tom1954

One other thing; There is supposed to be a flap style rubber seal between the core support and underside of the hood. Sealing that would force the air to flow thru rather than over the top of the radiator. My car does not have that seal but the wire staples used to hold it there are still there. I never replaced that seal as I really do not use the car at low speed for any length of time so I left it as it was.

Not sure if this will help you or not. This shows the 2 types of radiators, Windsor is 2 1/2" Cellular, New yorker is 3" fin and tube. Also, the New Yorker has a ring style fan shroud, the Windsor does not have a shroud. Possibly adding a shroud would help you. My New Yorker is fine while driving normally but at extended low speed (parade type driving) or at idle for 10 or 15 min the temp gauge climbs rapidly. I also know that a good amount of air does not pass thru the radiator at low speed as the underside of the hood gets a large selection of bugs in a pattern just above the fan, they are getting sucked in from under the car and not passing thru the radiator or grill.

Thank you.

Looking at the possibility of needing a new 2V carb for my 331. Does anyone have one, know of a good rebuilder or know what other carb may work.

I do not know anything on a 49 but I can tell you that on a 54 that loom runs up along the roof line them back down at the " A" pillar.

I am not familiar with the water pump on the 6 but here is what happened to me on my 54 with the 331 hemi. Water pump seal was leaking. I was not able to locate a rebuilt pump at the time so I had it rebuilt locally. Installed it and drove around town and all was well. Next drive was on an expressway and it overheated. Thought it might be the thermostat so when it cooled down enough I was able to take the top hose off the stat housing and I could see the stat was wide open. Had it towed home, took the pump off and found that the impeller was spinning on the shaft and not moving any water. At the time neither I nor the rebuilder had any repair parts so the impeller got tack welded to the shaft, problem solved, still working OK about 8 years later. I have since located an extra pump as well as some repair kits with spare seals, bearings and shafts.

I do not need anything for mine, let me know.

I have a 54 New Yorker with the 331 Hemi. My oil bath unit was using a lot of oil and I could not figure out where the oil was going, every month or so it would be low. One day while driving I made a turn and looked behind me and all I saw was a smoke screen., Luckily I was close to the house, got there and removed the air cleaner. The outer shell had all the oil that kept disappearing and the level got high enough that it spilled into the carb and created that smoke screen. I found the leak in the reservoir and sealed it with JB weld. That did solve the problem but then I acquired another top section. I cut out the filtering mesh and modified the top so that I now use a paper element under it but it all still looks like the oil bath air cleaner. I think I have a nice 6 cylinder oil bath unit that I would sell at a reasonable price. If you are interested let me know, I would take some photos to let you see the condition.

Check with SMS, they had the original material for my 54. I actually got the last piece of original, not re manufactured material in light blue.

This is my experience; I have a 54 New Yorker, there is no amp meter. I did not know that the amp warning lamp on the dash (which illuminates along with the oil light) is crucial to the charging system. That bulb had burned out thus while driving the car the battery was being drained. Stopped for gas and the car was dead, that is when I learned about this. Towed home, charged the battery, ran the car, no charge at the battery. Someone told me about the bulb, checked it and found it burned out. Replaced bulb, charges fine. Lesson learned, I always look for the amp light before starting the car. Additionally, just as a back up; I bought a small volt meter that would be used for electronics projects (made to be mounted in a panel). I used a old cell phone charger, dissected the plug, switched the polarity on the center contact, cut the plastic housing and mounted the voltmeter to it. When plugged into the cigarette lighter socket you can get a constant digital reading of the voltage. I run an OPTIMA battery. On start up fast idle it the volt meter shows about 7.5 V. Normal cruising about 6.8, stopped in traffic about 6.0.

Paul repaired my 54 radio in 2013, I do not know if he is still in business.

OKAY, how about $50.00 (or best offer) plus shipping.

49 / 50 Plymouth radio grille, nice condition, make a reasonable offer and pay the shipping.

Make a reasonable offer and I will relay it to my friend. Not sure what the value or rarity of it is.

OK, thank you, it is for sale by the owner if anyone is interested. Looks to be in very nice condition.

A friend found this in his garage, he has no idea where or when he got it. Believes it to be for a Chrysler product. If anyone needs it he will sell it .

What was the cost to repair the relay? Maybe post their name, address and phone so others may be able to use them.

Thanks to all, part has been located.

Thanks for looking. The problem with the ones on ebay is they are all for the 4V quadrajet, none for the 2V.

Looking for a choke spring for a 1968 Chevrolet 307 2V. Comes up as not available everywhere I have looked thus far. Anybody have some NOS choke springs?

Also, I have seen them for sale on the buy/sell option here as well as on ebay.

The socket / lamp assembly has a self contained switch that I believe is a mercury switch but not positive on that. I know I had mine off the deck lid and tipping it in various positions with it grounded to the lid the light went off and on dependent on its position.

Since the starter engages when you use the jumper at the relay I would look at the relay not the solenoid. Can't hurt to take the relay off, carefully remove the cover and lightly file the contacts inside. You are correct that the relays are expensive, I recently bought a NOS one on ebay for just over $100.00 and thought it to be a great price.

I do know that the fan pulls air from under the car because during summer cruising the underside of the hood is covered with bug residue directly over the area that would be over the space between the fan shroud and the front of the motor. That is a positive indication of air being sucked in from the bottom. The car does not overheat as there is enough air passing through the radiator while driving.

A few years back I had the water pump on my 54 with a 331 rebuilt due to the seal leaking out the weep hole. Drove it very locally once or twice, seemed good. Next trip out it was an expressway run, overheated big time. When it cooled down a bit I was able to take off the top hose and I could see that the thermostat was wide open. Put the hose back on, filled it with water, fired it up and almost instant overheating. Had it towed home, took off the water pump, the pressed on impeller was spinning on the shaft. Took it back to the rebuilder, he did not have any spare shafts or impellers so as a last resort the impeller was tack welded to the shaft. All is well now, still will run hot while idling or moving very slowly for a long distance (parade) if the outside temps are over 60 or so. I believe part of that is I do not have a seal between the hood and the core support and secondly with so much open space under the front of the engine compartment the fan can pull air from underneath instead of through the grill / radiator. I have since acquired spare water pumps as well as rebuilding parts that hopefully I will never need.