SC38dls Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 I’m looking for info on how to adjust the suspension. My left front tire is worn out after 5000 miles and the right front is fine. Both bought at same time. The inside seems more worn than the outside. Is it as simple as lengthening the control arm or would I tighten it? Is it something else? Any help would be appreciated. dave s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris piazza Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 4 hours ago, SC38DLS said: I’m looking for info on how to adjust the suspension. My left front tire is worn out after 5000 miles and the right front is fine. Both bought at same time. The inside seems more worn than the outside. Is it as simple as lengthening the control arm or would I tighten it? Is it something else? Any help would be appreciated. dave s I'm not 100% sure but, I believe you add or subtract shims located at the top of the king pin housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 Thanks I’ll see if there are any there now. Hopefully the left side will show me some I can compare too. dave s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cowtown Commander Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 Pages 86 and 87 of the shop manual. Specified front wheel Camber is 1/4 degree to 3/4 degree. The chamber can be adjusted by turning the eccentric located at the outer end of the steering knuckle support arm (the round tube that runs from the top of the frame to the top of the king pin casting by the wheel) The camber can be adjusted by turning the eccentric, located at the outer end of the steering knuckle support arm. Front Wheel Toe in. The specified front wheel toe in is 1/16” to 1/8”. Toe in is adjusted by changing the length of the adjustable tie Rod. Caster is determined by the relation of the front spring to the frame. It is factory set at minus 1/4” to plus 3/4” and is factory set and can not be changed. How you get these measurements and what equipment is needed is above my pay grade but if you need a copy of these pages let me know and I’d be happy to email the pages with the diagrams and additional data. It also discusses proper king pin inclination (5-1/2 degrees) but does not explain how to make adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 Thank you. I got a copy of the pages from another Studebaker owner about 20 minutes ago. Great minds on the same channel, I appreciate it. Ow all I have to do is understand all of it and figure out how to measure it. I was told the most g pins may be adjusted y shims. I’ll do more research and post results. Thanks again dave s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studeboy Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 Also since it is just wear on one side before you adjust anything else make sure the wheel bearing on that side is properly adjusted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 The whole left side will be checked over by the time I’m finished. I don’t feel anything out of line when driving it either at speed or just around town. I appreciate all of these suggestions and willlet you all know the results. dave s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvonada Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 Shims are used on the control arms. The spring does not have a lot of adjustment to it. You might check to verify the shocks are all good and the spring does not have a broken leaf. Here is a picture of the shims on mine: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Thanks. Time will tell as to condition of bearings, springs, shocks and shims. I’ve got braces on both legs so I try to do all the research before getting under the car. I even try to have all possible tools as it is difficult to keep getting up and down. Thanks to C19 my business is closed so I have more time now but the old body just doesn’t want to cooperate as much as it use to. I will check it all out today and talk to the one shop that may beagle to help. I will post results so as to not leave anyone hanging after trying to help me. Thanks again. dave s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studerex Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 The first thing I would look at is the condition of the upper A arm rubber bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Everything looks OK as far as the eye can see. Nothing loose, bearing seems OK, The bushings all look OK but not sure I would know if they were worn out just by looking at them. I went to the guy I know that does all kinds of foreign and older US cars. Unfortunately he does not do alignments. He sent me to another older guy that he sends his cars too. The fenders on the 38 will not allow the machine to be hooked up. I offered to take the fender off but he said the machine would not have the proper specs and I need to find an older machine. He also said it requires a very lucky try to do it with out a machine. I am not a lucky guy in general. Time to do more research. dave s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 Try a tire/alignment shop that works on or specializes in medium-duty trucks, but carry in the shop manual pages with you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Rohrbach Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 1938 Shop Manual (studebakermuseum.org) For sale :Only $22.50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 (edited) Thanks guys. I have a shop manual a friend sent me yesterday. Today I found a shop that says yes they can do a 38 Studebaker per the machine technical manual. I have an appointment next week and will keep you all posted regarding results. Thanks for all your input. dave s Edited November 24, 2020 by SC38DLS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvonada Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 +1 on the truck place. I found a shop that does about 50% trucks and farm equipment. Alignments on the Stude and my tube tires did not phase them a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John DePrey Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 +1 on Rex's comment. Upper bushings are just rubber and you cant see them. Stude International has em for like $3 each. Just did my parents' '41, not difficult, likely after replacement camber will be close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 John. I assume you had to take the steer control arm off to find the bad bushings or does it have a lot of free play and you then knew it was the cause of the problem? dave s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John DePrey Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 On 11/28/2020 at 10:15 AM, SC38DLS said: John. I assume you had to take the steer control arm off to find the bad bushings or does it have a lot of free play and you then knew it was the cause of the problem? dave s no, you can do front bushing set while leaving rear in and then vice versa. Remove top bolt in pic and crimped cap, then remove the 2 bolts that holds that fitting to the frame. The fitting then slides right off the control arm shaft. Dad's car had significant negative camber... You may also be able to tell it's off center by looking at a good one but most dont have that luxury. The crimped cap under the upper bolt actually crimps on the shaft that is part of the control arm. I had better luck squeezing it about 90 degrees from crimp direction with a large vise grips than I did just prying. You will need to re-use the caps of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 Thank you. It’s makes sense now, good instructions! I did put it up on jack stands and could not find any play in anything. But for three bolts it’s worth pulling just to check it out. I will post results. thanks again dave s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 Got it figured out. With the car on jack stands nothing seems loose but put it back on the ground and it’s a different story. The right steering rod knuckle is worn and loose. Up off the ground and the weight of the wheel and suspension parts weight keeps it from moving. It was hard for an old crippled up fat guy to slide under it and start trying to move parts and see what part was moving. I lift would have made things much easier but this is out of my budget range. ordered both knuckles as I figured if one is worn best to replace both for the extra $38 knuckle cost. Going to have alignment checked tomorrow. Total cost of 2 knuckles, 2 tires, mounting, balance and alignment was just over $600. dave s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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