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1928-1931 Cadillac-LaSalle pot metal failure.


edinmass

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9 minutes ago, carbking said:

The answer is an "indefinite maybe" ;)

 

Regardless of the current repro one bowl fits all, but is correct for NONE; there were several different bowls. It MIGHT interchange IF you also interchange pumps, aspirator valves, metering needles/glands, etc., etc., etc.

 

Thank you Mr. Carburetor. I sure do appreciate your expertise.

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Has the new technology of 3d printing improved things? Up until now it was possible to 3d print plastic molds that could be used to make sand castings or lost wax castings. Now they are doing it with sintered metal, that may allow making distributors, carburetors etc directly.

 

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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Peter R

 

 

Shame on you! You used the word “good” and Johnson carburetor in the same paragraph! Never, ever should such a blasphemy ever occur. A old worn out boot with a hole in it is a much better fuel metering device than anything that says Cadillac -Johnson. 

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Guess this kinda answered my question in an unambiguous way  - thanks..... 🙂

 

Nothing is worthless....even a Johnson carburetor has the right to leastwise exist as a bad example.... 

 

BTW I'm currently working on a 1913 Cadillac....I should stick to its Johnson I guess.

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7 hours ago, JRA said:

Does late 1920’s Lincoln’s (1925-1929) have potmeral issues too?

 

1927-30 Lincolns used Delco-Remy distributor 4029 so you can expect pot metal issues. 1921-27 Lincolns used Delco distributor 5226. These have aluminum distributor housings. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think late 20's Lincolns used O-3 or OX-3 Stomberg brass carburetors. Good choice and no issues I'd say. I don't know about other pot metal parts on Lincolns.

Edited by Peter R. (see edit history)
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6 hours ago, Peter R. said:

 

1927-30 Lincolns used Delco-Remy distributor 4029 so you can expect pot metal issues. 1921-27 Lincolns used Delco distributor 5226. These have aluminum distributor housings. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think late 20's Lincolns used O-3 or OX-3 Stomberg brass carburetors. Good choice and no issues I'd say. I don't know about other pot metal parts on Lincolns.

 

O-3 Stromberg brass, but an internal pot metal venturi.

 

The OX-3 was used only by Chrysler and Locomobile on passenger vehicles (but if I had a Dodge Senior Six with the UX-3 it would find an OX-3 very quicklY).

 

Jon.

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Peter R

 

1913 Cadillac carbs are no bargain.........use a brass float, and install a bleeder valve on the system to release at 2 psi. Also, an electric switch to cut off fuel in the event of a fire. Disconnect the gasoline heater element in the carb also. The Cadillac’s of those years burn like crazy.

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5 hours ago, carbking said:

O-3 Stromberg brass, but an internal pot metal venturi.

 

And here we go....

....as you said, 1927-30 Lincoln Stromberg O-3 (Eqt.# A-11383X4) brass carburetor with pot metal venturi.

 

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5 hours ago, carbking said:

(but if I had a Dodge Senior Six with the UX-3 it would find an OX-3 very quicklY).

 

I have some UX Strombergs on the shelf. They're made out of pot metal....and they're cracked of course.

Recently I was asked to help fix a Stromberg UX-4 for a 1928 Chrysler Imperial. They destroyed the main discharge jet when they tried to take the carburetor apart. I made a new one and the car runs very smooth again. According to the Stromberg manual the UX-4 is a die cast carburetor but the one they sent me is out of aluminum. Did Stromberg make UX carburetors out of pot metal AND aluminum...?

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5 hours ago, edinmass said:

1913 Cadillac carbs are no bargain.........use a brass float, and install a bleeder valve on the system to release at 2 psi. Also, an electric switch to cut off fuel in the event of a fire. Disconnect the gasoline heater element in the carb also. The Cadillac’s of those years burn like crazy.

 

Ed, thanks for your advice. I'll keep it in mind when I get to the engine. Peter 

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The UX-4 that we had was die-cast.

 

HOWEVER:

 

Maybe 10 years ago (time flies when you are having fun), we sold a rebuilding kit for a "Stromberg UX-4". The kit is hand-made, and not cheap. The customer called to inform me that the needle and seat and the main gasket did not fit?????

 

I have the original Stromberg drawings, and the kit was made from the drawings; how does it not fit???

 

Well, we try to keep happy customers. It isn't always possible, but we do try. I told the customer to send me the bowl, the float, and the needle and seat.

 

THE BOWL WAS ALUMINUM! There were obvious changes from the original (at the time I had a UX-4 for comparison, that has since been sold). The bowl was close, but one of the bowl cover attaching screw holes had been moved roughly 3/8 inch, and the floor of the bowl had been raised, to accomodate a totally different fuel valve, possibly from a truck.

 

So what can I do? I hand-cut a custom gasket, and machined a duplicate of his incorrect fuel valve, and sent it back. He has since purchased other items, so guess he was happy.

 

I cannot in good conscience call this a reproduction carburetor, as a reproduction should be an exact duplicate. This was an imitation UX-4; but the bowl WAS aluminum.

 

Perhaps, whoever made one imitation, made more than one?

 

Jon.

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21 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Has the new technology of 3d printing improved things?

 

Yes... but too a point. As I have said before the 3D printing part, whether in metal or plastic is the easy part. Its the time and expertise to get to that point that is the stumbling block in regards to cost unless you have the software and experience to do it yourself. Few people are willing to pay the $$$$$ to have the design and engineering done that is required before the part can be 3D printed. Yes, there are people out there that will do it cheap but you get what you pay for.

 

A case in point. We recently reverse engineered and fabricated a one-off radiator cap and knob. We had only period photos and measurements of the opening to go by. No biggie - we have also worked from original parts and patent drawings.  From these we were able to create the 3D models and shop drawings in Solidworks. Our original intent was to have the parts cast using 3D printed patterns. (cheap) As it turned out, time constraints and foundry availability put the kibosh on that. Our next option was 3D metal printing. (quick but more expensive) However, because of the size and geometry of the cap that couldn't be done for fear of warping. So we ended up CNC milling the cap from solid. (most expensive). If we not done this project pro bono it would have been an expensive project indeed once we included CNC programming, setup, machine time and material on top of the design and engineering. However, the knob was 3D printed in metal. It came out great though there was quite a bit of finish work to remove layering. In addition, it did not have 100% infill which presented a few problems when we machined it. 

 

Don't take this as being negative towards to technology because its truly amazing and I love working with it. However, like anything else its all about using the correct methodology for the application. There still may be machining involved, there is still calculation of fit and tolerances, there is still the need to chose the correct material - some 3D printed metals are very difficult to machine, and the need to determine properties (resolution and infill etc.) On the 3D metal printing end there are also shrink rates to consider.

 

I should also mention that we will eventually have the cap cast in grey cast iron as it was originally. Milling it out of a solid block of cast Iron would have potentially experienced the same problems with warping and possible cracking due to stress in the material.

 

In this photo you can see the finished cap & knob as well as the 3D printed PLA mock-up to test fit and a test run of the CNC program in machinable wax. As with any project we also have a complete set of shop drawings. All of this represents time and time in engineering is $$$$$$$.

 

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42 minutes ago, carbking said:

The customer called to inform me that the needle and seat and the main gasket did not fit?????

 

Very interesting, I sent a UX-4 gasket set along with the parts that I machined and cleaned and the customer also claimed that main gasket wouldn't fit....(!?!)

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Peter - I had no need to see the entire carburetor; so did not ask the customer to trust it to the mails.

 

I do not know if it was all aluminum or not.

 

From what I remember, the lower bowl cover screw in your picture was moved roughly 3/8 inch.

 

As you are aware, only Chrysler used the UX-4 as original equipment.

 

Jon.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Many years ago, at an auction, we bought a case of 24 NOS aftermarket die cast rad caps in their original boxes, 1920's era stuff.  We looked at the top row and they were in nice condition.  At home we looked thru the case.  All but the top row were disintegrated to where we could literally pour the bits and pieces from the boxes.

 

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Just now, Restorer32 said:

Many years ago, at an auction, we bought a case of 24 NOS aftermarket die cast rad caps in their original boxes, 1920's era stuff.  We looked at the top row and they were in nice condition.  At home we looked thru the case.  All but the top row were disintegrated to where we could literally pour the bits and pieces from the boxes.

 

 

Been there, done that, ;lesson learned. Like the guy who put tape over the wheel snap rings where the crack was to mark the price...........

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It’s all good.........pot metal or bad experiences of the show field or swap meet............all good.

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