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1965 Buick Riviera Drive Shaft for sale

gmdbhornet

By gmdbhornet
in Buick Riviera

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  • gmdbhornet changed the title to 1965 Buick Riviera Drive Shaft for sale
XframeFX 10,000+ Points

XframeFX

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On 8/9/2023 at 5:51 PM, Loren@65GS.com said:

would I need this drive shaft in order to change out the Dynaflow in our '63 Riviera to a '65-'66 400?

So, I'm still curious if after swapping out the Dynaflow to a 1965 ST400, Can only the front half of the 1965 driveshaft be mated to the 1963 rear drive shaft? 

TX.

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BulldogDriver 2,500+ Points

BulldogDriver

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When I converted to a 4L60E three things had to be changed to make everthing fit. Front shaft had to be shortened, yoke had to be changed to match the transmission, and to get the drivetrain geometry correct the center carrier bearing had to be shorten to match a 64/65 mount.
 

The shortening of the shaft can be done by any repair shop dealing with commercial trucks if you can’t find an automotive shop. They can also swap the yoke over. In my case a conversion u-joint had to be used. The tricky part as shortening the center bearing mount as it contains vulcanized rubber so welding the base back on had to be done delicately. 
 

I have heard that some have modified the frame to use a 64/65 carrier bearing mount. I don’t have any experience with that. 
 

Ray

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XframeFX 10,000+ Points

XframeFX

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On 8/12/2023 at 6:30 AM, telriv said:

NO, not without problems unforeseen.

OK, then continue with the intent of using the whole assembly which will require changing out the differential pinion yoke to a flange for the CV joint.

 

With Ray's conversion to a 4L60 and the 3 or 4 things he mentioned, I think my intention of sticking with G1 Riviera components such as the 1965 drive shaft 4-Sale, Pinion Flange, tailshaft cross member and shift linkage/shifter for an ST400, the only thing would be to drill holes in the X-Frame for the cross member. I would also change the ST400 tailshaft housing and driveshaft slip-yoke to the larger version.

 

On 8/12/2023 at 8:37 AM, BulldogDriver said:

When I converted to a 4L60E

Ray, with your conversion as with others using the 4L60 and 700-R4, how is that extra deep 1st gear? Over the years some comments on a spread between 1st and 2nd.

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BulldogDriver 2,500+ Points

BulldogDriver

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Compared to a Dynaflow, yes it will get the rear to break loose a lot easier. I’m running a 3.23 Posi differential and I think it’s fine.  The rule of thumb is to get a transmission to differential ratio of 9.5 to 1. My 3.23 puts it at 9.9 to 1 and a 3.08 would be at 9.4 to 1. I think either one would be fine in the car. When the transmission was rebuilt a Corvette servo was installed and that proved to be a bit too much for the relatively skinny tires we normally use on these cars. It would chirp the tires on 1 to 2 shift very easily so I went back to a regular servo and it now shifts smoothly throughout all gears. 
 

When I did this conversion the pandemic had just started and I was thinking of putting an overdrive transmission in to get the gas mileage increased for highway driving so I was bored and went for it. I will say that it was a handful to do but it is obtainable if you are mechanically inclined. The torque converter has to matched to what the controller is looking for, 3 different ways to lockup the clutch in the converter. A 700R4 would definitely be cheaper and less complicated to install. I know that Russ and Matt Martin are working on a conversion bell housing but unlike a 4L60E the transmission case has to be cut to mate the conversion to it. That should be done by someone who is experienced at doing that. I know the kickdown cable adjustment has to be done properly or major damage can happen. 
 

Would I do this today? Probably not the 4L60E but would go with the 700R4. That conversion housing wasn’t available when I did this. Hiding the controller is a challenge, mine will be velcro’d to the enclosed side of the passenger valance panel. I had a problem with the engine running hot so I eliminated the transmission cooler to the radiator and went with a external cooler. Probably didn’t need to be that extreme but it is done now. Cooler lines at the transmission are a very tight bend to clear the tunnel and getting a wrench on them is a hassle. Transmission tube is not a direct bolt on. A bracket has to be made if you are using a rigid tube. 


 

Ray

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XframeFX

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7 hours ago, BulldogDriver said:

When I did this conversion the pandemic had just started and I was thinking of putting an overdrive transmission in to get the gas mileage increased for highway driving so I was bored and went for it.

Ray, you've shared details on your conversion in other posts and I've been following them. Many thanks on sharing thoughts as well as the mechanical details. Thoughts are what starts the encounter so, that is important too. I've done way more projects in my head than with my hands!

 

The 4L60 Nailhead Bellhousing sure is tempting. However, my thoughts on the 1965 BJ ST400 I've had for so long that I can't remember how I acquired it is that 1) It will be a bolt-on with exception of drilling frame holes and 2) Chose variable pitch rather than an OD transmission with torque converter lock-up. My Riviera simply does not accumulate many miles.

 

I've had variable pitch in an Oldsmobile and would like it again in my Riviera with an ST400. I cannot detect the Dynaflow variable pitch even after several adjustments. Perhaps there were shortcuts in the rebuild?

 

However, my original intent was a performance upgrade with the ST400. Today, I'm more interested in vintage and reliability. The Dynaflow is that and except for questionable variable pitch, operates flawlessly. I cannot fault the Dynaflow! This makes it difficult to justify an ST400 swap and yet more $$$ into my Riviera.

 

The ST400 drive shaft I have is a rough core. It will require everything. Not impressed with numerous slugs at both ends to balance this thing. An example of the rear in the image below.

image.png.11c805b9e7282362b8c28d9539d0d718.png

 

 

 

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