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Posted

I am dealing with a clean windshield assembly. This one is mostly complete, with good glass but disassembled. My first question is what is the correct size of the detent balls and tension springs dimensions for the pivot positions of the windshield.

Al

Posted
15 hours ago, alsfarms said:

I am dealing with a clean windshield assembly. This one is mostly complete, with good glass but disassembled. My first question is what is the correct size of the detent balls and tension springs dimensions for the pivot positions of the windshield.

Al

I have one apart at the moment I’ll measure them for you tomorrow. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I “think” that nickel plating of radiator surrounds and windscreens came in as a factory option in 1924 under the “special” listing. (Not positive)

Many owners have rebuilt their cars and included this option regardless of build date.

  • Like 1
Posted

I believe 1924 was also the first year that windscreen wipers, Boyco motometers and running board kickplates became available as an option.

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, Minibago said:

Good job Matt,

I wish my calipers had fractions instead of decimal points.

🤔

Yeah I’m not sure where I found them but as soon as I saw that I grabbed them. So handy. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Here is another 1923 windshield question. From a technical standpoint, how can a person determine the year difference between a 1923 windshield assembly and a 1924-25-26 windshield assembly?

Al

Posted

     I'm 99% sure that the balls are 1/4" diameter.  

     If the spacer sleeve you pictured inside the balls is worn and loose in the hole it passes through you will get a rattle and buzz while speeding down the road.

Posted

Matt or anyone, could you share a bit of information regarding one of the pictures posted as below?  My question involves your picture that shows the 4 detent balls and in the middle is a sleeve.  Please describe the use and purpose of that sleeve.  I have, what I thought was a complete windshield assembly but don't see the sleeve as in the picture.  I assume that this sleeve must be some kind of position locater to keep everything centered? I also assume that this piece could be spun out on a lathe to make for a nice fit and remove any looseness.....or is that an issue?  Would it be bad to make it out of brass?  Could you "loose" assemble all of these pieces, in a windshield, so I can be sure of what goes where and when?

Al

2F8CCD2C-160E-42EF-B0D8-ADB9795A7C34.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

I’ve placed them there in order as they are pictured. I’ll measure that sleeve for you when I go out to the shed this morning. 

Posted

Hello Matt, Thanks for your time to take and send pictures of the windshield assembly pivot pieces. Are the upper and lower pivots exactly the same internally? Next, I see what I think is a metal filler piece that fits/mounts to the top of the cowl and under the lower sash window. Is that accurate for use on a late 1922 and 1923 Dodge Bros. Touring car?

Al

Posted

I believe the spacers serves 2 functions, it limits how much you can tighten the acorn nut and compress the spring and it helps center things.  On my .25 touring the upper and lower assemblies are identical.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Thanks, I was not sure if the lower sash windshield was allowed to move the same as the main windshield. Is it a correct assumption that the pivot pieces would be the same between the 1922-23-24-25-26?

Al

 

Edited by alsfarms
Clarity (see edit history)
Posted

Yes the internals are the same top and bottom. I have a spare set of caps that I made if you can’t find any. I had a busy day yesterday and didn’t get a chance to measure the spacer. I’ll look for those caps also. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Alan, as I remember it, the bulge in the lower part of the stanchion is shaped different for one thing. Curve of the cowl is a little different too.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey Dave, 

If the cowl has a different contour, I do have a cowl and cut off stanchions. I wonder what Dodge was thinking to make a stand-alone cowl that would require a different die to form that part?

We are actually having the first spring day today ahead of our next winter storm. 

Al

Posted

Late '22 and '23 were the same. '24 was all new chassis and body etc. Early '22 was like earlier cars.

 

Remember, I do have '23 screenside w/s posts and cowl and parts of w/s frame

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes Dave, I have not forgotten that you have parts that will certainly help my build! Now I understand your suggestion cowls. The earle 1922 have the flat bottom windshield, the late 1922-23 has the arc in the bottom windshield frame.

Al

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/10/2023 at 11:02 AM, alsfarms said:

Please describe the use and purpose of that sleeve. 

     The sleeve allows the acorn nut to be drawn up tight and compress the spring the right amount.  If it's loose on the stud or in the washer it will rattle and buzz.  It took me a little while to figure out where that noise was coming from.

     There's a lot of vibration on that.  Brass is soft so I'd make them out of steel.  Put it all back together with a good charge of grease.

  • Like 1
Posted

     

2 minutes ago, alsfarms said:

Won't a charge of grease get hot under the summer heat and make mess?

     I don't live in the hottest part of the world but it's never done so on mine.  If some dripped out I'd wipe it off.  Eventually it would stop.  I think it would have to be rip roaring hot for the grease to liquify.  Graphite might be an alternative but that would be pretty sure to leave  black streaks if it got wet.

     Even with lube, it takes a fair amount of effort to move the windshields.  Until I cleaned and greased everything, I could only move them with the acorn nuts loosened.  

  • Like 1
Posted

     Mostly I leave them both closed.  One way causes an an intolerable whirlwind but I forget which way that is.  

Posted

     Mine is unrestored and will stay that way while I own it. 

     It runs great , the spring pins, bushings kingpins, tie rods, exhaust system, water pump shaft/packings, ignition and carburetor  all fresh.  I've got AAA free, ($80 per year), towing. 

      I'd like to reupholster the seats and have some sort of top but the kids will have taken my keys away before I finished a restoration.  I'd rather drive it, pick away at the mechanical details and let the next owner go down the restoration rabbit hole. 

     Sometimes they are too good  to use after a restoration.

  • Like 1
Posted
29 minutes ago, nat said:

     Mine is unrestored and will stay that way while I own it. 

     It runs great , the spring pins, bushings kingpins, tie rods, exhaust system, water pump shaft/packings, ignition and carburetor  all fresh.  I've got AAA free, ($80 per year), towing. 

      I'd like to reupholster the seats and have some sort of top but the kids will have taken my keys away before I finished a restoration.  I'd rather drive it, pick away at the mechanical details and let the next owner go down the restoration rabbit hole. 

     Sometimes they are too good  to use after a restoration.


Please be careful when doing the seats Nat.

 

0A465865-CB62-40C8-BFBF-91B733B12027.jpeg.0642893e41ca26a3d0dd832f749f4508.jpeg

  • Haha 2

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