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The Great Buick Reatta Brake Rattle Battle


luftweg

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Hey. I know this probably is old stuff, but what's the story behind this rattle and what's fix for it?

Is it both the front and rear that rattles?

I noticed if I have my foot on the brake while going over a bump, there is no rattle; without the brake, I get the rattle.

I also notice that if I have the e-brake partially on, and drive over a bump, the rattle is still there.

I thought that might mean it's in the front (or did I not have the e-brake on enough).

So, anyway, what has everyone done for this; it's terribly annoying -- makes the car sound like a rattle box, when it's not.

thanx,

Kenni

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This is a common issue and has been addressed in the past. As I recall, there is a problem with the rear pads. The OEM part is not just the same has the current replacement part. There was a spring or the like in the old part, that does not come with the new replacement. While some owners have tried to fix the noise, it always seems to come back. Someone posted a few years ago the correct GM part number which had the spring or bearing, but the part is NLA.

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Ahh, so it IS the rear pads (and not the front at all?).

When I first got the car, the guy told me that the rattle was 'a heat shield for the muffler'... he probably knew well what it was, but didn't want me to know...

Anyway, after ruling out the heatshield, and realizing it didn't rattle when the brake was applied, I thought I pull the wheels. The rear pads were a bit low, so I changed them (the front were pretty new looking so I left the calipers on).

The first set I bought didn't have the little pins on the back of the outer pads; I found a set that did, at Autozone of all places (so I returned the first set)

Now, after I had changed the pads, for about 2 days, there seemed to be no rattle.

Then I noticed the rattle again... damn.

Anyway.... Am I to understand that everyone here on the group, has a Reatta that rattles everytime you hit a bump??

Is it the inner or outer pads that rattle?

And what does it matter what wheel size is on the car; is it just increased resonance that loudens the rattle noise, or is there some sort of interference of the stock wheels that subdues it? (I do have the stock wheels on)

Sure seems there could be some way of attaching an ad hoc spring to take up the slack (which is what I'm assuming is causing the rattle), or something to stabilize the pads more.

I'd hate for people to always think I just ran over some flamenco dancer wearing castenets.

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oooops, so I read the old posts and know a bit more (and not to be redundant)..

The bracket idea sounds like something... perhaps even some sort of rubber or plastic fabrication might do.. I really have to look long and hard at the rear brake arrangement to understand this all (I'm more picture-oriented than word oriented)...

Kenni

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Be sure to check the rear caliper mounting brackets closely, they can wear-out at the mounting holes/threads, or crack/break in this area. I have replaced mine with brackets/calipers from a Seville-same part. I have found the brake "clatter" can be avoided by adding high-temp silicone gasket material to the back of the new pads, effectively "gluing" them to the caliper. This works longer than the "anti-rattle" stick-on pads sold/supplied by parts stores.

If the rear brakes "wobble" or make a "wop-wop" sound, the bracket is bad.

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I had similair symptoms to yours once on our Reatta. I had just recently replaced the front brake pads and found the clips that hold the pad into the caliper piston were a little loose, pulled them out, stretched the clip out a little bit and put it all back together, problem solved.

May not be the same case with yours though.

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I do not do my own repairs. But have describe this very issue with my mechanic. It is his thougth some shim stock might be the fix (shim in a can type stuff). I keep forgetting to pick this up since my son is driving the car more than I am. Before I do - do you all think that shimming may be a solution? Like others have said, it is "NOT RIGHT" driving a car that looks like this - that sounds like that. Or are we just ultra sensitive. Maybe it isn't as loud to those outside the car

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Guest C.F.Massie

Believe me those on the outside hear it better than you do if your windows are closed. I've been stopped at traffic lights often enough when other drivers roll down their windows to tell me they think something is getting ready to fall of the car, it sounds terrible. I've replaced the back pads several times with Delco Duralast pads, the type GM recommends, and it stops the noise for about five to six months then its right back like a bad penny. You would think GM would have figured out a true fix for a car that was supposed to be Buicks top of the line back then. Hang in there someday someone on this discussion board will come up with a real cure. Oh, and by the way I have never heard this rattle on any other top GM product before. IT'S EMBARRASSING blush.gif

C.F.Massie

89 Red/Tan Reatta, 222,5000 and still

no work done to the engine or tranny

since she was new. smile.gif

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You're right, it can be embarrasing! Especially considering the rarity and beauty of our cars. More embarrassing when heard by drivers of "cookie-cutter" BMW's and the like who think they're cooler, (because thier car costs too much), and don't recognize the truly unique nature of Reattae.

Only other cars I've had such noise were Mustangs, (w/disc brakes) and Fords.

I always clean, lubricate guide pins w/Sil-Glide, and add generous amount of high-temp silicone gasket/brake material to the back of pads to "glue" them to the calipers. Halfway through pad life, I re-glue them if they start to rattle again. With rear brakes, it's important to remove any corrosion/crud impeding the smooth operation of the parking brake actuator/springs at the calipers.

I like the idea of "spray-on" anti-clatter glue, this could dampen sound inside the caliper piston, which seems to amplify the noise. See if your wrench can give you the name of this product to post here for all to see.

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Hmmmm, I have suspected that it may be my front brakes that are rattling, since the rattle does not go away when the e-brake is applied (but does when service brake is applied)...

Does this not point to the front brakes? (it's hard to tell where a rattle comes from, since the sound bounces off the pavement)

I will finally now look at the front brakes, just for S's and G's...

thanx for the idea

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Guest Greg Ross

Does your Emerg. Brake actually work? If it will hold the car on a steep incline with tranny in neutral (and your foot off the brake!) Then maybe it is your fronts.

IMHO this all relates to poor design, I've blurbed on this topic several times in the past 5 years. Adjustment on the rear brakes appears to rely on the emergency brakes working freely and self adjusting the gap as pad wear occurrs. How many owners here actually use their Emerg. Brake, if you don't use it you lose it, the cables corrode, seize and that's the end of that!

The left rear (drivers' side) is more prone to rattle by virtue of it's location as the slider pins/ calipers/ mounting brackets wear out-and they do. In several hundred thousand miles I've done brakes numerous times, as I recall the front calipers have been replaced once, the rear calipers most likely 3 to 4 times each. I tried the cheap and dirty remans, I've tried GM Reman and Premium GM Reman and typically within a month the rattle returns. I can adjust the emerg. brakes and get rid of it for a stretch, I can bond the pads on for short intervals but nothing lasts, Durastop Pads included.

Perhaps once I get myself back East for a stretch I'll take on the challenge.

I do know there appeared to be one little thing that seemed to help, a foam sleeve around the Emerg. Brake cable end at the caliper/ spring. I found this original detail (I assume) on a '90 rear Susp. Clip I bought to rebuild mine.

Beyond that ask GM!

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Guest F14CRAZY

The rattling heat shields are a Ford thing

Dad's Maui has the brake rattle shocked.gif

But my coupe doesn't. I thought I did but my muffler mounts are bad and it's hitting my Estaver hitch

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  • 1 month later...
Guest imported_Flash

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey. I know this probably is old stuff, but what's the story behind this rattle and what's fix for it?

Is it both the front and rear that rattles?

I noticed if I have my foot on the brake while going over a bump, there is no rattle; without the brake, I get the rattle.

I also notice that if I have the e-brake partially on, and drive over a bump, the rattle is still there.

I thought that might mean it's in the front (or did I not have the e-brake on enough).

So, anyway, what has everyone done for this; it's terribly annoying -- makes the car sound like a rattle box, when it's not.

thanx,

Kenni </div></div>

My rattle has stopped. "clips" on the rear pads replaced with new. Do not know for how long, but it is gone for now. Mechaniic said the old ones were spread too far. Recently had brakes done on all 4 wheels. Rotors and pads. Had the worst rattle since I've owned the car and I've had rattle for years.

The rattle is now gone.

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Greg Ross >>>>> You gave me the fix several years ago......

I replaced everything in the rear from the caliper bolts to the full kit (be sure to use everthing including the new rubber sleeves.....also used Durastops. I used lube and some sort of adhesive (forget now...was a Permatex product I think)and per Greg's instructions, peened the metal backing on the Durastops so they fit better in the caliper. I have put 20,000 quiet free miles on the car since (knock on wood smile.gif). I have exact repair instructions or at least what I did in several posts under my name >>>>go back in the search function several years...either by name search or under several variations of "rear brake noise", "brake noise", "brake rattle", etc and so on. I don't know, but the peening that Greg suggested might be the answer....worked for me smile.gif.

Flash....not sure what you are describing >>> may be as good as peening >>> can you describe a little better or give part #s'??/

Nic

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I have a suggestion...

Calling all, or <span style="font-style: italic">the</span>, Forum Administrator, to make some sort of online petition, from all of us here at the Reatta Forum. The petiton, would be in place, for two weeks. Everyone will have a chance to sign it.

We'll petition Buick, and specifically GM, to re-manufacture the OEM pads. I have an in, at Buick, that may help.

If we can get enough people to sign, we may have it made. They may make them expensive, but consider that if the rattle bothers you, you may be willing to pay.

If I'm sent the petiton, after the closing of the thread, I'll send it, along with what information, I deem necessary, to Buick, and GM. All of that legalese stuff, to make it sound convincing. tongue.gif

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Guest imported_Flash

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Flash....not sure what you are describing >>> may be as good as peening >>> can you describe a little better or give part #s'??/

Nic </div></div>

Nic,

I have virtually no understanding of brakes systems of how to change them. I'm sure I could learn it, just never did. What I think I understand is that there is a "clip" or "clips" that must hold something together (perhaps pads in a sleeve or something). These clips were spread allowing my pads to rattle at every bump, tar strip, etc. since my last brake job. In taking my car in for the pull to the left on braking, I requested they also look at the cause of the rear rattle. The rattle is gone and they said they installed new "clips". They charged me $27.00 for the clips. Do not know for how long the rattle will stay away, but I do not have it now.

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Guest Greg Ross

First Issue is bad design, this era of GM rear Disc brakes has just been bad news.

The replacement clips may work for a while, with heat they seem to lose their temper and relax bringing back the rattles. The fit of the Pads within the Caliper housing is probably the main source of rattles, the Pads available now don't fit the caliper properly. Next would be the mounting Pins/ bolts. These need to be relubricated periodically. I think it's a collection of contributing factors.

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