Cowtown Commander

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Cowtown Commander

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 12/31/1948

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Does anyone have a pair of "Commander" script used on the engine side panels of 1939 & 1940 that they are willing to sell. Please let me know as need them to complete restoration. 817-nine, two, four 06 two four. Thanks
  2. Click on Studeq and send Richard a message and he'll let you know what literature he has and pricing. For the gaskets contact Olson's gaskets at 360-871-1207 or
  3. Studebaker International shows the complete assembly bucket, bulb, and rim as part # 273760 at $225.00 per side.
  4. Wife went out shopping so I got access to the back of the garage and I found the latch. Took photo of the 1938 striker plate on my car. Don't have a spare striker so you'll have to get one of those or make one. Get me your address and we will get latch boxed and off to you. My e-mail is
  5. The auction ended May 25, 2018. I don't know of any way of contacting either the seller or purchaser to determine what is being done with the car. Perhaps others more familiar with E-Bay know a way to contact either the buyer or seller. Car certainly was a bargain for someone needing these part as it sold for $203.50 - it may even be less than scrap value.
  6. Richard Quinn probably has the info your requesting and if your real nice give you the name and address of the girl on the running board.
  7. I know I have the latch, I've checked my lists of inventoried parts and it doesn't appear so I will look in the boxes I haven't inventoried yet. It may take me a few days but I'll do it as soon as I can. Thanks for the photos, the 37 striker is different than 38. Hopefully someone has a 37 parts car but if not it could probably be fabricated..
  8. Part number 262591 lock was used for 3 years 1936, 1937, and 1938. Somewhere in my spare part assortment I have the lock as I removed it from a 1938 parts car I used to have. We need to know what model of car he has as there were 2 different strickers used - # 262787 for 1936 & 1937 4 door models W3, W6 and 2 door models F2, F4 and F6 # 262547 for 193;6 & 1937 4 door models W1, W4, W8; 2 door models F2, F4, F8 and Coupe models. The strickers could be fabbed if we had a sample or got the drawings from South Bend. If you need me to start the search let me know as I can provide a lock but not a striker
  9. Your door latch was used by Studebaker for many years by Studebaker (36 to 46 and 1941-1948M Series Truck and also 1949-56 C cab truck. For the drivers side front is # 265167 and # 265164 on the passenger front. Studebaker International shows to have the 265167 you need NOS for $90.00. These same latches were used on the rear. I have some used for a lot less. What generally fails is a spring but you have to take the latch apart to replace - have some springs I'll send for free if you want to try that. Greg Cubia is building a world class 38 Coupe Express and had collected a couple of sets of hinges but all had wear at the pivot point. So he took a set of hinges to a machine shop in Wichita Falls and they inserted bushings at the pivot point to make the hinges work better than new. I'm sure it wasn't cheap but it solved the problem- I can get further details if someone needs them.
  10. Milt Yoder had a NOS hinge he advertised for a long time on e-bay, I don't know if he still has it or if it finally sold. The part # for the hinge with spring is 267842 (right - passenger side) and 267843 (left) and the chassis book indicates they were used on 1938 to 1940 Commanders and Presidents. I have one with a link that was cut but know of a couple of sets in Wichita Falls Texas that need bushings inserted. PM me and I'll get you Greg's contact info and also Milts e-mail. Ernie Loga has reproduced the springs. There is a young man in West Dallas that has rebuilt a 1939 Coupe that needs some side trim - do you have any to spare?
  11. I'd suggest you try contacting Ted Jensen who lives in Pawling NY and rebuilds Studebaker Engines. (Google Ted Jensen Studebaker Engines and you'll get his contact information) as he might be interested in the engine as a core & he is at least in the same state. You might advertise it on the Studebaker swap page and on the SDC forum.
  12. Jerry Kurtz rebuilds transmissions and adds overdrive from later model trans. I would suggest contacting Jerry and I'll bet he will be able to provide you with a transmission that you'll be very happy with. PM me and I'll get you his contact information.
  13. When I was restoring my 1938 Coupe I found a 1950 Truck Engine (245 cubic inch with insert rod bearings) that we opted to use in lieu of the Original 226 engine with poured rod bearings. The mechanic used the starter, distributor, and carburetor from the original car as these items had been overhauled about 6 months prior. Am I correct in assuming that while the entire distributor assemblies interchange I will need to order distributor caps, rotors and points for a 1938 car as the Auto Lite IGW 4101 distributor originally provided on the car uses a different cap & rotor than the Auto Lite IGC 4802 distributor on the truck engine?
  14. Thanks so much for the information Steve, I'll be getting a send unit and let everyone know how it turns out. Electricity has never been one of my strengths but from the data I had read and the information you provided we'll get a sender ordered and see what transpires. Here is the information from Tanks website on Universal Fuel Sender Questions and Troubleshooting Which sender should I choose? The resistance of your fuel sender should match that of your gauge. For instance the resistance of the stock gauge in a 55 Chevy has a value of zero ohms when empty and 30 ohms when full. The following list is for stock gauges and some popular aftermarket brands: Ford up to 1986 - 73-10 Ohms Ford 1987 & up - 16-158 Ohms GM up to 1964 - 0-30 Ohms GM 1965-1997 - 0-90 Ohms GM 1998 & up - 40-250 Ohms Mopar up to 1986 - 73-10 Ohms AMC 1950-1977 - 73-10 Ohms Autometer -240-33 Ohms is the most common however other ohm ranges are made Classic Instruments - 240-33 Ohms (excluding vehicle specific gauge kits which use factory ohm range) Dolphin - 0-90 Ohms Dakota Digital - Programmable to work with most Ohm range senders VDO - 10-180 Ohms The first number represents the empty Ohm reading and the second number is the full reading. My fuel gauge only reads empty. If you cannot make your gauge read anything but empty then depending on your ohm range you may have one of the following problems: If you have a 0-30, 0-90, and 10-180 Ohm sender then most likely your sender lead wire is grounding out somewhere. Or possibly the center terminal on the sending unit itself is grounding out against the body of the car. If you have a 240-33 or 73-10 Ohm sender then the sender may not have a proper ground or there is a break in the sender lead wire. My fuel gauge only reads full. If you cannot make your gauge read anything but full then depending on your ohm range you may have one of the following problems: If you have a 0-30, 0-90 or 10-180 Ohm sender then the sender may not have a proper ground or there is a break in the sender lead wire. If you have a 240-33 or 73-10 Ohm sender then most likely your sender lead wire is grounding out somewhere. Or possibly the center terminal on the sending unit itself is grounding out against the body of the car. Sender Bolt Pattern & Swing Our tanks are set up for the standard SAE 5-hole bolt pattern used by all of the aftermarket gauge manufacturers. The 5-holes are not evenly spaced. Two of the holes are farther apart than the other holes. If you are holding the sender with those two holes closest to your body, the hole directly across is known as the index hole. If the float swings to the right, it is a right-swing sender . If it swings to the left, it is a left-swing sender. Will this sender work with a 6 volt system? Yes. Your fuel gauge is simply reading a resistance to ground. Because your gauge is simply reading the amount of resistance to ground this sender will work regardless of the voltage of your car. How does a fuel sender work? Fuel senders have a rheostat that provides a resistance to ground. As the fuel arm moves from the empty to the full position a contact is moved across the board on the rheostat which varies the resistance seen by the fuel gauge. For example a 69 Camaro has a 0-90 ohm fuel sender. When the sender is at the empty position the rheostat is not creating any resistance to ground (zero ohms). When the fuel sender is in the full position the rheostat is creating 90 ohms of resistance to ground. Because the gauge is reading a resistance to ground having proper grounding of the sending unit is essential to get an accurate reading on your fuel gauge. How do I test my fuel sender? A fuel sender can be bench tested with a multimeter. With the multimeter set to the Ω setting put the red probe on the post that is the gauge lead and put the black probe on the ground post or on the body of the fuel sender. Record your readings with the fuel sender in the empty position and in the full position. Those two numbers will tell you the ohm range is of your sender. Why does my gauge read backwards? The first step would be to make sure that you have the proper ohm range fuel sender to match your gauges. For example a 73-10 ohm fuel sender would read backwards on a 0-90 ohm fuel gauge. If you find you have the correct ohm range fuel sender make sure that the float arm is installed on the correct side. The front of the rheostat shows which side the float should stick out from. If the float arm is installed on the other side the gauge will read backwards. Also if the rheostat is installed upside down the gauge will read backwards. I took my sender apart and now it doesn't work. If for some reason you have disassembled your sender and now can't get it to read check the following: Make sure that the bracket is in full contact with the flange. There should be full continuity between the metal strip between the rheostat and the bracket and the bracket and the flange. Make sure that the center gauge lead post is isolated from the flange and bracket. If that post is grounding out you will only see zero ohms on a gauge or multimeter. I'll post the instructions in a minute but the float rod length is a function of the tank depth and I'll take measurements tomorrow on tank depth but as I recall the tank depth is under a foot and thus the float rod length is under 8 inches.