black Beauty all the way up 'dere ONCE, an 8-hour drive, never leaving Wisconsin. We arrived in mid-September, stayed 1 night, nearly collided with a deer, woke to a frosty convertible, drove back down south. Frost reached the farm 2 months later. Beauty had never been frosted before, and not since.
  5. My earliest posts here requested advice on removing a cassette stuck in my 1991 Reatta convertible, (Black Beauty), as I was tempted to use a butterknife to rescue my Todd Rundgren tape. With excellent advice from Barney, I removed & disassembled the unit successfully retrieving the tape. Realizing my next tape may shred from age, I decided to acquire an adaptor-tape to play tunes from external sources thru the cassette player. It cost $5 at WALly-world. I can even use my turntable in my ragtop now! Thanx, Barney!
  6. I have one pair of NOS Reatta/Rivera gray 16-way seats with suede bolsters, (not included in bulk sale listed here), $500/pr. plus shipping. PM for more info, pix.
  7. Better than that annoying "DOOR AJAR OF JAM" message appearing when both door ajar and door jam switches fail simultaneously!
  8. '66 225 HT (no post) Wildcat 445 (401 nailhead) 3sp auto not driven/started in 4 years, or so. good body, chrome, black seats - not parted out, restorable. 75k miles. First $800 takes her home. reply via PM, be patient as we're moving on weekends.
  9. You and me both, Marck! The value of the parts stock alone may cover the cost of a car-hauler to transport all 4 cars and parts stock! We'll have room to keep the parts stock, yet not the cars - I don't want to send them to scrap.
  10. ....more details in the Reatta buy/sell section thread. Send me a PM for contact info.
  11. With a great deal of agony, I have decided to close the upper midwest Reatta orphanage, inspired by recent economic developments. All cars and parts must vacate the farm ASAP, as ownership may change hands as soon as 9/28. here is a quiklist of the bulk offering: (1) 1988 Reatta coupe White/Burgandy 182k miles runs smooth, good trans, very good overall condition, excellent interior, AKA Bambi-Killer (deer strike repairs completed years ago, no serious accidents), great tires. THIS CAR IS UNDRIVEABLE DUE TO DETERIORATION/BREAKAGE OF ISOLATORS. IT WILL NEED NEW ISOLATORS, AND NEW DASH SEAL, no others repairs needed, but must be repaired before roadworthy - so plan on towing it home. (3) 1989 designated parts cars, all with clear titles - Blue/blue, White/burgandy, Claret/gray. White/Burgandy '89 - Rolling bucket-o-parts, missing RF fender, R corner/vent window, and some interior parts which are part of included parts stock. 281k miles, runs smooth, trans good, VACUUM BOOSTER BRAKE SYSTEM-NO TEVES. CLARET/GRAY '89 - Rolling bucket-o-parts, front header bent from collision - no hood, front fenders, bumper. Interior mostly removed - yet many parts in stock, except seats. clean body, missing R vent window. Blue/blue '89 - mostly parted-out, no hood, bumper, L fender. Good engine, trans taillamp & remaining sheet metal, some interior parts remain in included stock. I prefer to sell all 4 cars and truck-load of parts in a single transaction, along with the remaining stock of Field service manuals for 88, 89, 91 Reattae. We're busy moving to another home nearby, so my replies may involve a delay, so don't get discouraged - I will reply. I also own a number of Reatta-specific special tools, some of which may be negotiated into the deal, including CRT tester, Teves breakout box, pressure tester, etc. Pix of most are at photobucket, username will-e-bay, or search photobucket for Reatta.
  12. I just ran accross this thread, does'nt look like anyone ever showed-up to examine your parts?car. I'd be glad to make the trip down from lower Cheezeland, as I'd like to meet up with my BCA sponsor (TomT), while in your town. Black Beauty has'nt been more than 50 miles from home since the BCA Nats/GM 100th parade thru downtown Flint, MI. We feel a need to get back In the Wind.
  13. check the self-diagnostic code readout, if your 740 has one it is on the cross-brace left-rear corner of the engine compartment. A little black box with a removeable cover, and a probe attached to a wire. Plug the wire into socket #6, hold button down for 1 second, then wait for code(s) to flash, read service manual to discern code description(S), then diagnose (decide) what is causing the code to be set. The trouble code does not always point to the defective part, rather to the part, or system being affected by the problem.
  14. One of my parts cars has been re-fitted with a vacuum-booster style M/C, an '89 White/Burgandy. I'll be out behind the barn today, maybe even down-under, in the spreader stall-where it resides. I'll take some pix, but may not get back to my 'puter 'till Monday.
  15. Photos of the vin from the boneyard cars should be sufficent, when accompanied by full shot of car, and note from the yard. I could use a '91 7-spoke wheel, or 2!
  16. Bull snot, or 3M super spray adhesive is the same formulation as Yellow death, AKA Gorilla snot, 3M's super weatherstrip adhesive, in a tube. When used properly it works great for any interior material adhesion. If it's too wet & thick when material is applied, it may soak-in, or thru and cause staiing, or material deflection/hardening. Extremeky sticky stuff. As for fabric, if NOS material is'nt readily available, one can choose a close facimile, I've had great experiences with Faux Suede fabric. Though alittle more costly than other fabric-store offerings, the range of tan colors makes it easy to match to most GM interior colors. Medium Felt also works well, with no need for backing, (like Faux Suede), and with indescriminate grain lends well to intricate shapes. Vinyl is yet another option, generally used in conversion shops, and marinas-for Regatta, not usually for Reatta. Maybe it was oldbuickman who told me he knew a fabric supplier who had access to NOS headliner material.
  17. I have a couple shells at the farm, gray, black burgandy, and 1-2 bare. As aforementioned, it's a little time comsuming, but extremely low-tech. The dome lamp is the most challenging part to remove. After removing the shell, lie it upside-down and use a stiff brush, or broom to remove the remaining foam backing and adhesive material. Spray a liberal amount of 3M interior (dries clear/white) adhesive, (for heavier covering material 3M super exterior adhesive (dries yellow-for vinyl tops)), and do the same to your replacement material, allow both parts to dry completely. With the aid of a helper, (or two!), spray a fresh coat of adhesive on the shell, and holding the material in a "U" shape, (parallel to the sides), allowing the center to barely touch the highest points of the shell. Now with clean hands, gently, slowly, smooth the centeral area, stroking it flat onto the shell. While helper(s) hold the remaining material just above the shell, while you fit the material from the center outward in each direction, to attach it to each feature/plane of the shell-paying close attention to the grain of the material, and slightly stretching it to match the detail of the shell's shape. This is the most time-consuming part of the process - and the most rewarding - when done properly, take your time - it'll only be about 10-15 min. to complete. Once the material is fully attached to the inside of the shell, make slits or cuts where needed to facilitate the installation of the visors, dome lamp, etc. later. Place the covered shell right side up on a clean surface, and add fresh adhesive to the edges where the excess material needs to be attached-before cutting excess from edges. Then, carefully smooth the edges onto the shell, taking care not to cover needed relief slits/holes for mounting of visors, dome lamp, etc. Once the shell is done, you can cut off all material from topside which has not been adhered, and with your helper(S), lift the shell into the cieling to re-mount it. Sounds more complicated than it is, think of it as smoothing sheets onto a bed-with glue on it-only one chance to get it right. If you find the material you like, I'll gladly do the work as barter for a new(er) 16" wheel for "Black Beauty", as her RR wheel has been bent since I acquired her. Preferrably in my shop, over here-accross the pond, in lower Cheezeland.
  18. Auto Zone won't have a clue, this is an OBD1 system, they could only "pin" the ALDL with any diag tool they have. You're better off with Barney's advise and your own skills. The ONLY diag tool better than your Reatta's own CRT is GM's TECH-1 ALDL scantool, the type used on the assy line, and by GM service centers. Check the electronics ground junction box between the battery and the fender. Sometimes when the neg. cable is replaced, the 2nd leg is'nt connected there, or needs cleaning. Be sure to look over the positive junction, too. AND... the sandwiched laminations inside the battery end of both cables. Also, check all fusible links, especially near battery junction boxes and starter. And, once again... MANY TANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE TO OUR NATION!!!!
  19. Hi Frank! I have a box of Reatta relays, amongst the collection of brake & electronic parts, here at the farm. Gimme a call, Be great to hear from you.
  20. I have a replacement part in black, if you're interested, Craig - I'm in lower cheezeland - you know where. Soon I will be posting ALL my remaining Reatta cars and parts for a bulk sale, so get it while I still got it! Did 'ya get things worked out with KLH?????
  21. These are the best Reatta plates ever, with sharp details and resilient finish. Black Beauty has one permanently affixed to her front license plate holder, just beneath her "Texas Moustache". Bob's Reatta license plate is a "must have" for any Reatta collector, or even the occaisional reatta driver. These are not reproduction items, but re-issued by the OEM manufacturer with exact details of the originals. In the years I've run this plate it has brought me only satisfaction and praise, NO tickets! Every police officer has commented on it, saying it's the most appropriate plate for Black Beauty. I've shown Beauty at 3 regional BCA shows and 2 BCA National events, (one judged, plate recognized as OEM!), including a ride thru downtown Flint, MI for the "100 years of GM cars" parade at the GM 100th anniversary show, and the Buick 105th anniversary National show, held on the same weekend. Bob's dedication to the Reatta division is unparalleled, offering all proceeds from sale of these plates for the club's benefeit. My kind of philanthropist! So, get yours today, before they are gone, and the price to acquire one goes back to rediculous prices over ebay.
  22. The metro Mad-Town area seems to be hard on Reattae. Craig's been nailed a couple times, I bought Rick Klann's after it was clobbered, and Notamekanik lost all 4 rear sub-frame mounting bolts out on US12, and Panikmekanik took out a 140 lb. buck with hers, with minimal damages, and no injuries - except the deer, who was DOA. I'm pleased to hear your Lil' Tank got the best of those 2 bread-boxes, and without personal injury to you.
  23. I get ALL my Reatta apparel from BCA/Reatta division, to support the club.
  24. What color column do you need? I have a few of each color, here at the farm.
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