54 Chrysler cooling question

[Chry54]

trying to solve my running hot issue on my 54 chrysler 265 engine. my question is can exhaust gases get into the cooling system with the engine running but the engine does not lose water?     dennis

[JACK M]

I will say it could be possible.

But not likely.

[28 Chrysler]

Head gasket could be leaking .

[Bloo]

There is a tool you can get that uses a blue colored fluid to check for combustion gas in the cooling system. It is not a perfect test, but if a car fails this test, there is definitely combustion gas in the cooling system.

 

If you happen to be in the US, you can buy/rent one of these tools at Oreilly or Autozone on their tool loaner program. You take the tool back when you are done for a full refund. The only out of pocket cost in the end is the bottle of blue colored fluid which you must buy outright.

 

[Chry54]

so it is possible but not lkely. i was guessing the head gasket as that was replaced about 4 years ago. my compression is 100# in all cylinders xcept # 4 which is about 75#. i did not have the head resurfaced at that time. is there a name for this tool to check for exhaust gas in the cooling system? i can ask at o'reillys this weekend.   thanks,  dennis

[Bloo]

"Block Tester" or "Combustion Leak Detector". It usually looks about like this.

 

 

Have you ever inspected or changed your water distribution tube?

[Chry54]

rented that tool and the cooling system has no exhaust gas in it. the car has a new dist. tube. i bought a shroud and i am looking for a 6 blade fan.no luck so far. they were used on alot of 50's mopars and trucks. don't know why it is so hard to find.     dennis

[Bloo]

Is it getting hot mostly at idle or at speed?

[Chry54]

at idle.will run coolest at about 45 mph, and then hotter at 60 and above.stop and go on hot days is the worst..  Dennis

[Bloo]

Be sure that your timing is set right at idle and that it advances. The block might be full of sludge. You might need to knock the core plugs out and clean out the water jackets. @keithb7 posted pictures of an engine about like yours recently that had an unbelievable amount of sludge in there. The radiator might be clogged. If you disturb things by cleaning out the water jackets, I would suggest you add "Grimy's Sock" to the upper hose to catch anything you weren't able to flush out, so it doesn't just float up and clog the radiator.

 

The big fan will help at idle and in parades. At speed it will probably do more harm than good, though it should be OK to run. The same goes for the shroud. For issues at speed, look over the front of the car for missing shields, pans, rubber flaps, etc. The air that comes through the grille should have no easy way to get to the engine compartment without going through the radiator first.

 

[avgwarhawk]

58 minutes ago, Chry54 said:

at idle.will run coolest at about 45 mph, and then hotter at 60 and above.stop and go on hot days is the worst..  Dennis

 

It appears to be how these cars of this era run when it comes to cooling.  54 Buick 264 nailhead.  Idle runs warm.  Stop and go runs very warm.  What is specific issue? 

[Chry54]

i have pulled the core plugs and flushed. i think there are areas you cannot get to this way. the rad is recored and clean.other people have said a shroud and a 6 blade fan has helped considerably. an essy project if and when i find a fan.  just want the car to be driven in the NC heat.  thanks,  dennis

[avgwarhawk]

3 hours ago, Chry54 said:

i have pulled the core plugs and flushed. i think there are areas you cannot get to this way. the rad is recored and clean.other people have said a shroud and a 6 blade fan has helped considerably. an essy project if and when i find a fan.  just want the car to be driven in the NC heat.  thanks,  dennis

 

Ok, what is the temperature the engine is running?  

[Chry54]

running at around 180 at idle in the garage when warmed up. temp guage right in the middle. at the top of the guage runs at around 200. maybe i need a higher capacity rad. current one is the original, but recored. it is a 3 row. maybe i need a 4?  dennis

[avgwarhawk]

15 hours ago, Chry54 said:

running at around 180 at idle in the garage when warmed up. temp guage right in the middle. at the top of the guage runs at around 200. maybe i need a higher capacity rad. current one is the original, but recored. it is a 3 row. maybe i need a 4?  dennis

I don't see an issue with your cooling.  My 54 has exactly the same cooling characteristics as your Chrysler. Never boils over in the hottest of summer days. 

Edited May 8, 2023 by avgwarhawk (see edit history)

[Chry54]

does a 4 row make a difference? maybe it won't fit?   dennis

[Bloo]

It makes a difference, but not much. Mostly it adds water capacity. The air is already pretty warm by the time it gets to the fourth row.

[Gunsmoke]

Could I politely ask that you change title to "1954 Chrysler cooling problem". Thanks

[Chry54]

someone did it, i do not know how. if you will tell me how to do that i will appreciate that.    thanks,   dennis

[keithb7]

Hmm. Seems odd that you are getting hotter at faster travel speed. You have a ton of air moving through the rad at 60 mph. Plenty of air to cool the water. The rad is a new re-core and clean. Shouldn’t be the rad if it’s newly re-cored. At higher speeds the engine is working harder. Burning more fuel. Making more heat. The original cooling system would have been adequate. At higher speeds the mechanical advance should advance the timing. If the timing is wrong the engine will produce more heat. Is your advance working? You can check it by watching your timing light on the pulley and rev the engine up. What is your static timing? A lean air-fuel mixture will make more heat too. How’s the jetting feel at the higher travel speeds? Any possible air leaks in the carb? Float level accurate?  What’s the age of your water pump? Have you looked at it? 

Edited May 28, 2023 by keithb7 (see edit history)

[Chry54]

answer to keith.   mech. advance is working.  timing is set at 2 deg. advance.carb rebuilt abot 6 months ago. water pump rebuilt about 2 years ago. i think there may still be some blockage in the block in spite of many flushing attempts. core plugs were removed and whatever i could clean out was done. i even flushed with beet juice once. i recently bought a shroud and a 6 blade fan. not installed yet. i want a larger capacity radiator, but all the info about tubes, fins, alum. or copper is a little confusing. electric fan did not help. i will get a laser temp gun to check temps at different spots on the engine and that may help.   thanks,   dennis

[tom1954]

I am not familiar with the water pump on the 6 but here is what happened to me on my 54 with the 331 hemi. Water pump seal was leaking. I was not able to locate a rebuilt pump at the time so I had it rebuilt locally. Installed it and drove around town and all was well. Next drive was on an expressway and it overheated. Thought it might be the thermostat so when it cooled down enough I was able to take the top hose off the stat housing and I could see the stat was wide open. Had it towed home, took the pump off and found that the impeller was spinning on the shaft and not moving any water. At the time neither I nor the rebuilder had any repair parts so the impeller got tack welded to the shaft, problem solved, still working OK about 8 years later. I have since located an extra pump as well as some repair kits with spare seals, bearings and shafts.