29 Chandler Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 For those of you with a car from the teens or 20's I am curious how your radiator is mounted to the frame. My 1914 Chandler has two 9/16" studs on the bottom of the radiator shell that project down to the frame. When I removed the radiator there were two rather crude pieces of rubber to act as a washer between the frame and the radiator. I plan to replace these rubber pieces with something better. What do you suggest? The radiator itself is rather heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmsue Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 My 28 Willys and 31 Willys are exactly the same. I used a piece of rubber sidewall from an old tire to fashion a new cushion washer and originally there was a large fender type washer used before the lock washer and nut.. Bill 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29 Chandler Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 26 minutes ago, wmsue said: My 28 Willys and 31 Willys are exactly the same. I used a piece of rubber sidewall from an old tire to fashion a new cushion washer and originally there was a large fender type washer used before the lock washer and nut.. Bill Hi Bill, That is exactly what was used by the previous owner of our car. Maybe I'll just re-use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramair Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Most of my early cars and trucks used the system you described, some of my antique tractors also used the rubber disc between radiator and frame, but then they also used extra long bolts, which had short springs that allowed the radiator to compensate for vibration. If I recall correctly the bolts were cross drill for cotter key, that way you would put tension of spring but would not collapse it. you really don’t see a lot of fancy mounting systems on radiators on cars until the mid to late thirties. Possibly for a couple of reasons, aerodynamics came into play and most cars did away with a functional external radiator shell, in my opinion the other reason was the manufacturer’s went to the thin brass upper and lower radiator tanks which crack if flexed to much, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29 Chandler Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 (edited) I found in my Chandler parts list a part called "Radiator Cushion Strap", could be ordered from the factory for just 50 cents. Sadly there is not drawing of the part or assembly to refer to. I expect there was just one piece of this strap across the entire bottom of the radiator where it comes into contact with the frame. Edited March 23 by 29 Chandler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Through 1919 the Ford Model T used leather pads, 1920 went to spring mounts for the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 4 hours ago, ramair said: Most of my early cars and trucks used the system you described, some of my antique tractors also used the rubber disc between radiator and frame, but then they also used extra long bolts, which had short springs that allowed the radiator to compensate for vibration. If I recall correctly the bolts were cross drill for cotter key, that way you would put tension of spring but would not collapse it. you really don’t see a lot of fancy mounting systems on radiators on cars until the mid to late thirties. Possibly for a couple of reasons, aerodynamics came into play and most cars did away with a functional external radiator shell, in my opinion the other reason was the manufacturer’s went to the thin brass upper and lower radiator tanks which crack if flexed to much, Agree with this attachment. Radiator, rubber cushion, frame, washer, spring, washer, nut, cotter pin unless you use a prevailing torque nut. As noted above this allows the radiator to move and not become part of the frame on flexing which can break out the studs that go to the radiator. Just IMO. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 As mentioned above, this was the most common, conventional method of mounting a radiator. When I did it on a 1910 REO I used shock absorber bushings. I made concave washers to go above and below them and used a long brass stud threaded and soldered into the lower tank with a spring (I may have used short valve springs), also with fitted washers, under the front cross member. You don't tighten them too much, just enough to slightly compress the spring. They need a split pin in the stud and preferably a castelated nut. The idea is to allow chassis to flex (which all early cars chassis do) without putting added stress on the radiator. Many had a thick reinforcement inside the bottom tank that the stud screwed into. A better way to mount them was a spring loaded flange firmly attached to the side of the radiator shell. This was a lot more expensive to make and is most commonly seen on trucks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordy Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Hupp utilized the same mounting method on Model R and A so probably on others as well. When I refitted the Radiator to my cars I used what we called "waffle pad" in the air-conditioning industry. It is rubber sheet available in various thicknesses to reduce vibrations transmitted from equipment into the building structure. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Ford 8N tractors are the same. Google ford 8N and look for lower radiator mounts. I just ordered some for my wife’s tractor. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29 Chandler Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 1 hour ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said: Ford 8N tractors are the same. Google ford 8N and look for lower radiator mounts. I just ordered some for my wife’s tractor. Mike Thanks for that info Mike. I was thinking of buying a strip of 1/4" thick solid rubber to lay down under the radiator above the front cross member. This way there would be support all across the bottom of the radiator. And then go with the flat washers and castle nut with cotter pins below the cross member. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erichill Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 When I disasembled my 1919 Chandler there was a very worn strip all the way across the radiator bottom. Not reusable so I plan on using thick rubber washers with fender washers. Suggestion. One of my studs was very corroded from a radiator leak. I was afraid of breaking the stud so carefully used heat to remove the rusted nut. When I get my radiator back I am thinking I will use antisieze and drill and cotter-pin the studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29 Chandler Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 45 minutes ago, erichill said: When I disasembled my 1919 Chandler there was a very worn strip all the way across the radiator bottom. Not reusable so I plan on using thick rubber washers with fender washers. Suggestion. One of my studs was very corroded from a radiator leak. I was afraid of breaking the stud so carefully used heat to remove the rusted nut. When I get my radiator back I am thinking I will use antisieze and drill and cotter-pin the studs. Sounds like you still have the original Radiator Cushioning Strip on your car. I went ahead and ordered this 1” x 1/4” rubber for mine https://a.co/d/aHDlLbb cut it to 14” and knocked some holes out for the studs and it’s ready to go. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWN Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Mine was like Eric's, smashed old rubber strip. I have temporarily used folded inner tube rubber but will probably use the same rubber you ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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