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tom1954

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About tom1954

  • Birthday 09/02/1954

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  1. What was the cost to repair the relay? Maybe post their name, address and phone so others may be able to use them.
  2. Thanks for looking. The problem with the ones on ebay is they are all for the 4V quadrajet, none for the 2V.
  3. Looking for a choke spring for a 1968 Chevrolet 307 2V. Comes up as not available everywhere I have looked thus far. Anybody have some NOS choke springs?
  4. Also, I have seen them for sale on the buy/sell option here as well as on ebay.
  5. The socket / lamp assembly has a self contained switch that I believe is a mercury switch but not positive on that. I know I had mine off the deck lid and tipping it in various positions with it grounded to the lid the light went off and on dependent on its position.
  6. Since the starter engages when you use the jumper at the relay I would look at the relay not the solenoid. Can't hurt to take the relay off, carefully remove the cover and lightly file the contacts inside. You are correct that the relays are expensive, I recently bought a NOS one on ebay for just over $100.00 and thought it to be a great price.
  7. I do know that the fan pulls air from under the car because during summer cruising the underside of the hood is covered with bug residue directly over the area that would be over the space between the fan shroud and the front of the motor. That is a positive indication of air being sucked in from the bottom. The car does not overheat as there is enough air passing through the radiator while driving.
  8. A few years back I had the water pump on my 54 with a 331 rebuilt due to the seal leaking out the weep hole. Drove it very locally once or twice, seemed good. Next trip out it was an expressway run, overheated big time. When it cooled down a bit I was able to take off the top hose and I could see that the thermostat was wide open. Put the hose back on, filled it with water, fired it up and almost instant overheating. Had it towed home, took off the water pump, the pressed on impeller was spinning on the shaft. Took it back to the rebuilder, he did not have any spare shafts or impellers so as a last resort the impeller was tack welded to the shaft. All is well now, still will run hot while idling or moving very slowly for a long distance (parade) if the outside temps are over 60 or so. I believe part of that is I do not have a seal between the hood and the core support and secondly with so much open space under the front of the engine compartment the fan can pull air from underneath instead of through the grill / radiator. I have since acquired spare water pumps as well as rebuilding parts that hopefully I will never need.
  9. How about the starter relay, located on inner fender well by the battery? Is the Chrysler logo above the V on the trunk lid in decent shape? Maybe a few of the wheel bolts, both left and right threaded.
  10. I can't help you on the testing of your system but I can tell you the relays show up on ebay from time to time. I recently bought a spare one for my 54 on ebay for $200.00. I have seen them go for as high as 400.00. I have also seen a few folks that used a Ford style relay / solenoid in its place. Good luck.
  11. The probe and tube leading to the gauge are all 1 unit.
  12. My 54 has the 331 with a 2bl, not sure if this applies to the 4 bl version. On the 2 bl carb version there is hot water circulating through the carb base to prevent icing in cold weather. I do not know if that is necessary with todays fuel plus the car is not driven in the winter months. That hot water sitting in the base and hoses on shutdown can quickly evaporate some of the fuel in the carb bowl which contributes to the hot start issues. With that, I have disconnected / rerouted that hot water so it does not flow through the carb base, I then installed pipe plugs in the carb base to replace the nipples sticking out of the carb base. Also, an electric assist pump, controlled by a toggle switch, could be added in the line to get past a vapor lock issue. And yes, the vent system on most older vehicles just vents to the air. This holds true into the late 60's / early 70's when air pollution equipment took hold of the automobile industry. My 68 ElCamino vents to the atmosphere at the filler cap. If I fill the tank to full it actually will spill fuel out the vented cap on right turns or if the fuel expands due to summer heat.
  13. On my 54 New Yorker, the fuel supply comes off the passenger side of the tank and is a flare or compression fitting. The line crosses over to the drivers side and follows the frame rail to the front cross member where it crosses back to the passenger side to the fuel pump. The vent line is a small (abt 1/8") line that follows the rear drivers side frame rail and ends high up on the frame over the rear axle.
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