Brooklyn Beer Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Looking for a cheap, use it once in a while , valve spring compressor (c type) for mopar flat heads. Can anyone recommend one ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 I bought and used one just like this. Worked great on my flathead chrysler. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-HERBRAND-VL-540-VALVE-SPRING-COMPRESSOR/254359073702?hash=item3b38fb73a6:g:IIAAAOSwmRVdfFzB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted June 30, 2020 Author Share Posted June 30, 2020 Cannot say I have ever seen one like this used before. Does it take much to turn the wheel to compress the spring and get the keepers out ? Arthritis is asking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 It takes less to turn the wheel than to compress the other type in this picture. The easiest one on the hands is the second picture but it is more expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 (edited) I've got 2 or 3 around here someplace, they are not rare in the old car world. Flatheads do not need stiff springs, the valve train is so light. The springs are easy to compress. One of mine you just squeeze like a pair of pliers. They used to turn up at swap meets for a few bucks. No doubt you can pick one up there, or from the popular auction site, or maybe your old car friends have some laying around. You don't need the big C clamp job in Tinindian's picture, that is for OHV engines. Edited June 30, 2020 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 Grab a right size spanner(wrench) and a large washer and bob's your uncle, When you don't have the right tool for the job, one just needs to dodgy it up. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 9 hours ago, Tinindian said: It takes less to turn the wheel than to compress the other type in this picture. The easiest one on the hands is the second picture but it is more expensive. Chris, I have these same three types and agree with Tinindian. In the shop, the c-clamp type gets used the most because it's the easiest. But, to save space in my travel tool box, I use the screw-handle type at the top, which is easier to tighten than the lever type in the middle of those three. And if you need to get just one, the screw handle type will work well on your Franklin's overhead valves without removing the head. Just run compressed air in through a compression gauge fitting, or old spark plug base, or use the old "fill the cylinder with clothes line rope" trick to hold the valve closed. Been there. They show up at garage /yard sales and fleaBay. Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 I believe I had trouble getting the C style one in position on My 36 Chrysler. with the manifolds in the way along with everything else. The smaller ones worked great. I believe I used the wheel style one and again used it on the 48 Plymouth when I did a valve job in car after breaking two springs. Never touched the C clamp style one again. It's still in the box somewhere. I have since I think ended up with a few more that "found me". Usually once people know you mess with old cars you end up inheriting odd tools you may never use but it's sure nice to have them just in case for someone to inherit from you. Still waiting to inherit one of those Miller or Amoco brake tools. I did recently get to clean out an old Mopar dealership well picked over but ended up with several totes of Miller odd ball old tools I have no idea what they are for and a pile of Misc. Mopar small fasteners and what not. Messing with old cars it sure is nice to have Junk bins, especially of NOS fasteners and hardware. I just found some special retainers they used on late 40's early 50's Mopars to put trim on with. kind of like a Sombrero hat with a hole in the middle. Of course I found them Yesterday, a day after I made something up for my 51 Dodge. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 (edited) My son using mine here. Easy-peasy. Just as easy when the engine is in the car too. I have done it both ways. Edited June 30, 2020 by keithb7 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 14 hours ago, auburnseeker said: I believe I had trouble getting the C style one in position on My 36 Chrysler. with the manifolds in the way along with everything else. I have a C style one and it doesn't fit at all on my 22 cadillac, so you have to use the screw style one - I don't know about you guys but mine requires a lot of pressure to compress my springs (which are all originally) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 A magnet on a stick from the Dollar store is handy for taking out the keepers. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 3 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said: A magnet on a stick from the Dollar store is handy for taking out the keepers. A required tool for any tool box. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted July 1, 2020 Author Share Posted July 1, 2020 Since we are on the subject of "also great to have around tools" besides the normal things to tear down a motor and rebuild (torque wrench, etc) what have other folks found that makes life easier for flat head motors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Assuming you have a valve Grinder with the unit to do the seats in the block as well. I picked my really nice Black and Decker Cabinet model (think quality 40's industrial) with more stones than you can imagine for $25 at a Chevy dealer auction going out of business. They seem to be pretty cheap. I actually use the stones in my Dewalt cordless drill. It's alot easier than the monster unit that came with it. Ironically my High school shop teacher stopped in my old shop 20 years after I graduated from school to visit and showed me how to set it all up and use it on my 36 Chrysler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted July 1, 2020 Author Share Posted July 1, 2020 So where these made to be used with the motor in the car ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Van-Dorn-55-Deg-Type-D-Valve-Seat-Grinder-W-Dressing-Stand-Case-Tested/124130113355?hash=item1ce6bb374b:g:IrIAAOSwbqBee6~W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Yes I did both my engines in the car. That's the beauty of them is you don't need to remove the engine. From what I have seen, That one is way overpriced. Lots of old garages closing down or old car guys getting out of the hobby so there are alot of these machines out there very cheap. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted July 1, 2020 Author Share Posted July 1, 2020 I think they are all overpriced on ebay. I just wanted to make sure I was looking at the correct item. I have a plan to rebuild a flat 6 for my 46 Dodge starting in the fall. Never did one before coming from SBC's in my youth with a long military break in between. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Chris, As Auburnseeker said, they turn up. Found my K-O valve and seat grinding equipment through the local Penny Saver weekly sales paper. Keep watching things like Craig's List, local papers, and yard/garage sales. Valve & seat grinders were common tools when all gas stations did auto repair and motor oils were not as good, plus using leaded gas required valve jobs be done more often. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted July 1, 2020 Author Share Posted July 1, 2020 So what is the benefit over the big powered model VS the hand crank ones from like Neway ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 (edited) Mostly speed of getting so many seats done accurately. The hand driven methods are much slower. Especially if there are hardened seats. And that can be back-breaking leaning over fenders for that long. Plus, the motor driven type tend to be more accurate because of possibility of rocking an egg-beater type crank handle while leaning over to reach the engine. That can effect grinding pressure being truly concentric. Hand powered lapping the valves is ok for some quick clean up, if that's all that's needed. But, it's rare that an old engine just needs a quick cleanup. That does not remove years of wear and seat erosion, plus reshape the seat to proper seat/valve face angles like the motor driven stones do after redressing their faces with the diamond-tipped dressing tool and stand that comes with valve seat grinder sets. And without a valve face grinder, your only doing half the wear removal, unless your able to buy new valves. Won't know what it needs until you open it up. But if the seats and valves are really beat, it might be better just to pay someone, who knows what they are doing, to come with a seat grinder and also have them reface the valves. Paul Edited July 1, 2020 by PFitz (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 I don't see the point of buying tools when you might do a valve job once in 10 years if that. Unless you own a garage or auto machine shop you might as well hire it done. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I bought a vintage seat cutting tool on e-bay. I leaned over the engine and hand ground the seats. It was awkward tiresome work. Intakes were easy. The stellite exhaust valve seats were indeed exhausting. Lol. I used a speed wrench mostly. #6 was a tough go. I did the Work over the period of about a week of evenings. I bought new valves and lapped them in. It was humbling, rewarding, cash saving work. I netted great results as all my cylinders gained compression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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