Starfire61

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Everything posted by Starfire61

  1. Thanks very much for the suggestion to check out the Multibeam threads. The information is extremely helpful. That is indeed the system that was originally on the car- I had no idea it was so precise. Still trying to nail-down whether I have the correct reflectors, but you've definitely given me some direction. Thanks again!
  2. I recently acquired a 1938 Olds F-Series convertible that has been converted to sealed beam headlights. In hoping to undo the conversion, I've managed to find a set of lenses that are correct for the Olds. These came in a batch of headlight parts that are mostly '39 Cadillac. I'm unsure which of these Cadillac parts might work on the Olds. The Cadillac buckets and aiming mechanisms clearly have a right side/left side orientation and look as though they'll fit into the Olds without difficulty. However, the reflectors are a puzzle. Both the headlight and parking light bulbs are offset slightly to one side of the reflector, and it's the same sided offset in both reflectors. I would think that the reflectors would be mirror images of each other if they were left & right sided, so I can't quite figure out what I'm dealing with. Why the offset? Did the '39 Cadillac have left/right sided headlight reflectors? FWIW, the '38 Olds master parts book lists only one headlight reflector for both sides of the F and L series of cars- part #922315. I'd be grateful if anyone can shed any light into whether these '39 Cadillac reflectors with their matching bulb offsets would be appropriate for a '38 Olds, and if not, what other headlight parts of the era might properly interchange. Buying this car was a big leap out of my early-60's comfort zone. Any advice or assistance would be much appreciated!
  3. I recently acquired a 1938 Olds F-Series convertible that has been converted to sealed beam headlights. In hoping to undo the conversion, I've managed to find a set of lenses that are correct for the Olds. These came in a batch of headlight parts that are mostly '39 Cadillac. I'm unsure which of these Cadillac parts might work on the Olds. The Cadillac buckets and aiming mechanisms clearly have a right side/left side orientation and look as though they'll fit into the Olds without difficulty. However, the reflectors are a puzzle. Both the headlight and parking light bulbs are offset slightly to one side of the reflector, and it's the same sided offset in both reflectors. I would think that the reflectors would be mirror images of each other if they were left & right sided, so I can't quite figure out what I'm dealing with. Why the offset? Did the '39 Cadillac have left/right sided headlight reflectors? FWIW, the '38 Olds master parts book lists only one headlight reflector for both sides of the F and L series of cars- part #922315. I'd be grateful if anyone can shed any light into whether these '39 Cadillac reflectors with their matching bulb offsets would be appropriate for a '38 Olds, and if not, what other headlight parts of the era might properly interchange. Buying this car was a big leap out of my early-60's comfort zone. Any advice or assistance would be much appreciated!
  4. An additional consideration towards ascertaining a value is knowing whether or not the car is a business coupe or a sport coupe. Business coupes had a trunk, while sport coupes had a rumble seat. Each bodystyle was available in the short wheelbase 6-cylinder and long-wheelbase 8-cylinder platforms. Does the car have a six or an eight? Trunk or rumble seat?
  5. The 394 in my '62 Starfire convertible is not original to the car. I'd like to find a cylinder head with an engine number that corresponds more closely with the car's build date of early April. Engine numbers within a range of 10-20K of G550000S would work. These numbers are stamped on a flat on the driver's side head that's located just below the lower edge of the valve cover and between the two inner spark plug holes. Willing to consider single heads or sets. Thanks! Chuck
  6. Thanks for the reply! PM sent. Chuck
  7. Thanks for the suggestions thus far. The pieces are rather intricate. I suppose they're more akin to fender or trunk scripts as opposed to a solid badge or emblem, so I apologize for my semantics. I've attached some pics of the boat and the scripts. Having never cast anything myself, I'm not sure if this would be the best project for a rookie, but if all else fails, I guess I'll give it a shot... Chuck
  8. Is anyone familiar with any businesses doing this sort of casting work on a small scale? I have two broken, chromed pot-metal badges from a vintage boat and would like to have them duplicated. Finding replacements is out of the question. Searching around online hasn't brought much success thus far. Chuck
  9. Mike, I'm glad you enjoyed the pics. Sorry for not being in touch for awhile- this time of year is always jammed with too many things to do. Steve, I'd love to have the car finished this year, but I think 2015 is looking more realistic (I hope.) The work on the interior is just beginning, and I haven't done a thing with the engine yet...though the transmission is ready to go. Finally seeing it in paint these past few weeks really has me motivated to bring it over the finish line as soon as possible. I've always liked Wedgewood Mist on these cars- it just doesn't photograph well under the fluorescent lights at the shop, but I'm very pleased when I see it in person. No doubt it will look even better wearing a fresh set of aluminum panels!!! Chuck
  10. Glad I could help, John. Hope all goes well with the project. BTW, the car looks great with the new top! Chuck
  11. This is not a fun project. Take out the console. If you're not skinny or limber, you also may want to take out the shifter. If your car has AC, you'll need to remove the duct that runs across the bottom of the dash. There are three nuts holding the clock to the back of the dash- two on the bottom and one on the top. You should be able to reach the lower two nuts at this point. Unfortunately, the upper nut is sandwiched between the top of the clock assembly and the bottom of the radio. Depending on the tools you have available, and your dexterity, you may not be able to reach the upper nut. In that case, you'll need to remove the radio, which pulls out thru the front of the dash after you free up the faceplate, remove the rear support bracket, and disconnect all the wiring. You may also need to remove the switches for the courtesy lights, top, and power antenna from underneath the upper lip of the dash, or you may not have enough clearance for the radio to slide out. Now you can remove the clock. I'm a big fan of keeping things original, but this is one time where I highly recommend doing a quartz conversion on the clock. Trust me, this is not something you'll want to do more than once. Good luck! Chuck
  12. The 2007 thread that IDed Florence Henderson's Starfire was one of the most memorable to ever appear on this forum. However minimal, I'm glad to have played a role in it. Todd, thank you very much for the link to the podcast. It is a fabulous effort on your part. I can only imagine the convolutions you must have gone through just to get both Florence Henderson and Bill Hayes on the line simultaneously, let alone to reminisce for an hour about working with Olds over 50 years ago. I knew of of Florence Henderson's involvement in Oldsmobile commercials, but I had no idea about the lavish stage productions that the division apparently mounted to introduce the new models to its dealers. What a truly fascinating glimpse into another time. Show tunes or not, this podcast is well-worth a listen for anyone intersted in Oldsmobiles of this era! Great work, Todd, & thanks again! Chuck
  13. Here's a picture of a red interior in a '62 Starfire. The front seats in this car have been poorly done in vinyl. The colors are off, and some of the perimeter piping was omitted. The rear is the original leather and gives a reasonable idea of how it's supposed to look. In your picture, the area to the left appears to be a slightly lighter shade of red, which is correct. However, it appears that the entire center section of the seat was done in a darker red- this instead should be two dark sections divided by a vertical band of the lighter color. Perhaps this is something else you can use to drive the price down.... I've been to Downers Grove a few times. It's a nice cruise. Unfortunately, by the time I drive over there after work on a Friday, it's often difficult to find a good spot. I usually wind up going to the one in downtown Wheaton instead- it's close enough that I can walk back to the house if necessary. Chuck
  14. I second what Paul said about the trans. I just had a Slim-Jim rebuilt that had sat for many years. Most of the clutch plates had lost their friction material, and the rear carrier assembly was locked-up from the sludge that remained of the old trans fluid. A few years ago, I paid $4400 for a rust-free '62 Starfire that ran. (Not well, but at least the car could be driven.) I'd politely suggest to your friend that he gets the car running before paying $5K- you could be out close to another $2K if the transmission needs another rebuild. All that aside, these are great cars that perform well and turn a lot of heads. Ron, I'm located in Wheaton and have several full-sized 61's and 62's. Feel free to PM me if you want to talk on the phone. I have some time off next week and would be willing to meet up with you to check out the car if it's local. Chuck
  15. Having just had a '62 Starfire Slim-Jim rebuilt in the past week, I have been watching this thread with interest and trying to organize my thoughts and information before posting anything. First of all, your existing transmission is correct for a '62 Starfire and may well be original to the vehicle. In your photo of the ID tag, the first four characters are likely OB-62. Olds used O, OA, OB, and OC markings to designate which transmission matched the different versions of the 394. The OB series of transmissions was used only in the Starfire- they alone had a 13-tooth speedometer drive gear, and they may have had a slightly different valve body inside. The driven speedometer gear has either 31 or 32 teeth and is easily removable from the driver's side of the transmission. By checking the markings or counting the teeth on it, it can be checked against the manual to determine the original tire size on the car. (31 = 900 x 14, 32 = 850 x 14) The transmission I just had rebuilt had sat for an extremely long time. I purchased it in order to have a correct OB-62 Slim Jim in the car that I'm restoring. The rebuilder has been doing them for 40+ years and told me it was one of the worst he'd seen. I suspect yours wouldn't be much better. I can elaborate later, but the point raised in an earlier post about having the transmission done by someone comfortable with them and with ready access to a variety of hard parts is spot-on. Regarding the linkage, I think it's easy to get confused by looking at a couple of the pics that you posted in post #16. The parts diagram and the photo of the Slim-Jim on the bench both illustrate parts needed for a column-shift car. I ought to know, since that photo is of the Dynamic 88 transmission that once resided in my Starfire. There are three levers on the Slim-Jim. From front to back, they are: The bellcrank, the manual lever, and the TV lever. The bellcrank is not connected directly to the inside of the transmission. All it does is act as a fulcrum for other external linkage. Column-shift cars have two bellcranks mounted to the same shaft, which are seen in your illustration, and on my Dynamic 88 transmission. The shift relay bellcrank connects linkage from the steering column to the manual lever and is not present or necessary on a Starfire. You don't have it, and you don't need it. The lower bellcrank connects the TV linkage from the carburetor down to the TV lever, which is crucial to timing the shift points in a Slim Jim. It's remarkable how sensitive these transmissions can be to TV linkage adjustment....but that's for another set of posts. Bottom line, your lower bellcrank and associated linkage appear intact, though I can't see the TV lever in the pics. The manual lever selects for PNDSLR. The trans is in Park when the lever is rotated all the way clockwise, and Reverse when it's all the way counterclockwise. The piece attached to the manual lever that's pointing to 4 o'clock in your third photo in post 16 does not belong on the car and must have been added in order to adapt the Cutlass shifter. Besides the shifter itself, you are missing several pieces of Starfire-specific linkage that attach underneath the car. The rod from the shifter connects to a part labeled the relay bellcrank, which swivels on a large bracket that's bolted to the floorpan. The relay bellcrank, in turn controls the manual rod, which is a long, adjustable rod that sets the manual lever to the proper position when the shifter is moved. Basically, this assembly takes the place of the shift relay bellcrank that's adjacent to the lower bellcrank on the column-shift cars. Here are some pics from the manual illustrating the Starfire linkage, as well as a few photos showing the corresponding parts on a '62 Starfire. Chuck
  16. I've had several cars moved by Van Dam Trucking over the past few years and can't say enough about them. It's a one-man operation, so you're always dealing with the owner. If you don't need point-to-point service within a specified time window, the service is great and the price is very competitive. Auto Transport, Car Shipping, Motorcycle Shipping - Van Dam Trucking - Fargo, North Dakota Chuck
  17. Looking at your other pics, it appears that you're only running two belts. On an AC car, there should be two belts to the generator/alternator and compressor, and one to the power steering pump. How many belts will fit on your balancer? Water pump pulley? I also noticed that your glass fuel filter assembly has an inlet from the fuel pump and an outlet to the carb. Factory AC cars had fuel filters that had an inlet, an outlet, AND a return line that ran back to the gas tank. So you have a non-AC fuel filter setup. If you had a return line, it would be a rubber hose running down to a rigid line at the frame. Take a look at the inside of the frame rail below the passenger door. If you have one fuel line, it's very likely a non-AC car. If you have two parallel lines running the length of the rail, it's probably an AC car. I don't know what that Alt Fld spot is for on the fuse block.....I'll have to look on my car when I have a chance. Chuck
  18. Looking at the other threads on this car, I noticed that the fan shroud is of the style used on the non-AC cars, which again suggests to me that the AC was added. AC cars also used a dished power steering pump pulley, as opposed to a flat pulley on the non-AC cars. Your flat pump pulley is consistent with a non-AC car. There are a few other things you could check......Non-AC cars used a 3-core radiator, while AC cars used a 4-core. (I don't know if a non-AC fan shroud could even accommodate a 4-core radiator.) AC cars had a 3-groove harmonic balancer. AC cars used a clutch fan, while non-AC cars had a stamped, 4-blade fan with no clutch. Carburetors on AC cars had a small fitting called an "idle compensator valve" located between the secondaries. AC cars also had inner passenger fenders fitted with a large, removable plate that allowed for access to the evaporator assembly. Please keep us posted with your findings! Chuck
  19. Interesting to see the firewall behind the regulator and find no evidence of mounting holes for an alternator-style regulator..... Still, the firewall has clearly been fiddled-with at some point, as the car would have come from the factory with the firewall painted in the same color as the body. Somebody went thru the trouble of stripping the hardware off of the firewall and painting it black. Mike's comment on the data plate gave me an idea. Every '62 Olds I've seen that has factory air conditioning has an "N" stamped on the data tag under Accessories. It's my understanding that major accessories that required attention at the Fisher body plant were typically coded into the tag. For instance, an AC car would require different cutouts on the firewall stamping than a non-AC car, so the people assembling the body would need to be sure that the correct firewall configuration was built into the body. Anyway, this car lacks the "N" on the cowl tag. Given the "creativity" used to alter the seats and console, I wonder if somebody scavenged an AC setup from another car and installed it here. That could explain the other regulator on the fender, repainting the firewall, and the scary wiring harness. Adding AC to one of these is a big job, but it's certainly possible. When the car gets disassembled to the point that the blower unit on the firewall is removed, it will be revealing to see if the firewall openings appear factory or homemade. BTW Mike, Lansing-built cars didn't code for convertible top color. Southgate did, and I think Doraville did as well. I'm not sure about the other plants. My '62 Starfire convertible was Lansing-built in the first week of April and carries body #2033. Apparently it took about six weeks for the main Olds plant to build just 381 more. Chuck
  20. I agree with Paul about the regulators. The regulator shown on the firewall adjacent to the brake booster was only used on generator-equipped cars. Cars with an alternator used the smaller-style regulator, which was mounted in the same location on the firewall, though the mounting holes were different due to the smaller footprint. A look at the data plate would indeed be helpful in determining what belongs on this car. BTW, part #3 is the reserve tank for the vacuum trunk release. It allows the trunk to be opened automatically after the engine is turned off. Part #5 also carries the power for the convertible top. The harness looks frightening. I am not aware of anyone making an off-the-shelf reproduction of this harness. I suspect you'd have to send it somewhere to have it duplicated using the original fuse block, as that's not available either. I briefly looked into this a few years ago when confronted with a badly hacked underhood harness in a '62 Starfire coupe. (But not as bad as this...) The lengthy down time for the car, the effort of removing the harness, and the substantial expense of reproducing it led me to repair the existing harness. It was a difficult and time consuming task, and one which I wouldn't suggest you attempt unless you have another car that you can use as a reference. There are two branches of the main harness that originate at the fuse block. One passes through the firewall to the engine compartment, while the other passes upwards and across the dash toward the passenger door. The entire fuse block and harness were assembled and installed as a unit and thus are not separable from each other. The main harness is deeply embedded in the car- extracting it entirely will likely require you to drop the steering column and remove the dashboard.....then you'll be on the slippery slope towards complete disassembly. Chuck
  21. The dash and steering wheel on this car appear to be stock 1962. I think this is a '62 Starfire that was modified into a concept for the auto show circuit. Somewhere I've seen other photos of the car, but I don't know anything further about it. Chuck
  22. Based on your comments, I assume you now have the car in your possession? What does it say on the extra tag on the driver’s door jamb? Have you had the car on a lift, or at least been able to inspect the underside? The frames on ’61-2 Oldsmobiles are notorious for rusting out, especially on convertibles. This is not a particularly glamorous aspect of these cars, and it’s unfortunately one that’s often overlooked by first-time buyers. If the body and floors are rusty, be very suspicious of the frame. The first place to check is the take off of the wheel arches in front of the rear axle, followed by the rails that run underneath the doors. If either of these areas is questionable, you’re looking at some serious structural compromise, as well as a safety issue, the severity of which may require the removal of the body from the frame. All of your further plans for the car will hinge upon the condition of the frame. If you lack the ability to raise the car yourself, I recommend finding a local shop who could do it for you and provide you with an objective opinion of the car’s integrity. Assuming the frame is solid, it would perhaps be possible to get the car running and fix things a bit at a time. My personal inclination would be to blow it apart and start over, but that’s a topic for another time. You MUST inspect the frame thoroughly before proceeding with anything else. Chuck
  23. It looks nice, but there appears to be a hole in it above the rear wheel..... What color was the original top? Chuck
  24. WOW! That's a nice car!!!!!!!!!!! Chuck