Coop

Plastic beer cups (solo cups) in the exhaust tips to keep critters out of there too. Best easiest solution I've found for that.

The integrator value is more like your instant air fuel ratio correction and the BLM is more like your long term fuel trim in an OBD2 car. Over time the BLM will update to try and keep the integrator at 128. Either way a number like 119-121 wouldn't have me concerned at all, ECM's just doing it's job imo.

I had similair symptoms to yours once on our Reatta. I had just recently replaced the front brake pads and found the clips that hold the pad into the caliper piston were a little loose, pulled them out, stretched the clip out a little bit and put it all back together, problem solved. May not be the same case with yours though.

I vote Impala SS, those LT1 cars are sweet.

Ours did the same thing, if I had to venture a guess I'd say it's the master cylinder and they aren't cheap. btw, you aren't the same RedDevil that posts on TGO and NE3G are you?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You just need a Reatta convertible - unlimited headroom! </div></div> Somehow I think I'm pretty sure that I don't <span style="font-style: italic">need</span> another Reatta, lol. I told my wife she can get another one someday if she wants but not unless she has another car as a daily driver.

I used to use GMPD but thier shipping costs and shipping time were pretty unacceptable when I needed a part fast. Lately I've been using Rockauto.com and the service is spectacular, shipping is reasonable and fast. They even carry ACDelco parts.

Cool, I really like that color, same as my GTA I hear what you're saying about the height thing too, if I wasn't 6'2" I might have liked driving our Reatta better, lol.

Like Harry said it can be done but will need new lines run. I did it to our old '90 coupe, it wasn't exactly "easy", more time consuming than anything. Most aggravating part was running all new brake lines, Reatta's have one line that goes to the rear and tees off of the proportioning valve, the conventional master cylinder has the proportioning valves threaded into it so it needs a line to each wheel.

Ours did the same thing and I got one from the dealer for under $40, bolted right in and took about 15 minutes to install. gmpartsdirect.com probably has it even cheaper.

Wow, I couldn't imagine having that many Reattae. The one we had had plenty of work to go around, lol. And that is quite the car collection, personally I'd have kept the '91 Firebird vert - pretty rare bird as far as 3rd gen f-bodys go

Sold! Thanks!

I've seen one like that around here too - it has a red badge on the hood instead of the amber which is what always stuck out in my mind the most.

ttt Looks like about that time of the year again. If they don't sell soon they're going to ebay, although I'd rather sell them to one of the more legitimate Reatta enthusiasts here. (I know most here get parked for the winter but I know there's a couple daily drivers out there ) Only thing that has changed since the above post is my email address which is now coopman@suscom.net If you're interested please don't hesitate to contact me, <span style="font-style: italic">any</span> reasonable offer will be considered. I can also take pics of tread/wheel covers/etc. if anyone is interested.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The tornado airflow enhancer, or any other for that matter, is a complete waste of money. They are actually airflow restrictions... which should be obvious, but I guess it isn't.</div></div> What he said.

I'll agree the body, paint, and fit were very good on the Reatta and much better than alot of other GM's of the time. But the interior in ours was a rattle trap and most of it was attributed to all the plastic trim pieces and dash pieces, that was my only gripe with the quality of the car. Not as bad as my f-body though, talk about rattles. It was very difficult to take anything dash or console related apart without a little plastic tab breaking here or a screw stripping out there, maybe when it was new, but not 13 years old.

There might be a separate switch for things like shutting down cruise control and the torque converter lockup that is wired directly to the pcm. The brake light switch usually does just that and nothing more.

Ours leaked too and it was only about $35 at the dealer and probably less from gmpartsdirect.com, bolted right in in about 5-10 minutes. Part# was 26028403 for our 1990.

I never claimed that one piece of hardware did the reading, burning, erasing, etc. What I don't know is, is the passkey info in the prom itself? I was under the assumption that it was. If it is, it would need to be read into a program, passkey info changed, burned to another prom to be reinserted into the mem-cal and that's it, no? Whether he does the work himself or has somebody do it for him is up to him. Someone who already has the equipment and experience could do it pretty quickly I would think.

Here's a link to Moates site, if nothing else it's a good read www.moates.net

Hmm, don't know if I'd do that. I'm not sure of the specifics of differences between ECM wiring and whatnot on the prom between an '89 and a '90. If you know absolutely for sure that the only difference between the '89 and '90 prom is the passkey then sure it will work. But I have a feeling there are other things changed. I'm not real sure on the specifics but I know there are things out there that can read all the info off of your current prom onto a pc. There are then programs (usually free) that can display what's what and you can make changes to it and burn a new chip for the memcal. Chips are usually cheap ($5-$6), and all the hardware I talked about is usually in the neighborhood of about $50. Tuners for OBD1 cars do it all the time and the passkey part of the file is commonly taken out. A search of the net can usually find you more info than you want to or need to know. I know Moates sells alot of stuff like that, but again I'm not real familiar with the specifics of E-bodies or if thier stuff supports it.

Oh yeah, if you do option 1 (de-programming the prom), you still have to ground the starter enable relay - black/yellow wire. If you get the trimpot, then that's all you have to do. And the trimpot will only work as long as the passkey module is working etc, it basically simulates a key always in the ignition switch.

The passkey module does 2 things. It disables the starter enable relay - easy enough to bypass. And it sends a 30Hz square wave to the ECM. When the ECM sees this it enables the fuel injectors. There are 2 ways around this. One is to have the prom (mem-cal) in the ECM replaced, modified, etc. to not look at the passkey input. The other is to measure the resistance of the pellet in your key with an ohmmeter. Get a trimpot or small potentiometer and tune it until it is the same resistance (put a dab of loc-tite on the adjuster so it can't turn) and basically wire it into the decoder module - easiest way is to cut the two thin white-ish wires going from your lock cylinder down the steering column and splice the trimpot in it's place. Usually when passkey goes bad it's almost always the wires break off right at the back of the lock cylinder. Hope this helps.

I've never had any problems with them. They did screw up one order, but they owned up to it and reimbursed all shipping and part charges, and had fedex come right to the house to get the wrong parts the next day. Although I haven't used them since they started using dhl.

I can say from experience not to buy <span style="font-style: italic">any</span> type of part from autozone, it just especially applies to alternators and starters. List of parts I've gotten at Autozone for various vehicles that have crapped out within a year: 2 starters 3 alternators 2 struts 1 set of brake pads (already broken in the box) 1 transmission mount 1 master cylinder 1 brake booster 2 brake pedal switches (different vehicles) 4 wheel cylinders 1 washer fluid pump 1 rack and pinion assy 1 MAF sensor 1 Transmission filter List of parts I've gotten at Autozone that were not defective: Oil Oil Filter Do yourself a favor and get an alternator somewhere else when this one dies, cause it will.