rjp Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 the clutch on my 1920 Buick alot of the times, when starting out will ratel and grab and shake the hole car. Sounds real bad!! Is that bad disks? or worse. Has anyone else experienced such a thing. I took off trans top and bearings look good and built up the shifting forks some. Thanks Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 15, 2021 Author Share Posted October 15, 2021 I did drop the oil in the trans. and found no grindings, also used a magnet and still found nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 15, 2021 Author Share Posted October 15, 2021 I did find the old posts on the clutch, just wanting to make sure its the clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 Sounds like clutch discs alright. Trans will make noise only when underway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 16, 2021 Author Share Posted October 16, 2021 Thank you, Its no easy job the way it looks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 (edited) Sometimes if a clutch gets dirty or oily it will do this. Sometimes it can be helped with a soaking of Brake-Kleen or allowing the clutch to slip enough to cut dirt. If you are going to go to the trouble of replacement it won't hurt to try some old backyard fixes. I do not know a Buick clutch and others need to give you specific help. Edited October 17, 2021 by JFranklin Added caveat (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 17, 2021 Author Share Posted October 17, 2021 Great thats one thing I was hoping for. how is the best way to put a soaking of brake glean in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 Roger, On my 1925 Buick, there is an upper clutch inspection plate held with 2 screws, and you can remove the lower flywheel cover by removing maybe 7 bolts. Start by pulling these and post some pictures. Each friction disc has an end seam as the original friction material is 5/32” by about 1”, but formed into a circle. If these have failed you will see frayed fabric outside the outer circumference of the disc. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 17, 2021 Author Share Posted October 17, 2021 I put two cans of brake clean down inspection hole while working the clutch and turning it around . Started it up and slipping the clutch rev. then forward. About 15 times. Same thing. I had no problems , I thought it worked until I let my foot clear of the clutch peddle. I did not see any thing bad as far as bad friction disks. Iam out of time now for a couple of weeks. I did get alot of rust out the bottom . Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 23, 2021 Author Share Posted October 23, 2021 How far back does the rear end have to move backward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 23, 2021 Share Posted October 23, 2021 2 feet or so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Ok, thanks. I might try tomorrow cant seem to gain much. The linings look almost new but I cant get a good measure. There is alot of rust. How much or how big can the slots be in the disks where the studs go?? Thanks again. Roger Washington State Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVRewz2TGmY&t=31s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Thank you, nothing to it! Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Got rear end and trany and clutch out. The lining is ok, the plates are pitted but smooth, not sure it was put together right. The ears on the clutches were on the pins on the clutch not the fly wheel. I will look at the pictures again. All tabs go toward fly wheel? Thanks I will post some pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 (edited) Some of the tabs or ears are worn and even broke off. If I built new ones what is the distance in the slot or between ears? Thanks Roger Edited October 24, 2021 by rjp (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Here some pictures: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 Good thing you pulled that clutch out. It was put together wrong. The outer tabs belong on the 3 flywheel studs that have flat sides. When installing, it is good to put a little grease on the outer tabs and the flat sides of the studs. The inner tabs get a touch of grease as do the flats of the clutch spider. You need to replace any disc that has broken tabs. The original friction discs were replaced if the friction disc material is a solid ring of friction material. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 I have some spare drive discs if you need them. How many you need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 The Clutch guy that looked at it most the afternoon thought the the one tab that sticks out on all disks should not all be on the same bolt. but staggered all the way around. Any thoughts? Thanks Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 This topic should answer your questions. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 12 hours ago, Morgan Wright said: This topic should answer your questions. so they can run either way? I had the bottum one upside down from the rest, but I dont think any thing on mine was correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 12 minutes ago, rjp said: I would do it the way the illustration is. The illustration on this thread is 4 cylinder, there were only 4 driven discs not 5, the 6 cylinder has 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 Roger, I do not think it really matters which way the tabs are facing on either the inner or the outer tabs. The factory photo shows the way they were installed, but you may get more life by flipping them. They also need a little grease on the tab. I have also seen them installed with tabs facing each other in pairs. It looks like your steel discs may be OK depending on how smooth the friction surface is. For the double sided friction discs, you are missing outer tabs on some due to improper prior assembly. You need to remove the rivets and get new steel backing plates. You may only need the longer BR5-6 rivets, and the rivet flare tool. See the link below. The steel discs with friction liners are easier to find because they are not a wear item like the steel only discs. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 29, 2021 Author Share Posted October 29, 2021 IF I was to order the rivets what would I ask for? Br 5-6 9/64? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 They know them as BR5-6. I believe the BR5 refers to the diameter and the 6 is the length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 29, 2021 Author Share Posted October 29, 2021 Ok, thanks my hardware store might have them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 BR would refer to Brass. I used #5-6s rivets on my clutch relining. All the units I have seen on both my 1925s, on the spare engines I have and the one spare clutch I bought all show tabs up. Standard left. Master right. Using my drill press to set the rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 I have both discs available Looks like the ears on many of yours are shot. PM me for details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 3 hours ago, Brian_Heil said: I have both discs available Looks like the ears on many of yours are shot. PM me for details I already sent him 4 discs with good ears (but they need new linings) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjp Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 When ever I look up BR 5/6 rivets they come up with measurements What does a 5/6 measure? Not to smart on my part I guess. Thanks Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 This is what you want. These are 3/8" long. Hugh http://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?itemNbr=XB0506 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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