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bigfoots98

Slim Jim Throttle valve adjustment HELP

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Is there anyone out there with any info on adjusting the throttle valve linkage on 61-64 Oldsmobile "Slim Jim" or Roto-hydramatic 10 transmission? Hit or miss is an exercise in frustration and the relationship between the TV lever and the manual lever is critical to proper operation. I'm sure some of you know how funkily this tranny can shift even when everything is set dead on. Borroughs made a tool (BT-33-1) which is, of course, obsolete. Does anyone have this tool laying around? If I could even get the proper dimentions I could fabricate one myself. Any info would be greatly apreciated. HELP! I have no full-throttle kick-down!!!!

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Thanks, but that's not gonna help. I have the '64 Factory manual. It details how to make the adjustment but a tool(BT-33-1) is needed to properly setup the relationship between the TV lever and the manual lever. I either need the tool, or someone who knows the dimentions of the tool so I can make one.

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I don't even want to hear about a Slim Jim. The green Starfire has suddenly developed a seal leak, and as usual no one here will touch it. So it has to go to Greensboro or Charlotte for service.

Seems to me that if someone can rebuild a Powerglide or TorqueFlite, they could do a HydraMatic. They work off the same principles.

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I was in the used auto parts business during the 60s and 70s. The slim jim was bad news in the mid sixties, matter of fact our biggest customers were the trans shops. We had some real decent builders back then and they wouldn't touch one.

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Finally figured out the info I needed to fabricate a tool. Basically, the TV lever hole should be Just under 6"(5 61/64")from the center of the manual lever. Once that's set, you make the linkage adjustments as outlined in the Olds Service Manual #2. Having this set properly has made a TREMENDOUS difference in the smoothness of the first shift. So what's the big deal with a 'Slim Jim'? Not a dang thing...

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How much to make another one? I'm interested. Also curious how you figured out the proper dimension.

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As much trouble as I've gone through for this I wouldn't charge you a thing. Glad to help someone keep their Olds rolling. To keep it simple, take a piece of stiff wire about 6 1/2" long and bend it into an 'L' shape with the long side just a hair under 6"(I think I came up with something around 5 62/64). Now, stick the short end into the hole at the center of the manual lever so is pivots there. Hold the rod out towards the TV lever and bend the lever if needed to bring it to the end of the wire. This should get you pretty close. How'd I figure it out? A lot of math and the not-to-scale drawing in the service manual. The same tool is used to set pedal height and the book gives that dimention. 30 minutes of algebra I thought I had forgotten and I came up with the approximate overall length of the tool and of the indexes for the TV setting. Good luck!

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i need to get one of these things too.ive had a 1st to 2nd shifting problem since i bought my 64 wagon.id like to get it shifting decent over the winter since i cant afford the turbo 350 swap yet.send me a PM or email me rev616@gmail.com if you could give me the details on the tool or hook me up with one..thanks

chris

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Has anyone tried this adjustment with any luck? My buddy and I are trying to do as I type this. 5 61/64 isn't enough length. We were about a 1/2 inch short. We bent the arm to this spec, now we are WAY off at the bellcrank. Ran out of threads on the TV rod, and the threaded end of the rod hits the bellcrank. I wish someone had one of those tools... frown.gif

Paul

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If you are referring to BT-33-1, I have the tool.

The distance between the holes (center to center) is

4 and 9/16 "

The distance between the center of the stud and the center of the closest hole is 2 and 3/32 ". There is a 1/2 " off set between the stud and the closest hole.

The distance between the center of the stud and the farthest hole is

6 and 1/2 "

Try Bill Sawyer 120 Monger Rd. Rockwood TN. 37854

423 354 4695 Evenings

I bought mine from him.

Hope this helps, Dave Holt

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I forgot to tell you , you must get the carb adjusted as perfect as you can FIRST. Then go thru the entire adustment procedure step by step. The throttle and kick down linkages are super sensitive to the carb settings.

Good luck, Dave Holt

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I just had a Slim Jim rebuilt by Tom Kasper in South Elgin, IL. He often advertises in JWO & has been working on these transmissions since they were new. I picked up the car yesterday & asked him about this tool & adjustment.

He said he's never had any special tools for the Slim Jim & sets up the linkage entirely by adjusting the upper TV rod at the engine.

I subsequently checked the linkage on three Slim Jims- two rebuilt by Tom & one unrebuilt but shifting well. With the TV crank at its rear-most point of travel, the distance from the hole in the TV crank to the center of the manual shaft (gear selector shaft) was about 6 1/2 inches on all the cars.

BTW, the transmission now shifts great. Previously the car was almost undriveable, as the 1-2 shift was so harsh & abrupt that the car would lurch with the shift. (Yes, I'm convinced that the Slim Jim is a 3-speed; it says so right in the '61 manual, & when a guy like Tom Kasper tells me they're all 3-speeds, I believe him!) wink.gif

During the 1-2 upshift in a Slim Jim, the front coupling empties & the front clutch engages, so the method of power transmission through the unit changes from a fluid to a mechanical coupling. This transition is modulated & cushioned by the front clutch accumulator valve. Within the accumulator valve circuit, there is a tiny wave spring in the valve body called the front clutch bypass valve. On my transmission,this wave spring was broken, which apparently put additional stress on the front clutch accumulator valve. Eventually one of the larger springs in the accumulator failed, which resulted in zero cushioning action during the upshift.

According to Tom Kasper, no one makes these little wave springs anymore. Furthermore, they are pressed into the valve body, which makes them almost impossible to remove without breaking them. So, I wound up with a valve body from another Slim Jim that had good wave springs (there are actually TWO of them, the other is for the neutral clutch.)

I learned more about Slim Jims from talking with this guy for 10 minutes & looking at his workbench than I'd ever learned from trying to read the manual....

Chuck

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This spring is causing what most people are complaning about. The shift from 1st to 2nd. I learned more from the posts here than anywhere else. So what does it cost to have one rebuilt correctly?

Thanks,

Pat

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Paul, there are two tools required to make the correct adjustments to the slim jim.

The first step is to make sure the carburetor is dead on, if not no adjustments to the linkages can be made with any positive effect.

BT (Boroughs Tool) 38-8 sets the accelerator height. It measures 5" from the center of the hole to the opposite end of the tool. Thats the second step in making the adjustments. You can make that adj. with a ruler.

BT 33-1 is then used to make the adjustments.

The pin is 5/32" dia.X 7/16 ' long.

The holes are all 5/16" Dia.

From the center of the pin to the first hole is 2 and 1/16"

From the center of the first hole to the center of the 2nd hole is 4 and 7/16".

From the center of the pin to the center of the 2nd hole is 6 and 1/2 ".

The offset is 1/2". I have the name of the guy who has these and will let you know as soon as I can find the info.

I hope this helps, but the carb. has to be right before you can adj. the tranny.

Dave Holt

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Thanks, Dave. I appreciate the info. I'd take the guys name if you can find it. Might be a good thing to have around, just in case. The carb has been rebuilt and is set up just fine. We guessed on this Slim Jim adjustment as best we could, and did the rest by they service manual and Service Guild supplement. Since then, I've had Tom Kasper check it out and he said no further adjustment is necessary. But it still might be a good thing to have around.

Paul

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The mans name is:

Bill Sawrey

120 Monger Road

Rockwood Tennessee 37854

He has an unlisted phone #

I am trying to make contact by mail

and get a phone #

His E Bay Id is TOOLZGUY but I have not

seen anything lately.

Will post if I get anything

Dave

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I have discovered that the BT 31-8 is listed as a Starfire tool. It is 3/16' longer than the BT31-1 measurement for setting the accelerator pedal height.

Don't know why since all the linkages are the same for any 1961-62 4V carb.

I have a 100% stock two barrel 1961 (30Koriginal miles) that is still factory adjusted and I will check both tools against that to see if there is a difference. I finally made contact with Sawrey and he is looking for both tools. If he cannot come up with anything I will copy the tools I have and make them available.

Dave

The pic is the car with 30K miles, I took it to Denver after restoring it

to show it to the folks (pictured) I bought it from. They were thrilled to

see the old car again.

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Dave- put me on the list for those tools if you decide to make them.

Last time I checked with Sawrey, probably seven years ago, he was out of the Slim Jim adjustment tools. I always thought they looked like they'd be simple to duplicate, but without having one for a pattern...

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Good deal, Dave. By the way, was your car in Minneapolis (Bloomington) for the 2004 OCA Nationals? I think it was, and if so, you've got an early '61 Starfire for sure!

There was an Azure Mist '61 Starfire convertible (as they all were) a couple of years back at the Motorcar Portfolio in Canton, Ohio; it was there and gone in a hurry, before I had a chance to see it in person.

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Yes, that was me. Got lucky and received the "Best of Class" at that Nationals.

Lately though I see a lot of cars over restored with high gloss every where, chassis, under

the hood etc. I have to admit they really look nice but they did not come that way from the

factory. You also never saw a car in the showroom with shiny tires or rubber trim. It was always the natural dull new rubber look.

Not complaining, it's just hard to compete against some of those things side by side.

I hope to participate at Reno next year and Des Moines in 2012.

Don't know how long this old (75) man can keep it going.

I have a 1961 2DR coupe that is the twin of the Starfire, 32OOO original miles

Hope to bring both to the Nationals.

Thanx for the response, I'll get the tools out as soon as I can

but have been very busy lately.

Dave Holt

The pic's are the Starfire at the top of Pikes Peak

The coupe in Denver , I took it back to show the folks I

bought it from after restoring it.

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