Jibby

Each of these links should bring you to a slide show, containing the pictures. They were taken with my camera phone, so they're not the greatest. But they'll give you an idea of what the car is like. Slide Show 1 Slide Show 2 Slide Show 3

Each of these links should bring you to a slide show, containing the pictures. They were taken with my camera phone, so they're not the greatest. But they'll give you an idea of what the car is like. Slide Show 1 Slide Show 2 Slide Show 3

I'm gonna wrangle up a digital camera, and post some pictures. I will try to get a complete review of the car, inside and out. Gimme some time to figure out how to post pictures. I have a Photobucket account, so I have to size them properly for the forum members. Go here -----> For Sale Post

Barney, I just feel that there is no good... or at least honest mechanic by me. I don't have the temperment to spend my weekends, working on all of the little details. The gas cap wouldn't close the other day. It pissed me off to no end. I finally got it working, but it was dark before I was finished. You can imagine all of the profanity the neighbors heard, while I screamed at what an American piece of (crap) I had in my hands. I don't have the mechanical or electrical know-how to get it right. Someone like yourself, could probably spend an afternoon, and fix everything that's wrong... but for me, I just get far too angry, far too quickly. I just don't have the temperment to play with old plastic parts and dry-rotted rubber. Going to any mechanic, puts me in the poorhouse for months. Even with the dealers, I still get banged for the civilian tier prices. I know that nothing is wrong with the ABS system, and yet it wants to tell me something is wrong. In fact, the diagnostics don't even find a problem with the system... and yet the light is still on. Trust me, if I had the capital to put it back into shape, it'd be better than new. In fact, a while back, some guy came on here and griped about his wife getting into an accident, because the brake system failed. He was so fearful of the system, he didn't want anything to do with Reattae. Beyond the mechanical failure, there's driver error, as well. Downshifting, and using the emergency brake for instance. Of course, if you're up somebody's tailpipe at 65 MPH, you're not gonna stop in time, but a good driver will always keep that distance. Point being, I know that the car is a good vehicle. In fact, beyond the (crappy) plastic and rubber components, everything was made with the best of the best. I just don't have the money anymore. My pockets have holes, that have holes. And I make an honest wage... but the bills are horrendous, and I can't keep myself afloat. This area is far too expensive for me to live in, and no employer is willing to hand out the salary to survive here. I live in one of the poorest counties in the Commonwealth, because the jobs salaries just don't pay the bills. I drive to NJ and get paid $20/$30 an hour, just to make ends meet. Last weekend, I drove to work, and it cost me more money that I actually made. Earlier this winter, I drove to work, and it cost me my "good" car, my 2000 Regal... because some idiot didn't know how to drive, and I avoided him, by putting myself through a telephone pole. The cops let him go, the car was totaled, and I ended up owing the insurance company, $1000.00 more, because of interest. Oh, and I got a ticket for careless driving, thanks to the fact that the State Police have an edict now, that they have to issue a ticket, for legal purposes. Regardless of whether a ticket is warranted. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Sinking, not floating. Every month a little deeper. Some months, it feels like somebody put lead weights on my legs. No, I'm tired of all of the stress. And the Reatta issues just make the stress worse. I just want to get rid of it. No more playing around with money that I don't have. Yours Aye, Bill

Details are over on the Buy/Sell Forum....

Hello All, I've placed my Reatta for sale, because I'm tired of dealing with all of it's niggling problems. I don't have the Bank of New York in my pocket, and although I love the car more than I love myself, I have to make a choice between me or debt. I'd love to pick up a '90 white/saddle coupe, but I'd only want a mint condition car, and I'm losing about $4,000 as it is with this car. I'm totally done. Capitalism has destroyed me. Someone find me a time machine, so I can go back to a time when the Almighty Dollar was worthless, and sword and shield were a man's best trade. God Bless America! The King is Dead. Anyway, I'm figuratively castrating myself by selling it for $700.00. It's worth that much in parts. If you have the time and temperment to tinker with it, go right ahead. If not, it'd make a great parts car. Yours Aye, Bill

They responded to him, because he apparently wanted to BUY merchandise. With General Motors in such a low, of course they'll reply to inquiries that might MAKE them money. Sad though, that another Buick historical site is getting the ball.

Year: 1990 Coupe: Coupe W/Sunroof Mileage: 96,094 Considered Correct? (Y) Location: Milford, Pennsylvania Title: It's not a salvage, and as far as I know, it hasn't been in any major accidents. There was some repair done near the driver's door handle, but it seems to have been done correctly. Any Accident History? Obviously, something must've hit the driver's door, but I have no idea if it's on record. Mechanic says the window is a "junkyard" window. May be a "junkyard" door, but it looks alright, and it functions properly. No hang, or trouble closing. Asking Price: $700.00 Willing to take trade: Not Interested Exterior Color: Bright Red Interior Color: Saddle Paint Original? (Y) Paint Condition? Fair to Good Belt & Bumper Molding Color: Body Color Body Dents: (Y) There are little dings all over the car. Mostly on the roof, a few on the sides. Body Rust: (Y) There are two spots, both spots are painted over, but it is apparent that there is a little rust underneath. Both are very small. They are both on the roof. One one the edge of the windshield, the other on the edge of the sunroof. No apparent leaks, so I'm guessing they were cleaned and covered with touch-up. Windshield Chipped or Cracked? (N) Vent Glass Intact? (Y) Rubber surround molding for windshield condition? Fair. It's doesn't look new, but it doesn't leak. Rubber surround molding for rear window condition? Fair. Same as above. Out Side Mirrors Intact? (Y) Driver's side mirror doesn't work, but the motor runs properly. I think the armature, if there is any, is broken. Headlight Motors Function Correctly? (Y) The lights are not syncronized. The passenger comes up after the driver, but it comes up properly, and holds. Tail Light Lens: Cloudy/Cracked. The reflector on the passenger side was broken, but I have the piece. It was apparently glued back on, but came off when I polished the car. Interior Original? (Y) 16 Way Seats? (Y) Works (Y) Seat Condition? (Good) They're good, just dirty. Some elbow grease and a good leather cleaner would make them nice. Drivers interior door panel condition? Poor Passengers interior door panel condition? Fair Center console top armrest condition? Fair Door weather stripping condition? Fair. As I said before. It doesn't look great, but it doesn't leak. It's all in one piece, and not torn or missing. Headliner Condition? Poor Carpet Condition? Poor to Fair. It's complete, but it's dirty, and the rear section is faded. Original Floor Mats: (Y) Floor Mat Condition: Fair. Need to be properly cleaned. Would be good, if clean. Condition of Steering Wheel Leather: Poor. It's intact, but it's horribly dirty, and it's worn. Sun Roof? (Y) Works? (Y) Functional Keyless Entry? (Y) Both Remotes? (N) Just one. Problems with Electronic Dash items? (N) Power Windows Work Correctly? (Y) The driver's side track was broken, but I had it spot welded. It works, although not perfectly. I try not to put it down all the way, for fear that it'll get stuck in the track. I think the regulator needs to be adjusted or replaced. Power Seats Work Correctly? (Y) Power Door Locks Work Correctly? (Y) Power Antenna Work Correctly? (Y) Original Sound System? Not sure, the radio is after market, but I have the original radio. The speakers work properly. Factory CD Player? (N) Sound System Fully Functional? (Y) Aftermarket Sound System Equipment? (Y) Aftermarket CD player, single din, with enclosure plastic. A/C Functional? (Y) Probably needs to be charged, 'cause I get the light. But it works. Has the A/C been converted from R12 to R134A? Not sure. Does the suspension require any attention? (N) The suspension isn't in tip-top shape, but it works properly. It just creaks, if you hit a crater. Tire Brand: Michelin Arctic Alpin Remaining Tread: Brand New Are All Tires Matched? (Y) Factory Wheels? (Y) Factory Wheel Center Caps Condition: Good Missing Caps? None Any Brake Components Replaced? (Y) New hoses, a caliper was leaking, and was replaced. Entire system flushed. Last Time Brake System Was Flushed? 2 Weeks Ago. Original Engine? (Y) Original Engine Rebuilt? (N) Does Engine require attention? (N) When was last tune up? I'm not sure. I hadn't gotten to it, yet. Does the engine, cooling system, power steering, or brake system leak any fluids? (N) How often do you change the oil? Since I've owned it, every 3,000 miles. Original Transmission? (Y) Original Transmission Rebuilt? (N) Does Transmission require attention? (N) It clunks, but it works properly. When was last Transmission Service? Last time I had the oil changed. Any Transmission leaks? (N) Have CV joints been replaced? I don't know. I have (some) receipts for this vehicle's service history; all of the service receipts from my end. Does the car have the owners? manual portfolio? (Y) For 90/91 Reattas only, does the owners? manual portfolio contain: Craftsmen?s Log (Y) Tire gauge (N) Flashlight (N) Buick Road Atlas (N) In General, What items need attention? The car is giving me problems with the electronics. Today, I turned the fog lights on, and the car shut off. The dash and radio blinked on and off. The ABS light came on, but it seems to work properly. The air conditioner needs attention, probably needs to be recharged. The left turn signal works, when the lights are off. If you turn them on, and they heat up, it doesn't want to work. Strangely enough, it will blink if you have the hazard lights on, regardless of whether the headlights are on. My Reatta Drives: Good I am the ? owner of this Reatta. Don't remember, I think that I may be the fourth owner. I have owned this Reatta for 4 Years.

Year: 1990 Coupe: Coupe W/Sunroof Mileage: 96,094 Considered Correct? (Y) Location: Milford, Pennsylvania Title: It's not a salvage, and as far as I know, it hasn't been in any major accidents. There was some repair done near the driver's door handle, but it seems to have been done correctly. Any Accident History? Obviously, something must've hit the driver's door, but I have no idea if it's on record. Mechanic says the window is a "junkyard" window. May be a "junkyard" door, but it looks alright, and it functions properly. No hang, or trouble closing. Asking Price: $700.00 Willing to take trade: Not Interested Exterior Color: Bright Red Interior Color: Saddle Paint Original? (Y) Paint Condition? Fair to Good Belt & Bumper Molding Color: Body Color Body Dents: (Y) There are little dings all over the car. Mostly on the roof, a few on the sides. Body Rust: (Y) There are two spots, both spots are painted over, but it is apparent that there is a little rust underneath. Both are very small. They are both on the roof. One one the edge of the windshield, the other on the edge of the sunroof. No apparent leaks, so I'm guessing they were cleaned and covered with touch-up. Windshield Chipped or Cracked? (N) Vent Glass Intact? (Y) Rubber surround molding for windshield condition? Fair. It's doesn't look new, but it doesn't leak. Rubber surround molding for rear window condition? Fair. Same as above. Out Side Mirrors Intact? (Y) Driver's side mirror doesn't work, but the motor runs properly. I think the armature, if there is any, is broken. Headlight Motors Function Correctly? (Y) The lights are not syncronized. The passenger comes up after the driver, but it comes up properly, and holds. Tail Light Lens: Cloudy/Cracked. The reflector on the passenger side was broken, but I have the piece. It was apparently glued back on, but came off when I polished the car. Interior Original? (Y) 16 Way Seats? (Y) Works (Y) Seat Condition? (Good) They're good, just dirty. Some elbow grease and a good leather cleaner would make them nice. Drivers interior door panel condition? Poor Passengers interior door panel condition? Fair Center console top armrest condition? Fair Door weather stripping condition? Fair. As I said before. It doesn't look great, but it doesn't leak. It's all in one piece, and not torn or missing. Headliner Condition? Poor Carpet Condition? Poor to Fair. It's complete, but it's dirty, and the rear section is faded. Original Floor Mats: (Y) Floor Mat Condition: Fair. Need to be properly cleaned. Would be good, if clean. Condition of Steering Wheel Leather: Poor. It's intact, but it's horribly dirty, and it's worn. Sun Roof? (Y) Works? (Y) Functional Keyless Entry? (Y) Both Remotes? (N) Just one. Problems with Electronic Dash items? (N) Power Windows Work Correctly? (Y) The driver's side track was broken, but I had it spot welded. It works, although not perfectly. I try not to put it down all the way, for fear that it'll get stuck in the track. I think the regulator needs to be adjusted or replaced. Power Seats Work Correctly? (Y) Power Door Locks Work Correctly? (Y) Power Antenna Work Correctly? (Y) Original Sound System? Not sure, the radio is after market, but I have the original radio. The speakers work properly. Factory CD Player? (N) Sound System Fully Functional? (Y) Aftermarket Sound System Equipment? (Y) Aftermarket CD player, single din, with enclosure plastic. A/C Functional? (Y) Probably needs to be charged, 'cause I get the light. But it works. Has the A/C been converted from R12 to R134A? Not sure. Does the suspension require any attention? (N) The suspension isn't in tip-top shape, but it works properly. It just creaks, if you hit a crater. Tire Brand: Michelin Arctic Alpin Remaining Tread: Brand New Are All Tires Matched? (Y) Factory Wheels? (Y) Factory Wheel Center Caps Condition: Good Missing Caps? None Any Brake Components Replaced? (Y) New hoses, a caliper was leaking, and was replaced. Entire system flushed. Last Time Brake System Was Flushed? 2 Weeks Ago. Original Engine? (Y) Original Engine Rebuilt? (N) Does Engine require attention? (N) When was last tune up? I'm not sure. I hadn't gotten to it, yet. Does the engine, cooling system, power steering, or brake system leak any fluids? (N) How often do you change the oil? Since I've owned it, every 3,000 miles. Original Transmission? (Y) Original Transmission Rebuilt? (N) Does Transmission require attention? (N) It clunks, but it works properly. When was last Transmission Service? Last time I had the oil changed. Any Transmission leaks? (N) Have CV joints been replaced? I don't know. I have (some) receipts for this vehicle's service history; all of the service receipts from my end. Does the car have the owners? manual portfolio? (Y) For 90/91 Reattas only, does the owners? manual portfolio contain: Craftsmen?s Log (Y) Tire gauge (N) Flashlight (N) Buick Road Atlas (N) In General, What items need attention? The car is giving me problems with the electronics. Today, I turned the fog lights on, and the car shut off. The dash and radio blinked on and off. The ABS light came on, but it seems to work properly. The air conditioner needs attention, probably needs to be recharged. The left turn signal works, when the lights are off. If you turn them on, and they heat up, it doesn't want to work. Strangely enough, it will blink if you have the hazard lights on, regardless of whether the headlights are on. My Reatta Drives: Good I am the ? owner of this Reatta. Don't remember, I think that I may be the fourth owner. I have owned this Reatta for 4 Years.

My Reatta is giving me all sorts of electrical problems, and the headaches are too expensive for me to consider repairing. At this point, unless you have a alot of time on your hands, it's only useful for parts. 1990 Buick Reatta - Red/Saddle - Sunroof - 96,000 and change. New digital dash, with upgrades. Old digital dash, 00 code. Aftermarket CD player. I have the old radio. Replacement driver's window motor. The original works, however. I had it repaired, after I bought the motor. Brand new headlight motors. Extra cranks, and rollers, courtesy of Barney Eaton, so they're better than OEM parts. New Michelin Arctic Alpin snow tires. Comes with the spare donut, perhaps a new tire on donut. Sunroof works. I have nearly $5,000 into the car, name your price. Private Message or Leave Reply. I'll get back to you with details.

My Reatta is giving me all sorts of electrical problems, and the headaches are too expensive for me to consider repairing. At this point, unless you have a alot of time on your hands, it's only useful for parts. 1990 Buick Reatta - Red/Saddle - Sunroof - 96,000 and change. New digital dash, with upgrades. Old digital dash, 00 code. Aftermarket CD player. I have the old radio. Replacement driver's window motor. The original works, however. I had it repaired, after I bought the motor. Brand new headlight motors. Extra cranks, and rollers, courtesy of Barney Eaton, so they're better than OEM parts. New Michelin Arctic Alpin snow tires. Comes with the spare donut, perhaps a new tire on donut. Sunroof works. I have nearly $5,000 into the car, name your price. Private Message or Leave Reply. I'll get back to you with details.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since The car can see a mechanic coming and refuses to act up in his presence, it appears that i will just have to start hanging likley parts on it until I find the culprit.</div></div> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I hate when they do that! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

My 2000 Regal had a reset button inside the fuse panel. I used to get the light often, but it turned out that the place that put the tires on, didn't clean the chromed aluminum wheels; the air leaked right out, slowly. Everytime I filled it up, I'd reset the light. If you have one, it'll be red, and it'll say reset on it. The button will be about the size of a fuse. You hold it down for about 5 seconds, while the car is on. However, Chevy and Pontiac products, I've noticed, don't have this convenient feature. At least the ones that I've dealth with. And the Olds Alero doesn't seem to have it either. You should look on the internet, to see how you can reset the panel... if you can easily reset it, without a handheld or the dealership. REA Buick in Port Jervis, NY, actually showed me that trick, and a few others. Strangely enough, the first mechanic to look at it, said all of my sensors had been stolen, and that's why it kept coming on. I later found out that he was mistaken. It doesn't have the same system as a Corvette, per say. It's actually quite simple. The valve stem was rubber, pulled through. I don't have the car anymore, 'cause it went through a telephone pole (thanks New Jersey drivers), but I just remember going through hell to find out how the system worked, and why the light kept coming on. If you have a slow leak, have the wheels cleaned properly, reset the tires, with new valve stems. Reset the light, or have it reset. That should solve the problem. It's actually a pretty good system, and holds up to a lot of wear. I assume that GM would've used the same system on vehicles of that year range. BTW, the Olds Aurora is a good car. That "Baby Northstar" is a sick engine. Edit: Make sure they put that splooge on the rim, to seal the tire, if you have a problem with a leak.

My 2000 Regal had the sensor on the valve. I love those things, expecially with incompetent tire-servicing personnel, and chromed aluminum wheels. Edit: Well, the system was associated with the valve.

Since people seem to be having a lot of idling problems, around this time of year, I can't help but wonder if it's the weather. I've looked at numerous postings, and come up with everything from electrical issues, to mechanical issues. Since I don't seem to be having any electrical problems, for the moment, I would assume that my problem is mechanical. My Reatta sat under a pine tree for two years, while the owner's son decided whether or not he was going to keep the car. The interior is nearly shot, and the exterior, although solid, needs a new paint job. Fit and finish have long since gone the way of the dodo bird. My lights aren't even exactly flush with the hood. The only thing that clinched me on the sale, was the fact that I opened the hood and the engine was clean. She ran fine, even with all of the old fluids. She probably needs a good tune-up, which I will get to by this summer. Replaced tons of expensive parts, and there's a lot more to go. I suspect that, regardless of my idle sensor, there may be an issue with the plugs. As Manik said, Reattae generally don't like dirty spark plugs. I conjecture that Reattae generally don't like Spring or Fall. One thing that I might mention: Marvel Mystery Oil It's never failed me. I just pulled her out of storage. Before the oil was changed, I substituted the missing quart (she was low) with Marvel Mystery Oil. I put some in the gas tank, and regardless of the fact that Gasohol had been sitting in the tank for nine months, she ran fine. The first week, I blew out white smoke here and there, but she was clean after that; one quart of Marvel in the crank case, at each change, and four ounces in the gas tank at each fill-up. Oh, and it's great for cleaning up my friend's aluminum engine block. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> It's pretty cheap, so you don't have to use your grandfather's can of Marvel, that's been sitting in the garage since 1930.

A couple of days ago, I discovered that at some point, during a past Hersey meet, I must've picked up a diagnostic booklet for my '90 Reatta. So of course, I did what any person would do. Diagnose my current vehicular problems. But I'm no savvy mechanic, as some of you here are... or were. The current problem is EO22: Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) low (TCC). The comment applied, is that the "Service Engine Soon" light will bother you. It does bother me. Most of the time it's on, sometimes it flips off for a little while, and comes back on again. Question: What does this mean, in Layman's Terms? Obviously, something is wrong with the throttle. My car's niggling idle problems attest to that. But what does the annotation of "Low" mean? Can this be adjusted, or is the sensor shot? Sometimes, she fails to turn over right away, and I wonder if the two problems are related? Now to the problems stored in history: I have an RO34 and RO61. R034 is: Open in Ignition 1 Feed to Deployment Loop. What does that mean? R061 is: Force Low or "Inflatable Restraint" indicator curcuit failure. The curcuit works fine, cause I see the light blink a couple of times, when I start up, and then it goes off. I assume this is okay, because the system is probably pre-inflating. Or testing. The telltale sign is the Inflatable Restraint light, but it never comes on, except at start-up. I assume that since these aren't current problems, they've been dealt with... and I haven't seen any other telltale signs. But if any of you have any comments, please feel free to do so.

Thanks guys, I'll look into it.

I believe they are the old cranks. I bought a set of new cranks and rollers from Barney, but I have to bring the car back to the mechanic, 'cause the window isn't being regulated properly, and gets stuck in the track. So I'll have him look at the cranks, to see if they're properly torqued and/or starting to wallow out. I asked him to do that before, but it seems he missed that... and the broken sideview mirror... and the "service engine soon" light... Thanks Nic. Whomever had the car before me, did a great job ripping apart various things, and not putting them back together. The mechanic I used, found evidence of a bubblegum and scotch tape approach to a busted track. He tack welded it back in place. Ugh, this is quickly becoming a nightmare.

Well, as you all know, I just recently paid through the giggy for a pair of headlight motors, thanks to my ignorance to alternatives. However, I noticed that now the driver's side light raises faster than the passenger's side light. They're not syncronized. The passenger side starts to move a half second after the driver starts. It's nothing of great importance, but I wondered if there was a way to syncronize the lights, or if there might be something more to this. Any thoughts?

I think that it's safe to say, that regardless of all of the little costs, that add up the the big cost, somebody will skim a little profit off of the top. Is it right? No. But in a world where money is harder and harder to come buy, people are doing everything and anything they can, to make ends meet. If that includes jacking somebody else, in order to bring food to the table... I find that many people, nowadays, don't seem to have a problem with that. Is is right? Again, no. But there's nothing that will change the nature of the beast. I will quote a cheesy <span style="font-style: italic">Talking Heads</span> song here: "Same as it ever was..." As for GM, we all know that big corporations don't get big, from having respectable business practices. In fact, in order to be as big as GM, you have to thieve the public. It's the unfortunate reality of things. Is it right? No... but nobody will do anything about it, because that's the nature of our economy. Whatever it may look like on paper... once you add the human element... ideologies become skewed. Again, the unfortunate nature of the beast. So it is, so it's always been. But something good has come out of all of this. We now know, thanks to the dedicated few, where to find reasonably priced parts, and even a few people who know how to repair them. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Or buy the part from GM Direct and give it to the dealer to install.</div></div> Yeah, I thought about that after I gave him the okay. Dee Dee Dee, I feel like a retard... which I may well be. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Nic, Well, Commonwealths usually have slightly different laws than other states. Usually, more "common" law is applied. Which translates to more commonsensical laws... except in Massachusetts, which is a fake Commonwealth, in my opinion. Too late for PASP, since the work is already being done. But that's good advice for any future questions that may arise. Jim and Barney are great, we all know. But I love all... well most of you guys... in a strictly public house beer drinking way, of course. <span style="font-weight: bold">You're all a great help.</span> Thanks. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Bill

Barney, I bought those "Barneycranks" from you, when in another thread, you stated that they may soon drop that part. I'm glad that I did. My mechanic has already put the order through, and started work on the headlights. I may have spent a fortune, but at least it'll be done. And I should be able to count on those new motors for a little while longer. I'll send you the old motors, if you'd like. They work perfectly, if the car's rear end is slightly lower then the front end. Sometimes they struggle to pull the lamp up, and need a little help through the manual crank. If the gears were truly "dusted", they wouldn't work at all, which leads me to believe that I'm buying parts that I don't need. Regardless, I can send them to you when he's done replacing them. I will make sure to get my old parts back, be sure of that. Have fun with them, if you like. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Bill

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">hm, sorry to hear that, could'nt you like print off the page from GMpartsdirect showing their price, and have the dealer match it or get close, or go to another dealer?</div></div> I plan on showing it to my mechanic, and thence to the dealer he works through. I may not get a resolution, but they will know where I'm coming from, and the look on the guy's face will be enough for me. Sometimes, things need not be said, for both parties to understand where the situation stands.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">But at least I am getting the part and keeping my car GM.</div></div> That's how I feel. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />