Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 Passenger side was the same process. This time I used the shaft of the round punch as I was stuffing the seal in- this was the ticket- went in much easier. If I had a few more wheels to install I might have picked up a few more tricks. 🙂 I couldn’t find the caps for the rear end wheels. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 I had to loosen the outer brake band on the PS- if you remember that bolt took a hit at some point and although I straightened the bold- the outer break ring has a flat spot. Wheel is on and turns nicely but we’ll need to pull the band and try to tweak the band a bit. All 4 wheels now back on the chassis. Tires are next but I think I’ll wait a bit to give the paint on the wheels more time to cure/harden. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 Wow you’re doing a beautiful job 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 36 minutes ago, BuickTom87 said: Wow you’re doing a beautiful job Thank you very much- This car was only supposed to be a “ get it running and drive it” but I got carried away… 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 For those of you that bet “ there’s no way he walks away tonight without putting the tires on” please take your tickets to the window and collect your winnings 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 In the loosest definition of the term I now have a rolling chassis. 9 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 (edited) I ordered a pin-striping tool and paint. Really needs that white pinstripe to set the wheels off. Edited August 25 by Slawnski Added text (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 IMO I would leave the current caps on. They tell a the story of the past. Mike 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 Took the frame outside to turn it around. Facing forward on the lift now to prepare for dropping the engine and transmission at some point. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 32 minutes ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said: IMO I would leave the current caps on. They tell a the story of the past. Mike Good call! Trying to find the rear two… they’re here someplace… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 Did you ever go back and check all your hardware to make sure it's all tight and you haven't forgotten anything? Your doing a good job and quickly, hate for you to have any mechanical issues from a loose bolt or something missing after all that hard work you put in so far. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 26 Author Share Posted August 26 21 minutes ago, Laughing Coyote said: Did you ever go back and check all your hardware to make sure it's all tight and you haven't forgotten anything? Your doing a good job and quickly, hate for you to have any mechanical issues from a loose bolt or something missing after all that hard work you put in so far. I did. Thanks for the reminder- this is great advice. I went through all mechanical connections when I hit all the grease fittings after the chassis was finally assembled. When I install the powertrain I’ll check them all over again. I need to add lubricant to the rear roller bearings as well. I wasn't sure what grease to use so I used assembly lube as a stopgap until I can put the right lube in. I bought a dozen or so new cleaves pins as I have a few that I was missing so when these go in I’ll check them all again to be sure they are in and have cotter pins installed. Once the engine and transmission are in and the mechanical brake rods connected I can final adjust all the linkages and check all fittings once again. Every major step complete means a recheck of everything done prior. by the time this car is started again I will have checked everything 1/2 a dozen times. Hoping to have caught everything by then. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31 LaSalle Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 14 hours ago, Slawnski said: Took the frame outside to turn it around. Facing forward on the lift now to prepare for dropping the engine and transmission at some point. Cant wait to see it reunited with its body lovely work so far 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 She's a 'roller' again! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drhach Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 I want to thank you for posting your work. It inspires me to slog through the project that I'm working on. Each day I see another post from you and it motivates/shames me in to going home and forging ahead with my stuff. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 26 Author Share Posted August 26 1 minute ago, drhach said: I want to thank you for posting your work. It inspires me to slog through the project that I'm working on. Each day I see another post from you and it motivates/shames me in to going home and forging ahead with my stuff. Drhach, Thank you for this post. There are plenty of days an upcoming part of a project has me dreading walking into the shop. We all have a great support system in the group/forums here. You guys have helped me time and time again get over the rough spots. Glad I can be a part of that for you and anybody else plugging away on their projects! 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 27 Author Share Posted August 27 That brake band binding/ flat spot is really bugging me and I’ll need to address it much sooner than later. I’ll pull the wheel and that outer band tomorrow and try to get the flat spot out of it. Not sure how it will affect the new lining. We shall see i did pull out the sheering shaft as I fought the temptation to start prepping for engine/transmission installation. Any advice on disassembly? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 Looking great! Keep up the good work. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nsbrassnut Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 Nothing much to add about how to take it apart. Other than be very careful around those gears on the bottom of the steering box. On many cars they are diecast white metal and can be very delicate and break easy. Hopefully yours are made of something stronger. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 28 Author Share Posted August 28 Nothing really done on the Buick today I had a long day away- I did take a minute to stop in the shed and just look at the work completed so far. I should have the spare tire and tube tomorrow. So I can get that mounted. Sometimes you just gotta stand back and take it all in. 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 29 Author Share Posted August 29 Another long day- no real time to give to the Buick tonight. I did receive my 5th wheel and tube today so I can get that mounted tomorrow. One of these rims is missing the rivet that sits opposite(ish) the clamp. I think that will be the official spare. id like to pull the rims off the parts car and get them powder coated as well. I can mount my old tires on the parts car and keep it mobile and less “abandoned” looking. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 29 Author Share Posted August 29 I noticed one gear on the steering column has its lower portion of gear teeth stripped. It still works/moves with the lever but it could use to be replaced. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 29 Author Share Posted August 29 Looks like Bobs is out of stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 29 Author Share Posted August 29 I can make what I have work for now- I believe I can slide the one gear down slightly to mesh better. I’ll know more when I get it taken apart- and I’ll keep my eyes out for replacements. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 29 Author Share Posted August 29 (edited) Installed tube flap and tire on the 5th rim. By myself it was more of a challenge and the powder coat on the rim bore the brunt of two hands instead of four Talc in the tire, on the flap and the tube. I was surprised at how little it takes to coat everything. Stuffed the tube in the tire added a little bit of air to it to give it some shape and keep it from twisting. Then carefully put the flap in taking care to be sure the tube didn’t get bound up Once the flap is in I check to be sure tube is free- then set the rim in I used the shrinker to pull the rim in slightly to make installing the tire easier- being very careful not to pinch the flap or tube. I used a tire spoon again being careful not to damage the tube. That heavy flap protects the tube quite a bit while I’m doing this. Once the rim is in I use the tool to push the rim out and get the lock aligned. I really beat the crap out of the rim as the tool slipped a few times- I heeded at least 3 hands to do this. Once the latch is aligned I swing the lock over to secure the rim need to make sure the valve stem is at 90 degrees to the rim. I’ll touch up paint the next time I spray black paint. Edited August 29 by Slawnski Spelling added photo (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Stockton Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 (edited) Purchased this Buick Master 26-47 in 2013 not as a restoration project but just get the old car running project. Once it was driving I didn't like the gear ratio 4.7 to 1. I found an overdrive from an 87 Volvo and took it and the drive shaft, tork tube, third member to these guys in Shafter California who attached it for $1,200. After I got the breaks to work and changed the carburator to a updraft Carter B&B with a real accelerator pump it drove really well in overdrive at least 50. But then I realized that most of the wood in the car was rotted. The doors had nothing for the hinges to hang on to. Three years later after replacing the wood I'm still trying to line up the doors. I live in near Sacramento California the car has no rust but for me replacing the wood is a nightmare. Edited August 30 by Don Stockton (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stewart Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 Hi Don, I assume that you now have the woodwork sorted....I took delivery of a Master 27/47 Easter 2024. It had been stored in a field for 5 years, so the woodwork was well gone. first part that fell off was the drivers door followed smartly by the front passenger door. Very little wood left for pattern making so have to use the steel cladding and intuitive guesswork. All the door hinges have been swopped left to right over time. The 3 hole pattern of fixing are reversed, so now there are 6 worn out holes in the A, B and C pillars. Also 6 on each door fixing point. Onward ever onward...... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 30 Author Share Posted August 30 18 hours ago, Don Stockton said: Purchased this Buick Master 26-47 in 2013 not as a restoration project but just get the old car running project. Once it was driving I didn't like the gear ratio 4.7 to 1. I found an overdrive from an 87 Volvo and took it and the drive shaft, tork tube, third member to these guys in Shafter California who attached it for $1,200. After I got the breaks to work and changed the carburator to an updraft Carter B&B with a real accelerator pump it drove really well in overdrive at least 50. But then I realized that most of the wood in the car was rotted. The doors had nothing for the hinges to hang on to. Three years later after replacing the wood I'm still trying to line up the doors. I live in near Sacramento California the car has no rust but for me replacing the wood is a nightmare. Don, Beautiful car- I’m not far from dropping the body onto the frame and starting down the path of wood replacement. I know I’ve got to strip my doors down and glue all the joints. The curve at the bottom of the doors has straightened out due to joints coming apart. This car sat in a field for 9 months or so ( over an Illinois winter) and there are probably very few areas that will at very least need to be glued. Both A pillars are shot, as well as the corner of the top where these meet. Did you make any patterns of the pieces you replaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 30 Author Share Posted August 30 17 hours ago, David Stewart said: Hi Don, I assume that you now have the woodwork sorted....I took delivery of a Master 27/47 Easter 2024. It had been stored in a field for 5 years, so the woodwork was well gone. first part that fell off was the drivers door followed smartly by the front passenger door. Very little wood left for pattern making so have to use the steel cladding and intuitive guesswork. All the door hinges have been swopped left to right over time. The 3 hole pattern of fixing are reversed, so now there are 6 worn out holes in the A, B and C pillars. Also 6 on each door fixing point. Onward ever onward...... David, I’ll be addressing these very issues! Driver and passenger doors both have nothing to mount to. I’ll know more as I get interior removed and some metal removed. If I’m honest I’m not looking forward to this phase of the restoration, but once I get the body secured on the chassis I’ll take it one bit at a time. I like the intuitive guesswork… I’ll be leaning on that quite a bit. I’d love to see photos of your progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stewart Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31 LaSalle Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 15 minutes ago, David Stewart said: Nice work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 Interesting construction! I'm about in the same process with my scale model (1:12), but will be limited to the floor! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 David- Holy Moly!!! You weren’t kidding! I’m hoping my experience - rapidly approaching- isn’t as intense. Nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 8 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said: Interesting construction! I'm about in the same process with my scale model (1:12), but will be limited to the floor! Roger, what kit is that? Very detailed, looking good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drhach Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 1 hour ago, Slawnski said: Roger, what kit is that? Very detailed, looking good. You're in for a treat...... 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 4 hours ago, Slawnski said: Roger, what kit is that? Very detailed, looking good. It's not a kit, but scratch built. Can be seen here: Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models - Page 96 - Our Cars & Restoration Projects - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 Been sidetracked quite a bit this weekend. Took a few minutes to pull the ancillary items off the engine today. I dropped the power train into the frame. Not bolted in yet- I’ll need to wait for a second set of hands to get the driveshaft lined up and bolted in before I can bolt the engine down. At that point I can start putting everything back on. I’ll need a few items as I move forward like some thick washers for intake/exhaust studs. I’ll have to wipe everything down- it all pretty dusty even after being covered. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted September 2 Author Share Posted September 2 In!!! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted September 2 Author Share Posted September 2 Lots of shop cleaning in my very near future- I can move a lot of things out and stow away other stuff ( engine cart, cherry picker, ect) one step closer to mounting the body and the start of the wood/body work. Next steps in no particular order: Fuel tank Brake band tweak Adjust brakes Check all connections/ fittings Start assembling engine bits Pinstripe rims 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted September 3 Author Share Posted September 3 Not a lot of time this weekend- and I’ll be rearranging the shop a bit over the vent several days. I have a 20’ section of wall I need to furr out, insulate and plywood paint. I’ve had a vehicle pushed up against that corner of the shop for awhile now. It’s out now so I’ll get that wall wrapped up and move some things around. Photo of the chassis as it sits now-outside so I could move stuff around. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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