1936 Chrysler Airstream C-8 Convertible Restoration

[ol swede]

Mine go as yours does, tucked up close to the inner fender. Passes right behind the hood latch in a clip then up to the upper hole in radiator support then to l/s light. R/s harness goes up across to r/s on clips attached to rear of grill shell then down to r/s light. My l/s only misses the fan by maybe 1/2 inch.

Hope it helps 

Dale

[VW4X4]

My wiring, (although completely non-stock) follows the same route.  My harness also contains the wires for the horn on the passenger side of the car.

 

It would be smart to put some type of connection where the wires go to the Rad. support.  This always has to be removed, when removing the engine from the car.

 

ERIC

Edited February 10, 2022 by VW4X4 (see edit history)

[Bloo]

It won't help you for authenticity on a Chrysler, but My 36 Pontiac looks exactly like that. It has clips on those visible nuts that go forward, holding the harness down just forward of the bolts (toward the grille). My harness is smaller, but I suspect yours was too when it was made. The clips look about like these, especially the top one. No problem keeping it out of the fan.

 

 

 

[Piaras]

3 hours ago, ... and Professor said:

Pierre,

 

Are you saying that they run along the fender straight past the generator and into the radiator support area and then up to both the left and right headlights?  I cannot picture what you are saying.

 

Joe

Mine go straight pass the rad not going up, before splitting into left/right and horns. I do remind you that my wiring is total messed with, with over 80 years of modifications! It needs a total gut like you are working through.

Pierre

[ericmac]

I too am really enjoying this thread. While I do not own a Chrysler,  many of the tasks you are completing are so similar to the work I have to complete on my car that I am learning a great deal. Between the work on this car and what Matt is doing with his Lincoln I feel like I am back in another PhD program,  albeit one much more palatable than my "day job" doctorate! Please keep the information flowing. 

[Professor]

Thanks Bloo.  I bought some non-authentic but mostly hidden clamps like you recommended and installed them.  I cannot risk the fan pulling the harness into it.  I assumed that my wiring was hacked, but the general consensus from here and from online images is that the harness runs just like my original harness was routed.  Since my headlight wires were all original, I suspect that I have mine routed correctly and all that is missing is the original clamps.  I will try to verify what was original and replace the non-original clamps with original clamps if I can find them, but this will be a very low priority since I have so many more important projects to tackle on this car.

 

Joe

 

3 hours ago, Bloo said:

It won't help you for authenticity on a Chrysler, but My 36 Pontiac looks exactly like that. It has clips on those visible nuts that go forward, holding the harness down just forward of the bolts (toward the grille). My harness is smaller, but I suspect yours was too when it was made. The clips look about like these, especially the top one. No problem keeping it out of the fan.

 

 

 

 

[Professor]

Thanks Eric.  I wish I had through of this before I installed the headlight portion of the harness.  It isn’t very hard to remove the headlight harness from the radiator support, but it will probably take me an hour to do so.  If I have to pull the engine, I will consider modifying the harness.  I worry a bit about the IR drop across a connector, but I don’t think these headlamps draw much current so perhaps it will not matter much.

 

Joe

 

 

3 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

My wiring, (although completely non-stock) follows the same route.  My harness also contains the wires for the horn on the passenger side of the car.

 

It would be smart to put some type of connection where the wires go to the Rad. support.  This always has to be removed, when removing the engine from the car.

 

ERIC

 

[Professor]

11 February Update:

 

I have learned how the inline fuse works on the ammeter.

 

In the image below, you will see four wires on the upper left hand terminal, you will see four wires.  The black and white wire from the generator actually belongs on the lower left terminal which is currently empty. 

 

With the black wire on the lower left terminal, power from the generator runs internally through the ammeter from the lower left terminal to the upper right terminal, through the fuse holder (which is actually insulated on the sides) into the top of the fuse (which is actually installed in the image below), through the fuse, and into the metal bar that you see running from the upper right terminal to the upper left terminal and into the three wires (remember, the black and white wire is in the wrong location in the image below) on the upper left hand terminal.  The two wires on the lower right terminal are the battery supply and the cigarette lighter.

 

I thought that something should connect to the top of the fuse on the upper right hand terminal, but nothing connects there.  There is a special cap (installed in the image below) that passes current from the generator through the fuse and out to the three wires which drive the lights etc.

 

I hope that this helps somoene.  I will take a picture after I move the incorrectly installed black and white wire from the generator to the correct (lower left) terminal.

 

Joe

[Piaras]

Thanks for that post! It explains a lot on how that fuse works. I grabbed my spare cluster and looked at it closer and now I understand much better how that fuse works!

 

I took some additional photos see below to clarify what one sees.

Pierre

[Professor]

VERY nice Pierre.  This adds a great deal of value to my previous post.

 

Joe

[Piaras]

Joe

How is the clock powered, as I see that it is currently not wired, and from where?

Pierre

[Professor]

12 February Update:

 

Today I removed the original generator that was modified to work with a voltage regulator and installed an unmodified rebuilt generator.  The generator was polarized for negative ground so I had to re-polarize it for positive ground.  The installation went smoothly and the generator worked perfectly as soon as I started the Chrysler up.  I also received warranty replacement tires for the two defective tires from Coker Tire so I went ahead and had the new tires mounted and balanced.

 

The only thing not working perfectly is the left front headlight, but I have figured out why.  On two of the socket contacts, the contacts are frozen in the compressed position instead of moving freely up and down on their springs.  The one contact (the parking light) that is still spring loaded is working perfectly.  I am going to remove the left front headlight for the… ahem… 15th? Time and see if I can free the contact springs and contacts.

 

I have attached a few images from today’s work.  Oh… and I almost forgot, I figured out exactly how the wiring harness routes that runs to the headlights.  After I pulled the generator, I found a wire clamp underneath.  I will not be using it.  I think it is insane to route the harness so that it has to cross the path of the fan blade so I will keep it routed to the left of the generator instead of routing it underneath the generator like the factory did.  Hopefully no one will notice.  🙂. 

 

Joe

[Professor]

Hi Pierre,

 

It is wired now; I need to upload an image.  The clock receives power from the battery connection to the - input of the ammeter; the same terminal that receives direct power from the battery via a connection at the starter, and the same connection that has the cigarette lighter running to it.  I will upload an image tomorrow.

 

Joe

 

 

 

Edited February 12, 2022 by ... and Professor (see edit history)

[ol swede]

My lower harness clamp is actually mounted on one of the steering sector bolts. 

In half dozen more attempts you may become an expert in the headlight assembly  😉


Dale

[Professor]

13 February Update:

 

I started work on the Chrysler this morning to find that the battery was dead.  Since I replaced the generator yesterday, I suspected the culprit was the generator so I removed the wire from the generator and the ammeter stopped showing a draw (the batteries had a few volts left on them).  I removed the cover from the cutout relay and both of the contact on the relay seemed to be working fine… neither was stuck as far as I could tell.  After removing the cover, pushing down and pulling up on the contacts to make sure they were free and reinstalling the wire from the generator back on the ammeter… no more current draw.  The batteries were so low that my charger gave me an error (stupid electronic smart chargers) so I had to connect a 6V lead acid battery that I had removed to replace with the parallel optima batteries via jumpers to get the battery voltage high enough that my “smart” charger would charge.  The optima batteries are charging now.

 

While the batteries were charging, I removed the left headlight bucket and found that two of the three springs underneath the contacts in the socket were broken producing an intermittent connection.  I replaced the springs plugged the connector back in and now I have working high and low beams (even with a 5v battery voltage).

 

So… I am letting things charge tonight and we will see where we are in the morning.  With any luck, the batteries will be charged.  I will keep an eye on the ammeter to see if it shows a discharge after I shut the car down and turn off the ignition switch.  I have to believe that the normally open set of points on the generator cutout relay were stuck closed… if this is not the case, then I have no idea why my battery was showing a draw with the new generator connected.

 

More tomorrow!

 

Joe

[Professor]

Valentines Day Update:

 

Happy Valentine’s Day everyone.  This was the first day I drove the Chrysler to the University and left the University at night.  Everything worked flawlessly; lights were all functional including brake lights, parking lights, and high and low beams. Generator showed a charge of a minimum of 10A with heater and headlights on, and 20A first thing on startup in the morning.  The charge on the battery tender this morning when I took the tender off was 87% and the charge today when I arrive back home (at night) was  69%. I would say that although I never saw a discharge on the battery during use, that the generator cannot keep up with the heater fan on high and the headlights and interior lights on.  Regardless… I was pleased with today’s sorting out run.  I will keep checking charge levels until I am certain that the generator can charge the battery under normal use.  If I go on long road trips at night, I may need to travel with a battery tender, but I am hopeful that I can get the car sorted out sufficiently that I do not need  any additional battery charging on a long trip with a portion of the trip at night.  I realize that I may be asking more from this generator than it can supply.

 

Joe

[Piaras]

It seems that the generator is rated at under 20 amps. With the heater fan draw you are pushing it based upon what have seen. I suspect you will be charging at night when at home to bring the batteries up to full charge. Naturally once the weather warms you will have less issues with the charging system. I do wonder if the regulator points welded closed due to the high loading? Please don’t use a file to clean the points. 

Pierre

[Grimy]

I run a pair of Optimas in parallel in my 1930, 1934, and 1936 Pierce 8s.  I do so primarily for the reserve capacity (driving at night) than for the welcome improvement in starter spin speed.  The 1930 and 1934 have Delco 927 generators which produce 25A cold--but the temperature compensator cuts the output back to about 16-17A after 10-15 minutes of driving--and that's typical for 3-brush generators.  I don't have a heater in any of these cars, but if I did I'd consider it a choice between lights and heater.  That's why aftermarket lap robes were so popular!  I've also "upgraded" the taillights from a #63 bulb ( 3 cp) to #1129 (21 cp) which consume more generator output but are essential (IMHO) if you're going to drive one of these old boilers at night. 

 

(The 1936 has a 35A generator with a 2-stage cutout, and still has the temperature compensator, designed to save batteries by cutting back on the charge once (more or less) the starting draw had been replenished.)

[Bloo]

When you have a voltage regulator, and I believe you do now that you have the correct parts, voltage will be more telling than amps. When the charging system is keeping up, in other words the generator is capable of putting out more current (Amps) than the car is using at that particular moment, the voltage should be whatever the voltage regulator is set to. That number needs to come from the manual, but it might be about 7.5 volts at room temperature on most cars.

 

So the first issue is what happens when it doesn't keep up. The voltage of a fully charged 6 volt battery is about 6.3 volts. When the generator ceases to keep up with the demand for current (amps), the battery has to pick up the slack. As such, the voltage drops to 6.3 volts very quickly and goes down from there as the battery discharges. You can see a difference of 0.2 volts in lights pretty easily so the loss of 1.2 volts is an obvious dimming and it continues to get worse as the battery discharges.

 

The second issue is the current itself (amps). A DC generator would gladly charge several times its rating and go up in smoke given an opportunity to do so. On most 1930s generators this is prevented with a third brush. Third brush generators have a downfall, They only charge at the maximum setting at one particular RPM, and if the generator turns slower or faster than the ideal RPM, the maximum output is less. It ls like a bell curve. As you drive faster or slower, the available current falls off.

 

When there is no regulator, the third brush has to be set for fairly low output to keep from boiling the battery too much with the lights off, and then it can't keep up with the lights on. Such is life with a Model A Ford and many others.

 

When there is a regulator, like I believe you have, boiling the battery due to lack of regulation is not a problem, and the third brush is set to the maximum SAFE current for the generator. Be careful about the spec for this setting. Some generators have a higher TEST current than the normal set current.

 

OK, so the third brush is set for the maximum safe current, and the regulator regulates the voltage. Great. But, since it is a third brush generator you are still stuck with the bell curve for available current.

 

Using my 36 Pontiac as an example of this, I have a maximum of 15 amps, maybe 17 if the generator is stone cold. That is about 40(?) mph. If I drive faster or slower I get less. So if I need 10 amps, I can probably get that across a wide range of speeds. If I need 14, I probably can't hold the speed close enough to the peak even if I try. The Chrysler no doubt has a larger generator, but the principle is the same.

 

If the battery starts out full and you have more current (amps) available from the generator than the lights, accessories and ignition are drawing, the system will run at the set regulator voltage (~7.5v), the lights will stay bright, the battery will stay charged indefinitely as you drive.

 

If not, you will start out around 6.3 volts, with somewhat dimmer lights, and the battery will slowly go dead, as it has to carry the difference between what the generator can supply (in amps) and what the car is using (in amps). The more amp/hours you have available from your battery the longer you can run like this.

 

I doubt there are many 1936 cars that can carry a radio, heater, and lights all at the same time.

 

Edited February 15, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Professor]

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation @Bloo.  These details helped me finally understand how these older charging systems work.  I removed the added regulator so I am running entirely stock now, which explains why, with headlights and heater running, my generator cannot keep up with the power demands.  Understanding that current is a function of RPM explains a great deal to me.  I assumed when I looked at my ammeter, if under a certain load the current was X and I saw it drop to some lower value Y, that it meant my battery was charged and was requiring less current.  If I understand what you wrote above, the change in current draw is a function of RPM and my generator is likely putting out its maximum current and the maximum current is simply changing as a function of RPM.

 

I live in a rural area and run mostly at 60 mph.  I will figure out how to adjust my maximum current for higher RPMs which should help keep my battery charged.  I suppose now that I think about it, the problem is mostly moot since I put the car on a charger every night anyway.  I doubt I will be doing any long trips at night with the heater on so I doubt I will have any issues on trips lasting 5-6 hours, which will be VERY rare.

 

Putting dual optima batteries has made a huge difference for me in starting performance that I wish I had made that modification 18 months ago when I obtained my Chrysler…. They will also help compensate for the times when I have large power demands and low charging.

 

Joe 

[Professor]

Thanks for the suggestion on the taillight upgrade @Grimy, I will head off to Amazon to purchase some and install them.  In the rural area I live, the more I can be seen, the better.  One thing that helps visibility from the rear  is having the rear license plate act as a large reflector at night.  This said, these taillights are so small that they can use all the help they can get.  I laughed at the lap robe comment… I actually wondered why many four door cars of this era had them across the back of the front seat.  It makes sense now.  LOL.

 

Joe

 

8 hours ago, Grimy said:

I run a pair of Optimas in parallel in my 1930, 1934, and 1936 Pierce 8s.  I do so primarily for the reserve capacity (driving at night) than for the welcome improvement in starter spin speed.  The 1930 and 1934 have Delco 927 generators which produce 25A cold--but the temperature compensator cuts the output back to about 16-17A after 10-15 minutes of driving--and that's typical for 3-brush generators.  I don't have a heater in any of these cars, but if I did I'd consider it a choice between lights and heater.  That's why aftermarket lap robes were so popular!  I've also "upgraded" the taillights from a #63 bulb ( 3 cp) to #1129 (21 cp) which consume more generator output but are essential (IMHO) if you're going to drive one of these old boilers at night. 

 

(The 1936 has a 35A generator with a 2-stage cutout, and still has the temperature compensator, designed to save batteries by cutting back on the charge once (more or less) the starting draw had been replenished.)

 

[Bloo]

46 minutes ago, Professor said:

 I assumed when I looked at my ammeter, if under a certain load the current was X and I saw it drop to some lower value Y, that it meant my battery was charged and was requiring less current.

Probably. Batteries do that, at least if there is a voltage regulator, and I think that cutout box on your new generator does include one.

 

46 minutes ago, Professor said:

 If I understand what you wrote above, the change in current draw is a function of RPM

Not really. Current draw from lights, radio, heater, is relatively constant, it does go down a little when the system does not keep up, but that's not terribly important.

 

46 minutes ago, Professor said:

my generator is likely putting out its maximum current and the maximum current is simply changing as a function of RPM.

Yes exactly. That is exactly what third brush generators do when there is enough current draw to keep them at their maximum.

 

Your ammeter however should only be showing what current goes in or out of the battery, in amps. Amps represent flow. The primary current source is the generator, and the lights and stuff should be siphoning off current before it gets to the ammeter.

 

So assuming it is voltage regulated (and I think it is, by a second relay in that cutoff box), the accessories, ignition, lights, etc. get to take whatever they want first. Any available current that is left over goes to the battery, if it wants it, and registers as charge. If the battery is kind of low, it will take everything it can get. If the battery is pretty much full, it wont take very much current, and will register less charge.

 

If it is charging pretty high and you turn an accessory on, you will see less charge because the accessory takes it's bite first, and there is less available current left to flow through the ammeter to the battery.

 

In the case where generator does not keep up, the generator will do all it can, and all it can is speed dependent because it is a third brush generator. The battery will supply the rest. Whatever current (amps) the battery provides will flow backwards through the ammeter and register as discharge.

 

Edited February 15, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[VW4X4]

Joe,

   It sounds like you are really driving your car more than most.  Do you have what I call "tail light protectors"??

These are panels that are located between the rear, of the rear fenders and the bumper.  With the 4 DR cars the design had a funny angle that caused rocks that flew off the rear tires to bounce off the rear bumper and smash the rear tail light lenses.  So, the factory came up with a panel to fill this area.  I'm wondering if these are needed for the coupes?   After seeing these tail light lens prices on Epay, I don't want to see these lens broken.   I have a set of these for my 4 dr. car but have not seen them for the coupes..

 

 

ERIC 

[Professor]

Hi Eric,

 

I don’t have anything like what you describe, nor, with the factory fender skirts I have, do I see how it would even be possible for a rock to be kicked up and damage a tail light.  I don’t have them, but if you have an image of what they look like, I would be interested in seeing them.

 

Joe

 

9 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

Joe,

   It sounds like you are really driving your car more than most.  Do you have what I call "tail light protectors"??

These are panels that are located between the rear, of the rear fenders and the bumper.  With the 4 DR cars the design had a funny angle that caused rocks that flew off the rear tires to bounce off the rear bumper and smash the rear tail light lenses.  So, the factory came up with a panel to fill this area.  I'm wondering if these are needed for the coupes?   After seeing these tail light lens prices on Epay, I don't want to see these lens broken.   I have a set of these for my 4 dr. car but have not seen them for the coupes..

 

 

ERIC 

 

[Professor]

15 February Update

 

Drove to work with the heater running and home with no heater and no headlights.  Battery charge this morning when I unplugged the battery charger was 100% and when I got home and plugged the battery charger, the charge was at 99%.

 

Not much charge loss today.

 

Joe

[maok]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

15 February Update

 

Drove to work with the heater running and home with no heater and no headlights.  Battery charge this morning when I unplugged the battery charger was 100% and when I got home and plugged the battery charger, the charge was at 99%.

 

Not much charge loss today.

 

Joe

Maybe a simple solution for night driving is to replace all the globes with LEDs

[36 D2 Coupe]

23 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

Joe,

   It sounds like you are really driving your car more than most.  Do you have what I call "tail light protectors"??

These are panels that are located between the rear, of the rear fenders and the bumper.  With the 4 DR cars the design had a funny angle that caused rocks that flew off the rear tires to bounce off the rear bumper and smash the rear tail light lenses.  So, the factory came up with a panel to fill this area.  I'm wondering if these are needed for the coupes?   After seeing these tail light lens prices on Epay, I don't want to see these lens broken.   I have a set of these for my 4 dr. car but have not seen them for the coupes..

 

 

ERIC 

I'm not familiar with the Airstream rear configuration regarding the stone baffles but they are certainly there on the '36 and '37 Chrysler Airflows. I was unable to find a part number for such a baffle for the C7 & C8 in my'36 Parts List. But that doesn't rule out the possibility - has anyone seen them on an Airstream?

[VW4X4]

21 minutes ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

I'm not familiar with the Airstream rear configuration regarding the stone baffles but they are certainly there on the '36 and '37 Chrysler Airflows. I was unable to find a part number for such a baffle for the C7 & C8 in my'36 Parts List. But that doesn't rule out the possibility - has anyone seen them on an Airstream?

 So, what we know at this stage is, this is not a problem just for the Chrysler C7 4 DR.    IT must have been a  problem thru out the industry....  Here's a photo of the panels off of my C7 4DR sedan. 

 

ERIC

[Piaras]

My coupe doesn’t have those panels. The previous owners lived in the country, how much they drove in poor condition roads I don’t know. They never mentioned this problem, but I can see how a stone hits the inside of the bumper and bounces forward.

Pierre

[Professor]

Eric,

 

Do you have a picture of these mounted?  For the life of me, I cannot picture where these fit on the vehicle.

 

Joe

[VW4X4]

18 minutes ago, Professor said:

Eric,

 

Do you have a picture of these mounted?  For the life of me, I cannot picture where these fit on the vehicle.

 

Joe

Sorry Joe,   I do not have any pictures of these mounted.   Let me try to explain.  These panels lay flat, and fill the gap, between the bumper and the rear fender.   The more I think about it, your rear bumper is extended because of the trunk or spare tire mount.   Therefore the gap may be a lot bigger.  IF this is true, stones may not ricochet off the rear bumper as bad, and may not be a problem, like a conventional bumper setup.

 

ERIC

Edited February 17, 2022 by VW4X4 (see edit history)

[Professor]

Thanks Eric.  Now I understand.  My rear bumper and mounts are designed for a trunk platform (there are trunk mount holes in the bumper mount) and the curve in my bumper indeed places it further away from the rear taillights. Additionally, the bumper is curved more which would tend to project rocks towards the center of the bumper and not towards the lights as a less curved bumper might.

 

Joe

[BobinVirginia]

I’m always impressed with the knowledge shared on this forum. The generator and charging system tech shared in this thread is a great example of that. Thanks 

[Professor]

20 January Update:

 

Yesterday my wife and I took our first long night drive in the Chrysler.  We drove about an hour to a restaurant in a nearby town and an hour back.  The drive could not have been better.  All of the lights worked and even on a very dark road, we could see fine.  I need to adjust the lights now that everything is dialed in.

 

On Wednesday of last week, I had my right front headlight (both high and low beam) stop working.  Naturally, I assumed the problem was in the connector so yesterday I took off the right front headlight and resoldered two of the three contacts on the wire harness side that connect to the terminals that go to the headlight.  I was thinking that the remaining two crimped contacts (from the factory) might be an issue.  Put everything back together and… what?  The headlight was still not working.  I went over to the headlight and looked inside the lens and sure enough, the headlight bulb was black.  I changed the headlight bulb and everything worked perfectly.

 

The headlight bulbs I purchased are NOS Mazda headlight bulbs just like the bulbs that came from the factory.  I am a bit concerned that I blew a headlight bulb after only, maybe, three hours of on time.  I will let you know if this ends up being a problem.

 

I also changed the oil yesterday and it was black BLACK (I estimate I had about 2,000 or so miles on this oil).  I am certain that the detergent oil is still cleaning the engine from all the years of use with non-detergent oil.  Remember that I pulled the oil pan and cleaned all of the garbage out of it and the engine looked very clean (you can go back and look at the crank, rods, and cam in earlier pictures I posted in this thread).  I will keep changing the oil frequently.  I am on my last factory oil filter so I will need to source some more at some point.

 

Today I will drain and fill the overdrive transmission.  I changed the fluid when I first obtained the car, and I want to see what it looks like after 7,500 miles or so of driving.

 

I hope everyone enjoys their Sunday as much as I will enjoy mine!

 

Joe

[VW4X4]

Morning Joe,

      If I  recall correctly there are two fill holes in the overdrive transmission that need to be checked.  I may be wrong but would hate to see you over looks this.  I am sure some over driver trans. are like this and often are neglected.   On the flip side, I don't think this needs much attention unless you see evidence of a leak.

 

  I am currently working on a ton of detail on my car, and enjoying every minute of it.

 

ERIC

[Professor]

Thanks Eric.  I drained and filled one hole, it took about 3 quarts of non-synthetic gear oil.  I did not see a second fill and drain hole, but I will look next time I am under there.  I am looking at the maintenance manual now to see what I forgot.

 

I love working on the little details too.  I figure I have the rest of my life to make this car as perfect as I can get it.  Before paint, I need to get the Chrysler completely sorted… still a ways to go, but at least I have reliable transportation.  I think back to when I first drove it and I was worried whether or not I could make it from my house to my barn.  I drove a little over 100 miles yesterday in a single trip and the car just hummed along without even the thought of an issue.

 

Lovely.

[Piaras]

Having a reliable vehicle is the end all for us vintage owners. As item by item, things get better and soon it is just another vehicle in your driveway. I know that when we drove the 600 plus kilometers to Ottawa, it was our first long haul with our fingers crossed! Other than the rain and the poor weatherstrips it went well.

Enjoy a real beauty!

Pierre

[Professor]

All,

 

For those of you who decide to use 6V optima batteries to get rid of the acid and related damage, here is a neat cover for a single 6V optima battery that makes it look like a period correct(ish) battery:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363738045086?hash=item54b07a1a9e:g:tRwAAOSwqu9UzxkP

 

If I were not using dual optima batteries, one of these would be on its way to me now.

 

Joe

[Professor]

I am uncertain what kind of fuel economy (for lack of a better word, but economy probably doesn’t really apply here) the rest of you get with six or eight cylinder chrysler engines from around 1936… but today I measured 11.2 mpg and I have seen as bad as 9 mpg.  I think my Chrysler is trying to single handedly trying to drain the US strategic fuel reserves.  🙂. 

[Piaras]

I suspect that you are on the low end. I would expect 13-15. My dad had a 1964 Parisienne 4 body with the L6. In ‘67, the top end and carb was rebuilt, and the very poor mpg went from 8 to nearer 20. That is all I got!

Pierre