Brian's 70 Riv Thread

[EmTee]

Another option would be to cut the line at a convenient spot and use a compression fitting, rather than a section of hose, to rejoin the pieces.

[telriv]

What I've done in the past which seems to work, BUT you must be patient.

Spray the fitting with lubricate then tap the fitting with a small hammer. The vibration set up by tapping helps the lube to slowly penetrant up the fitting & tube. 

This may need to be done a dozen or so times but eventually it will break loose.

 

Tom T.

[BrianM]

Thanks will try that. The car had a brass union between the line and the radiator. I cut the union to get radiator out.

I was tapping and working it lightly with a hammer last night. No luck so far. I have a flare tool and can cut it if I have to but was trying not to cut it.

[telriv]

Now that the line is out & in your hand clamp the tubing behind the fitting, up close to the fitting, & clamp it in a vice for support. Let the fitting kinda' sit on top the the vise.  Now you have a rather solid surface to tap the fitting against which will set-up more vibrations.

I'm giving hints I have done over the last 60+ years of doing these kind of things & I'm ALWAYS amazed at what can be done by others ALSO by doing the same things.

 

Tom T.

 

Edited August 29, 2022 by telriv (see edit history)

[BrianM]

Well I tapped and heated and wiggled and cussed but the fitting wouldn't come loose. So I started cutting. I ended up cutting 3 slices about the thickness of a penny off the end of the line before it broke loose. I put on a new fitting and flared the end. I think I only lost about 1/4" of tube length. I was able to loop the trans line at that point and fired up the Buick long enough to set dwell and timing. So far no leaks from the timing cover. Yay!

The radiator shop apparently only has one guy who can solder/braze old radiators and he is out sick and new estimate for getting my radiator back is Monday or Tuesday. (so much for get it here by 9am and I will have it back to you same day)

Rain has finally stopped and humidity is dropping off so I will be treating the rust I found under the radiator and the battery tray this weekend. Maybe I will try to figure out the brake fluid leak at the metering block if I have time. But my son's 93 Toyota wouldn't start this morning so him and his younger brother took my 95 Chevy pick-up to school this morning. 36" mud tires and 4.56 gears is not the best thing to drive 30mi one way to school getting 10 mpg but at least they will look cool. So I guess I will be a POR15 painter and Toyota mechanic this weekend.

[BrianM]

Finally got radiator back. POR-15 rust treatment looks like it did a good job on battery tray and lower radiator support. Drove it 25mi to work this morning. So far so good. No leaks.

TA oil pump assembly that was installed in the new cover really picked up my oil pressure. The cold oil pressure is crazy now and hot oil pressure is up 10psi. I can probably change to a lighter oil if I want to now. Currently running Rotella T4 15w-40 diesel oil for the zinc content. 

 

[RivNut]

1 hour ago, BrianM said:

Finally got radiator back. POR-15 rust treatment looks like it did a good job on battery tray and lower radiator support. Drove it 25mi to work this morning. So far so good. No leaks.

TA oil pump assembly that was installed in the new cover really picked up my oil pressure. The cold oil pressure is crazy now and hot oil pressure is up 10psi. I can probably change to a lighter oil if I want to now. Currently running Rotella T4 15w-40 diesel oil for the zinc content. 

 

Look at the Zinc and Phosphate levels of Mobil 1 Synthetic High Mileage 10W-30 and 10W-40 oils.  They’re in the 900 - 1,000 ppm range

[BrianM]

Will check that out. Was running the Lucas hot rod oil then found the T4 much cheaper and being thicker it helped with hot idle oil pressure so had been running that recently. Mobil1 is in all of my other vehicles. 

[BrianM]

Well shit.... Just walked out and found this or the lack of...

Was there on lunch yesterday when I sprayed off the garage dust from it being under construction 

[BrianM]

Best source for reasonable priced one of these style centers?

[RivNut]

Buickcenters.com

[telriv]

I have 4 used ones in decent shape.

$200.00 for the four.

 

Tom T.

[NC1968Riviera]

1 hour ago, BrianM said:

Best source for reasonable priced one of these style centers?

 

I have a set of 4 good-very good condition  cones, keepers and medallions for $100 plus shipping. Send me a private message if interested.
Pictures available if interested.

Edited September 1, 2022 by NC1968Riviera (see edit history)

[BrianM]

I have emails out to Cars and BuickCenters for additional info. Cars / Oldbuickparts.com website has changed up for me and I can't see any part photo's. BuickCenters doesn't have any pricing or info.

 

Tom I would really prefer old originals like you have but I am tight on funds as I gave all of my money to TA Performance. I may hit you up for the full set if still available when my play money account has recovered more. Definitely a good price. Might even be a better deal than getting a single reproduction part from one of the above. One site I found was asking over $140 each for reproduction. Don't see anything special or better priced on ebay

[telriv]

BrianM,

 

They are ORIGINALS  I removed from a '70 Riv. MANY years ago.

 

Tom T.

[RivNut]

9 hours ago, BrianM said:

I have emails out to Cars and BuickCenters for additional info. Cars / Oldbuickparts.com website has changed up for me and I can't see any part photo's. BuickCenters doesn't have any pricing or info.

 

Tom I would really prefer old originals like you have but I am tight on funds as I gave all of my money to TA Performance. I may hit you up for the full set if still available when my play money account has recovered more. Definitely a good price. Might even be a better deal than getting a single reproduction part from one of the above. One site I found was asking over $140 each for reproduction. Don't see anything special or better priced on ebay

I googled Buick Centers and found what you did. Just pictures, no prices. But clicking on a different link to me to their a different (old) website which shows all covers, pieces to make covers, and prices. 

[BrianM]

[BrianM]

My Rivera rolled over the clock within hours of my birthday last week. Was able to grab a few pics. Wifey dressed up 70's style and let me take some pics and I posted a few on the Girls and Buicks thread and a few here in our Rivera pics thread 

[NC1968Riviera]

ROA member Stephen Brisbois sells the wood grain dash appliques. Contact him via FB or from his ad in the Riview.

 

[EmTee]

What's old is new again! 

 

[BrianM]

Well I had a catastrophic oil pressure switch failure. Never seen such a thing in my life. Merged on the interstate and looked in the rear view and I had smoke rolling out behind car. Bailed off at the next exit and oil was spraying in a 60psi stream out of the blade connections on the oil pressure switch. I lost 2.5 qts of oil in 1.5 miles. Everything on passenger side of motor was completely soaked. Limped it to auto parts store and was able to remove the pressure switch and plug it with a bolt that was only dripping oil to get me home. 

I really need to put a dedicated fire extinguisher in the Riv. I have a largish one I put in the trunk with tools on road trips and car shows that require them but it gets set out and left in the garage quite often. I need one dedicated to the Riv with a mounting bracket so it isn't rolling around.  Hopefully I have learned my lesson on that without it being the really hard lesson it could have been.

 

[BrianM]

In other news I have been fighting an issue with the 455 pinging when I am at WOT for more than a second or two. I thought it was a timing issue as I have been struggling with timing on the Buick since I got it. Turns out the in line electric pump that was on the car when purchased just can't keep up when the secondary's open up on the quadrajet. I put a pressure gauge in and taped it to the windshield and had my wife read the gauge while I drove. I am getting 6psi at idle and cruise but as soon as any amount of  throttle is added pressure starts dropping. After about 2 seconds of WOT my fuel pressure was down to 3psi and still dropping, this was where the ping started and I let out of it. 

Not sure how I want to address this issue yet. As some of you may know the 70 Riv had in in tank electric pump from the factory. I have not pulled the sending unit out to see how this was bypassed. I have been kicking the idea of putting a Holley Sniper Q-jet on the 455 and that would require 60psi fuel pressure and return. Even just a new inline low pressure pump would work better and live longer with a pressure regulator and return line, this would also help with vapor lock I experienced when outside temps were over 100* this past summer. The whole fuel system could use new rubber lines throughout as they are all very hard but not cracking yet. 

[telriv]

Do a search on V8Buick.com    Best part it's free to join.

Jeff, Yardley, has a full write-up of the problems he had with his '69. 

Part numbers, where to buy, from which vehicle it's from, etc.

 

Tom T.

[BrianM]

I am a member on v8Buick.com I will do a search and see if I can find that thread. So much on that forum is Skylark specific when it comes to Buick chassis. It is hands down the best place for Buick engine and transmission info and trouble shooting I have found. I get the best Riviera specific info on this forum. ROA is great but hard to dig though all of the back issues of theRiview to find what I am looking for unless I am on my desktop PC.

[EmTee]

8 hours ago, BrianM said:

I really need to put a dedicated fire extinguisher in the Riv.

 

I have one of these in my '38:  https://elementfire.com/

 

 

 

I need to buy a couple more for the others.  Dry chemical can cause as much damage as the fire; the Element emits inert gas that is non-corrosive.  It's also small and light, so it is easy to mount where it will be accessible.

[BrianM]

thanks EmTee, I was unaware of this product. A little on the spendy side but I have added one to the cart with a magnetic clip.

[telriv]

How much will it save you in the end IF & WHEN it comes time to use it.

 

Tom T.

[EmTee]

Unlike BC fire extinguishers, the Element should last indefinitely if it is kept clean & dry.  Nothing to leak or recharge.  If you want, you can always carry a traditional BC extinguisher as back-up.  I have the one in my '38 strapped to the steering column where I can grab it quickly if necessary.

[JZRIV]

The E50 Element is a superior product made in Italy. All I'll say to anyone not familiar with them is do the research. They are certified in Europe by CE but not UL listed in US because UL does not recognize them as a fire extinguisher in the traditional sense (because they don't look like one). For this reason they aren't being recognized in the US where UL certified fire extinguishers are required. Typical bureaucratic BS. 

 

I have researched them extensively and they are a revolutionary product that's going to gain in popularity and likely eventually once pressure is put on UL to approve them, they will cut into the traditional extinguisher sales, and into OSHA monthly and annual inspection requirements as well as mandatory replacement every 12 years for businesses. The bigger E100 is for industrial use. Weighing all the benefits the E50 is a no brainer for personal use. I have 2 of them for antique motorcycles and plan to get more more for vehicles, garage, tractors, etc. They are rapidly gaining awareness in the motorcycle world. I was at a national road run event back in Sept and one of the Directors brought 3 cases (36) to the banquet, did a little promotion using an example of a member who's bike caught fire and rider had severe burns as well as the bike being a total loss. No one riding with him had an extinguisher.

He sold all 36 at cost as fast as people could get in line and $65 cash out of their wallet.

 

The cheapest way to buy is on ebay in quantity. If you buy 6 the cost is around $64 each including shipping. the less you buy the price goes up.  

Edited November 12, 2022 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[BrianM]

Ordered my E50 and it is on the way. 

[BrianM]

At cars and coffee Saturday my wife pointed out that I have a reverse light out. So today's questions:

What is the best way to access the tail lights on a 1970?

Am I supposed to remove the roll pan under the bumper to get access to the tail lights?

Is there a trick that I am overlooking? I tried to get my hand in there and I could touch all of the plugs but was afraid I was going to break something without knowing how the plugs are connected or if they had tabs that needed to be pressed or turned or whatever to release the bulb.

Edited January 24, 2023 by BrianM
grammar (see edit history)

[EmTee]

They should just pull/snap out.  I haven't removed them on a '70 Riviera personally, but I remember a similar situation with my family's '70 Catalina.  On that there were two small Phillips-head screws; one at each end of the tail light assembly.  They screwed up into an L-bracket attached to the bumper above the bumper opening.  Removing those screws allowed the tail light assembly to be wiggled out of the bumper far enough to remove the light sockets (just snap out).  The alternative, as you noted, is to try reaching up behind the bumper.  Maybe try getting  in from behind the license plate?  I'm pretty sure the tail light assembly can be detached from the bumper somehow.

[BrianM]

I didn't see an obvious way to get to them and didn't want to push or twist too much on old plastic without being able to see what I was doing or how it was supposed to come apart. Guess I need to dig through the manual or the Chassis manual and see if there are tips or tricks somewhere.

Thanks as always EmTee, oh yeah, I got my Element E50 extinguisher in and mounted in my car so a little more piece of mind for me. Thanks for the tip on that product. I hope I never have to use it.

[EmTee]

7 hours ago, BrianM said:

I hope I never have to use it.

That makes two of us! 

[EmTee]

7 hours ago, BrianM said:

Guess I need to dig through the manual or the Chassis manual and see if there are tips or tricks somewhere.

Just had another thought...  Is there a filler between the trunk opening and the top edge of the bumper with the trunk lid open?  If so, maybe that is the way to access the backside of the tail lamp assembly?  Now I am curious...

[BrianM]

On 1/25/2023 at 6:31 PM, EmTee said:

Just had another thought...  Is there a filler between the trunk opening and the top edge of the bumper with the trunk lid open?  If so, maybe that is the way to access the backside of the tail lamp assembly?  Now I am curious...

Yes you nailed it there is a filler between trunk and bumper and that gives access to the tail lights.

 

This kinda turned into a can of worms on me. The filler panel was damaged and repaired poorly and about fell apart when I took it off. I could only reach 3 of the 6 bulbs in each taillight with the taillights in the car. Each of the bulbs I could reach and remove had heavy white dust like corrosion (think battery terminal on the old tractor). 

I cleaned up and treated the ones I could but I will need to completely remove both tail lights and address possible corrosion on all the bulb sockets. Several I was able to reach I was unable to get the bulb socket to release from the housing. I think they were jammed in there wrong by someone at some point. I had successfully changed the bad bulb and just wrapped it up and called it a day and a win.
 

[RIVNIK]

 What a saga!    Hey Brian, don't you have a domestic labor force on hand? How hard would it be to unbolt the bumper and rest it on jack-stands or something similar while you refurbish the taillight assemblies. I have no '70 experience so I have no idea if that's even an option, but some bumpers come off quite easily & others do not. I believe I did this on my '65 many years ago. I was able to replace bulbs, clean up the receptacles, connections, etc & install reflective mylar behind them. You could also address your bumper filler problem. Anyway, I can't wait too see what happens next.     Drew

[BrianM]

Today's adventure in Buick ownership started last weekend. I had taken my wife out for date night in the Riv, a pop up thunderstorm on the drive home was unexpected but not a big deal until at 55mph I ran into the granddaddy of all armadillo's and couldn't dodge on the wet roads. This particular armadillo must have had a small tank or giant tortoise in it's ancestry. My exhaust took a serious hit and now I have a massive exhaust leak.  

[BrianM]

The day after this happened I took it out for a drive and I started to hear some ticking from exhaust. Then major exhaust noise. On further investigation the exhaust pipe is disconnected at the exhaust manifold. One of the keeper bolts is completely gone and pipe is only barely connected to the manifold by the other. 

So I am guessing I will need to remove the manifold to replace the bolt that I am assuming was broke off in the manifold that connects to the exhaust pipe.

What I need help with is a parts list. Do I need to get all new manifold to head bolts or can I reuse the ones I have? I do not see a gasket between the head and the manifold, is that correct or should I add a gasket? On the other side where the exhaust meets the manifold is that a stud and nut arrangement or bolt and lock washer or what exactly? Is there a gasket at this location? Size, grade,  and thread pitch on all of the needed hardware would be appreciated and maybe I can get parts on lunch today.

 

Thanks,

Brian

[RivNut]

You can reuse the existing bolts. Are the French locks still in place?  It might take some work to remove the bolt if it is in fact broken off.  The factory did not use gaskets between the exhaust manifolds and the heads. Good luck.