hursst Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 Hello, I'm trying to remove my engine on my 1930 Plymouth 30U to get it rebuilt. In order to do this, the steering column must be removed. In order to do that, the steering wheel must be pulled, so the steering column and steering box can be removed thru the firewall. Attached is a photo of the steering wheel after the clum switches have been removed. I've since drilled two holes in the steering wheel metal in order to install a steering wheel puller. I tried using this, and the steering wheel won't budge. At a certain amount of torque, the threaded part of the puller will start to move off of the center threaded portion of the steering wheel. I don't know what to do now, the steering wheel will not budge. Does anyone know a secret to this, is there something I'm missing here? It feels like it's welded on, no motion whatsoever. Thanks for any help or tips. -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryLime Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 The best source for those C-clamp steering wheel pullers is the old style military surplus houses. I got mine from the place between Hershey and Williamsport on PA RT 147 with the tank out front. One of those Murphy's Law tools. If you get one you probably won't need it again, which ain't really a bad thing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hursst Posted April 5 Author Share Posted April 5 1 hour ago, 60FlatTop said: The best source for those C-clamp steering wheel pullers is the old style military surplus houses. I got mine from the place between Hershey and Williamsport on PA RT 147 with the tank out front. One of those Murphy's Law tools. If you get one you probably won't need it again, which ain't really a bad thing. Thanks. Do you have a better idea on the location for the place on Rt 147? I'm not familiar with that place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 30 years ago I made my own steering wheel puller. It was not "Rocket Science" and has worked well since and many friends have used it. ( see attached photo's). Install the 2 halves under the steering wheel and use a 2 arm puller. I cut the hole with a hole saw. The straight pull is what allows the wheel to come loose. "Life is Good". 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60ch Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 On 4/5/2024 at 10:37 AM, hursst said: Hello, I'm trying to remove my engine on my 1930 Plymouth 30U to get it rebuilt. In order to do this, the steering column must be removed. In order to do that, the steering wheel must be pulled, so the steering column and steering box can be removed thru the firewall. Attached is a photo of the steering wheel after the clum switches have been removed. I've since drilled two holes in the steering wheel metal in order to install a steering wheel puller. I tried using this, and the steering wheel won't budge. At a certain amount of torque, the threaded part of the puller will start to move off of the center threaded portion of the steering wheel. I don't know what to do now, the steering wheel will not budge. Does anyone know a secret to this, is there something I'm missing here? It feels like it's welded on, no motion whatsoever. Thanks for any help or tips. -Chris A couple of suggestions, You have good info on which puller to buy or to fabricate. I found that a plug like the one pictured is needed for stuck steering wheels. You would put the nut back on the steering shaft ,screw it down all the way to bottom it then back it off 2 turns or just enough so the nut is above the top of the steering shaft. place the plug into the shaft and attach your puller. this will save the threads on the shaft from distorting ang give you a true center that will not move when you put the coals to the puller. The shaft is tapperd at the top so it only has to break contact with the steering wheel taper. A few hits with a hammer may be required. When it pops your steering wheel will not be damaged and you shaft threads will be saved. The plug should be a slip fit into the steering shaft. The size of the center drilled location on the top of the plug would match the puller that you using. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cron1984 Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 I had a rough time pulling the wheel on my 38 Oldsmobile, which looks somewhat similar to your wheel. I had this custom puller made, put the nut back on the wheel a couple turns and used an old socket between the bolt and the nut. I put some cut radiator hose between the ring and the wheel. It took some whacks with a mallet, I couldn’t believe I didn’t break the Bakelite, but it finally popped off. Way more stubborn than I ever thought a wheel would be. Hope that helps. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hursst Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 Thanks for all the great tips. I'm going to attempt leaving the wheel and steering box on at this point. It may be easier for me to remove the transmission, clutch, and flywheel, and leave the burdensome bellhousing in place on the chassis so I don't have to remove the burdensome steering wheel and steering box. If that doesn't work, then I'll have to reapproach the steering wheel removal anyway, where I'll have to use some of your great tips and tricks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hursst Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 Was able to get the engine out without removing the steering box by removing the trans, clutch, and flywheel. Thanks again for all the help! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Simply use a bearing splitter and a large two jaw puller. Be sure to leave the nut on flush to the top of the threads on the tube. I then push against a 7/16" or 1/2" bolt and washer that fits down into the steering tube. This makes sure the steering tube threads don't get damaged/crushed as those wheels are usually really tight to pull off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
190bear Posted April 17 Share Posted April 17 On 4/5/2024 at 10:15 AM, 60FlatTop said: One of those Murphy's Law tools. If you get one you probably won't need it again, which ain't really a bad thing. We always called it preventative tool buying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunsmoke Posted April 17 Share Posted April 17 (edited) I had the same issue with the steering wheel on my 1931 Chrysler CD8 back 2/3 years ago, which had likely never been removed. I made a rig to act like a puller (using a puller and some homemade gear to clear horn boss), and with steering nut loose a couple of turns, after a lot of applied pressure, nothing. I took a paint remover heating gun/tool, and with pressure still applied, carefully heated the top of the shaft/nut area and after a few minutes(being careful to keep heat on steel parts only), the wheel popped off with out any damage to bakelite. I'm often amazed at how a little heat in the right place can loosen seized steel parts. Edited April 17 by Gunsmoke (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 16 hours ago, Gunsmoke said: I'm often amazed at how a little heat in the right place can loosen seized steel parts. Yup, I just yesterday had some success with a heat gun. Corroded up boat seat swivel. Aluminum post stuck in a cast aluminum housing since 1978 and outdoors around salt water the whole time. A project that I never should have started by the way. Back when I did this kind of thing for a living, I got pretty good with the heat. Most boat motors are held together nicely with corrosion. Good job on the steering wheel puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now