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Cylinder Head Retorque


Joao46

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Hi. I have a 1931 Chrysler Imperial that the previous owner had recently replaced a head gasket , which for that engine (6.2 liter inline flathead) I would assume is a copper gasket.

 

After running it for a bit I noticed a slight leak of coolant from a spot in the rear of the engine. I retorqued the head and it was clear it needed it as most of the nuts turned a little. 
 

Leak went away, then I drove the car about 30 miles and ran the engine a few times in the garage as I tuned it.

 

Then as I revved the engine, checking the timing , I saw a small puff of smoke coming from one rear head nut. 
 

I again retorqued the head, noticed a little bit of movement on most nuts (much less than before) and the puff of smoke went away.

 

I’m assuming these little leaks I noticed were signs I needed to retorque the head, since it was recently replaced. 
 

Im just sharing this to get some of the experts here opinions. Do you agree these issues were just signs I needed to retorque the head? 
 
Or is there something more serious going on?

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Did they use any copper coat sealant that you can see looking at the seam? I retorque heads several times after going through several hot/cold cycles. 

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Reproduction sandwich-style head gaskets with plastic rather than asbestos centers require at least five re-torques, in my experience, before all the potential "squish" is taken up.  When available, I'm happy to pay the extra money for NOS asbestos-center gaskets which generally only require one or perhaps two re-torques.

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curious what ft/lbs you are torqueing the head bolts. On my '31 Chrysler CD8 (240CI) I was advised to be cautious of over-torqueing after I did the valves and installed a new gasket (old style, copper asbestos). Gradually re-torqued in a set of stages, 50, 60, 70 lbs etc using sequence pattern recommended. I think my studs were 7/16". No leaks after a couple of warmups, but engine has not been run for more than a few minutes. I plan to re-torque after next run, but was advised to be careful about going above 75 ft/lbs, not sure what recommendation is for your engine. 

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1 hour ago, Gunsmoke said:

curious what ft/lbs you are torqueing the head bolts. On my '31 Chrysler CD8 (240CI) I was advised to be cautious of over-torqueing after I did the valves and installed a new gasket (old style, copper asbestos). Gradually re-torqued in a set of stages, 50, 60, 70 lbs etc using sequence pattern recommended. I think my studs were 7/16". No leaks after a couple of warmups, but engine has not been run for more than a few minutes. I plan to re-torque after next run, but was advised to be careful about going above 75 ft/lbs, not sure what recommendation is for your engine. 

I go by this most times....

TorqueSettings2.jpg.f99e972e36537e6823e2fe733a934bfd.jpg

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31 minutes ago, John Watkinson said:

Could Kaiser31 enlarge the torque settings for cylinder heads - Chrysler to Studebaker

Thanks

I am having a problem with enlarging capabilities these days.

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5 hours ago, John Watkinson said:

Could Kaiser31 enlarge the torque settings for cylinder heads - Chrysler to Studebaker

Thanks

I can send it to you in a private message and maybe you can work with it.

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