bobwhite

I bought a accumulator on eBay that is made for the Jaguar. The add said NEW BRAKE ACCUMULATOR REATTA TROFEO Jaguar JLM1907 Delco 25528382 Saab 4002267. It looked like an exact fit, installed easily. I did remove a bracket blocking removal, but I remember doing that when I used the original part years ago. I checked and the is still on eBay. It works fine and came with the "e" ring.

The accumulator arrived in two days from east coast to west coast thanks to the Post Office. I gave the brake pedal about 30 pushes to make sure all pressure was gone. But it still sprayed a little brake fluid as I unscrewed the accumulator. I struggled trying to get the accumulator all the way out until I remembered that it is a lot easier or only possible if the cross brace is removed. It blocks removal, but only two 13mm nuts on each side and it comes off. The rest took just a few minutes. I started the car and after 60 to 90 seconds, the pump stopped. It took seven pushes of the brake pedal to start the pump. The brakes now work like they used to.

My brakes started giving trouble and the ABS symbol on my 1990 Reatta would occasionally come on. Not feeling up to it, I took the car to a brake specialist that I have used for over thirty years. They said it was throwing a code 48, and I would need a "control unit". Turns out the Teves specialist no longer works there. They said they couldn't find any parts at all after much searching. So after spending $180, I took it home. First thing I found was that the accumulator must have a broken bladder as the pump comes on as soon as you press the pedal. My mechanic made no mention of this. Since the car is a daily driver, I couldn't wait for some of the other suppliers to get their stocks replenished, so I bought one for a Jaguar from eBay for $330 including priority mail. It is supposed to be the exact same part that the Reatta uses. I'll report back when I install it.

That's exactly how I set my clock, except for the seconds part. But the clock did not advance. This morning, the clock had advanced. So I set it to the proper time, and it is now working properly. I probably will never know why.

I replaced the two bulbs in the 3rd brake light. What a difference. They were much brighter and they don't get hot. It is true that they come on faster that filament bulbs. I followed my car and I could tell that the 3rd brake light did come on quicker than the lower ones. At 60 MPH, it could mean quite a few feet advance warning for the guy behind you. I used a Part Number: 1156-R45-T lamp that I got from https://www.superbrightleds.com/. I am very impressed. They come in several colors, make sure you get red, the same color of the lens.

My 1990 Reatta came back from my mechanic today. He changed the serpentine belt. I noticed the clock had the wrong time. I assumed he hadn't set it after disconnecting the battery. I set the clock, waited, and it never advanced. I disconnected the battery a few times assuming a reboot would do the trick. It just keeps the last time it was set. My wife thinks it was the mechanics fault, I don't see how it can be. Any ideas?

That did it! But it took about 8 to 10 tries. The fuse box door shows the fuses, but not which one is for the radio. Turns out to be the 10 amp fuse, The only 10 amp fuse in the fuse box on the passenger's side of the tunnel, At least in the 1990 model. Many Thanks

I just got my 1990 Reatta back from having the Throttle Position Sensor replaced. While driving it home I noticed the radio would not turn on and the letters "LOC" appeared on the radio display. The mechanic didn't clear any codes and I can't imagine what he could have done to cause this. I guess it could just be a coincidence. The radio was OK before the repair. Any ideas?

After a few near accidents because the Reatter swerved when appling the brakes, We started flushing the brakes every year to year and a half. That has been over ten years ago, and it hasn't swerved when braking again.

I've lubed the actuators and linkages so I thought I would try the relay. How do you get the kick panel off? Thanks

I'm having trouble with my door locking system. I replaced the solenoid in the driver's side door. That helped, but now both doors are sluggish when locking and unlocking. Looking at the service manual, it looks as if it is clustered with the cables under the driver's seat. I can't see anything like it under the seat. A older post said it was in the kick panel on the drivers side. I need to know where it is located, and how to get at it. I will be grateful for any help I get.

I had BBA repair my IPC back in January of 2013. They did a good job and I got it back in five days. Turnaround time for repair was just 1 day. Considering the price of $99, and the fast and excellent service, I recommend them strongly for IPC repair.

Our instrument cluster had been going dark for a second or two for a few months. It would come back on by itself, or a little slap on the top of the dash over the cluster would bring it back to life. Today it went dark and smoke came out of the vents above the cluster. It was a short trip home. After a few minutes in the garage with the key off, smoke still came out. So I disconnected the battery. I've never had a problem like this, so I would appreciate any suggestions on how to proceed. I am familiar with electronics and have a Fluke Multimeter.

I had the Parking Brake Assembly replaced in my '90 coupe on 5/6/2011. It cost me $756.88. It took them a good part of the day. Even though they are a Buick dealer that had once sold the Reatta, they didn't remember that the dash had to come partially out. I even supplied the part that I got from Finn. The original estimate was about $200 if I remember right. They said they were giving me a break because of the blown estimate. SURE

Solved the problem! Many Thanks. The TEST button still doesn't work, but my main problem is gone. Bob:)