elanmike Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 It looks like I may need to pull my 401 to put new freeze plugs in. Since the engine will be completely out it will one of those "while we are at" it projects. I was thinking about detailing the motor and bay. I have the Hirsch Green for the motor. What will replicate the satin black of the inner fenders and such. I would like to get back to as close to OEM. I was thinking of doing the Heater core from the firewall too. Any other thoughts about low hanging fruit since the engine is out? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 (edited) Duplicolor aerosol part no. DE1635 is a perfect match to the original paint on the firewall, inner fenders and radiator support.Here's how it looks on my engine compartment. I also used it on the engine brackets and the air cleaner. Edited November 11, 2020 by Seafoam65 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 (edited) One other note, the Hirsch Buick green is less blue and more green than the original paint was on my engine. I was unable to find anything that was a really good match to my original engine paint, so I went ahead with the Hirsch paint, although I'm not enthralled with it. Here's a shot of my original paint on the engine compartment. You will note that the engine in this shot is bluer..... Edited November 11, 2020 by Seafoam65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elanmike Posted November 11, 2020 Author Share Posted November 11, 2020 Thanks, your car is spectacular. My research regarding the engine paint was the same. Slightly off (but it seems to be a one year phenomena). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 Here is my Bill Hirsch paint going on in the mid 1990's. \ The black is Valspar Satin Black Polyurethane over gray 2 part epoxy primer . Still looks the same today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 They must have changed the formula as that paint is not green at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 I repainted the engine in my '64 using CARS' Buick Green. It's green with no hint of blue in it. Looks correct to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 Here's a paint comparison that I did using "Buick Green" from Classic Buicks on the left, "Buick Green" from CARS in the center, and Alpine Green (Detroit Diesel) on the right. The Buick Green from Classic Buick is in reality Ford Green. Classic Buick just scratches "FORD" off the label on the cap. I took this picture inside under fluorescent lights. You can see what Classic Buicks did to the cap. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crowvet Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 9 hours ago, RivNut said: Here's a paint comparison that I did using "Buick Green" from Classic Buicks on the left, "Buick Green" from CARS in the center, and Alpine Green (Detroit Diesel) on the right. The Buick Green from Classic Buick is in reality Ford Green. Classic Buick just scratches "FORD" off the label on the cap. I took this picture inside under fluorescent lights. You can see what Classic Buicks did to the cap. Nice comparison Ed, the DE1617 is what I am using. I am happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elanmike Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 New Freeze Plugs, Timing Chain, oil and fuel pump,water pump and so on. Zero sludge anywhere. Looks like the motor was pulled and refreshed judging by the condition (and the bad freeze plugs). Painted with the Hirsh green paint. Runs strong but still some vacuum and carb tweaking. Project 6 of 32 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 Huge improvement! No sludge is a good sign ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 Looks great! You will want to reverse the battery orientation and get the positive post over by the radiator, away from the fender and hood on that side. They will touch and ground out. Yes, that will force the cables to go across the top of the battery; that's how Buick did it. To do this, move the ground cable to a bolt on at the PS pump bracket instead of the engine block (see shop manual). Then it will be long enough to reach the negative battery post over by the fender. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 Nice! Curious as to why you're not running a clutch driven fan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 (edited) To add to what Jim says about your battery cables, a Dealer Service Bulletin was issued that suggested running the positive cable between the battery and the hold down bolt. It will keep the two cables from contacting each other. The original intent was to keep the battery cable from rubbing against the bell on the larger of the four-note horns, but it's a good idea even if you don't have the four-minute horn option. Edited December 16, 2020 by RivNut (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Balzer Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Rivnut did a color comparison "using "Buick Green" from Classic Buicks on the left, "Buick Green" from CARS in the center, and Alpine Green (Detroit Diesel) on the right." Then elanmike posted gorgeous photos of his engine compartment "Painted with the Hirsh green paint." So -- is "Hirsh paint" one of the three greens tested by Rivnut or another? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 No, Hirsch was not one of the paints in my comparison. I do not know from whom CARS gets their paint, but the other two are national brands that can be found at almost any jobber. The Ford Green is the Dupli-color brand. Alpine Green is available from Krylon and Dupli-color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J3Studio Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 13 hours ago, RivNut said: No, Hirsch was not one of the paints in my comparison. I do not know from whom CARS gets their paint, but the other two are national brands that can be found at almost any jobber. The Ford Green is the Dupli-color brand. Alpine Green is available from Krylon and Dupli-color. Hirsch is still out there: https://www.hirschauto.com/ENGINE-ENAMEL/productinfo/EE-QUART/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elanmike Posted December 18, 2020 Author Share Posted December 18, 2020 Fan was what came with the car and the same with the battery orientation ( I will look at addressing that). The Hirsch paint seemed to work out quite well IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 Hirsh is probably the name in automotive engine paint. Aor conditioned cars had a thermostatically controlled five blade fan. I think if you do a search, you can find where Jim Cannon posted a part#. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 I posted the part number for the thermostatically controlled fan clutch that is used on an A/C car. You will need to find an original fan to go with it. The flex fan may be OK. The concept there is that the blades flatten out at high RPM, for less power drag, when you don't really need the fan. At low RPM they have more curvature and move more air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 10 hours ago, Jim Cannon said: I posted the part number for the thermostatically controlled fan clutch that is used on an A/C car. You will need to find an original fan to go with it. The flex fan may be OK. The concept there is that the blades flatten out at high RPM, for less power drag, when you don't really need the fan. At low RPM they have more curvature and move more air. I`ve seen these flex fans come apart...think about it...flex, flex, flex, flex, flex....break! Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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