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Fresh air vents @ kick panels


RockinRiviDad

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I like to use my vents regularly. But I’ve noticed that the insulation inside of that cavity (behind the vent door) has fallen off. It now gets trapped by the vent door not allowing me to completely close vents. 

 

I took vent doors off, pulled the insulation out & inspected the cavity. Minor surface rust, minor accumulation of dirt in there. I shop vac’d the dirt out. I plan to clean & spray some Rustoleum on the surface rust areas.

 

Questions: What have u guys used to replace the fiberglass insulation? I don’t wanna use fiberglass. One buddy told me to stick sound deadener in there. But I’m thinking a closed cell foam mat like Product over the sound deadener too?

 

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David. you're teaching us or at least me. I've noticed that insulation and is not an issue with me. But again, being garage bound, no air flowing through it yet. Thanks to you, I now know what the shape of that insulation is.

I'd use POR15 and then some Dynamat type product.You going to scrape off all that old sealant and use an automotive seam and joint sealer? I used the product in the image, just like original.

 

The insulation I wish I dealt with when my dashboard was bare was the inside of the firewall. It's old and decrepit shedding with the slightest disturbance. I know I've inhaled those fibers when my head was under there. Had me thinking if there's any asbestos in the insulation.

For my new carpeted kick panels, I found 8-32 Tee Nuts (brad type) excellent replacement for those rivets that were on the old kick panels.

 

John B

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5 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said:

I like to use my vents regularly. But I’ve noticed that the insulation inside of that cavity (behind the vent door) has fallen off. It now gets trapped by the vent door not allowing me to completely close vents. 

 

I took vent doors off, pulled the insulation out & inspected the cavity. Minor surface rust, minor accumulation of dirt in there. I shop vac’d the dirt out. I plan to clean & spray some Rustoleum on the surface rust areas.

 

Questions: What have u guys used to replace the fiberglass insulation? I don’t wanna use fiberglass. One buddy told me to stick sound deadener in there. But I’m thinking a closed cell foam mat like Product over the sound deadener too?

 

3611E2DB-5964-4A52-A72E-2023B1D8D692.thumb.jpeg.0dbfee8070860f21cb0ecdb28b49d4d9.jpeg
 

A95011A6-BCE6-41F0-AC89-10117FA65D86.thumb.jpeg.f7fa02968fb93c7e243f11831d47c987.jpeg

 

  Very unusual for the old insulation to come out in one piece...you should make a template and do a repro project...or send the template to someone who might consider doing it.

Tom

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I’m glad I could help others learn while I’m over here MF’ing this damn car each time I take on a project 🤣

 

Yes. I will scrape off old seam sealer. I will use strip caulking I bought. I’m sure the stuff u have will work great too

 

I didn’t even think about asbestos 😳. Good call. I’m definitely trashing it now 

 

post a pic of your cool T bolts. I noticed that the screw kit some of us bought from Mr G’s has 3 Phillips head screws per kick panel vent. left me scratching my head 

 

 

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54 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

 you should make a template and do a repro project...or send the template to someone who might consider doing it.

Tom


I would be more than happy to make a template & send it to someone who wants to repro them. I don’t have the ability to do that. Lemme know if someone is interested. 
 

I haven’t pulled driver side one yet. I wonder if it’s the same shape. Stay tuned 

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“I noticed that the screw kit some of us bought from Mr G’s has 3 Phillips head screws per kick panel vent. left me scratching my head “

 

Those 3screws are for the attachment of the grille to the panel👍

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2 hours ago, 71GS said:

Those 3screws are for the attachment of the grille to the panel👍


Yes. Thank u. U are correct. I wasn’t  very clear. My vents are not held on with screws. My vents are held on to the panel with 2 smooth head rivets (for lack of a better term) & one screw. The one screw goes thru the grill & holds the panel to the vent 

 

Someday I will replace my worn out kick panels & drill out the rivets to remove them from the old panel. But once I do that what do the 2 new screws screw in to that replace the rivets?? There are no clips like there is on the bottom one. U can see the clip on the vent housing in the pic I posted.

 

I would like to see the T nuts that XFrame found as replacements for the rivets 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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I found steel tubular rivets at my local hardware store. The head looks the same. They were 2 piece and the backside screwed into the tube rivet so you did not need a special tool to fasten. I think the ones I found were a tad too long so I had to cut them a little shorter. Look good, no one would know they were not original. They are nice because if you have to, you can remove them without ruining anything. If you want I can take a picture of mine.

 

Bill

 

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I had 10-32 SS Tee nuts in my odds 'n sods drawer but couldn't find pan-head 10-32 screws at Lowes. You kidding me! Everything was 10-20 coarse screws. So, I had to buy more Tee Nuts in 10-20.

I buy SS or plain, whatever gets me outta Lowes and back on my project fast. In Canada we have the Robertson (square) screws shoved down out throats. Solution, buy SS to get the Phillips head screws.

These Tee nuts (at Lowes) usually come with barbs for cabinetry. But. the brad type do not. Perfect for kick panels as there's 1/4" between the grill and kick panel which goes up against the vent flange directly. No room for a hex-nut.

Notice duct tape for the transition between that flimsy board to steel.

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Where is that “most frustrating project” thread that someone promised. Taking the driver side fresh air vent out has to be one of the worst 😩. At least it is with a complete car. I shoulda did this when my car was apart. If only someone here would’ve warned me. I might’ve been ok with simply opening the window for fresh air 🤦🏻‍♂️
 

I had to take the E brake mechanism out & the main electrical harness running thru that area didn’t help with getting the vent out. This F’ing car keeps fighting the beautification process haha. She must be a ‘hood rat. What do they say? U can take the car out of the ghetto, but u can’t take the ghetto out of the car?? 🤣

 

Tom said “it’s unusual for the insulation to come out in one piece”. So that makes this PITA car very rare, right? Just kidding 😆

 

As u can see the insulation has two different shapes. I can’t imagine anyone wanting a template of these. They are hidden & NO ONE can see them. 
 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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Screw posts.  Here's a pack of 10 from WalMart (online) for $3.50.  You could also go to your local Office Max/Depot and buy some binder posts 

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chicago-Screw-Posts-3-8-Heavy-Duty-Nickel-Plated-Leathercraft-Hardware-Fastener-10-Pack/971498127?selected=true

 

To replace that funky insualtion, find some underhood insulation / sound deadener - like the three pieces under your hood.  It easy to shape and it's not loose like the stuff you pulled out. You'll need to buy a sheet and cut your own.  I'm not suggesting that you purchase this particular brand from this company, but you'll get the idea.

 

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/universal-1-2-black-matt-faced-hood-insulation-48-x-48/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI146-ssqJ6QIVjZ-fCh2GmAO4EAQYASABEgKhjvD_BwE

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38 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Screw posts.  Here's a pack of 10 from WalMart (online) for $3.50.  You could also go to your local Office Max/Depot and buy some binder posts 

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chicago-Screw-Posts-3-8-Heavy-Duty-Nickel-Plated-Leathercraft-Hardware-Fastener-10-Pack/971498127?selected=true

 

 

The screw posts Ed found are the same exact posts I was talking about earlier in the thread that I found at my local hardware store. I could buy 1 or 100 as needed. Good to know there is a source if you don't have a hardware store near you. They work great.

 

Bill

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  • 3 years later...

How do you remove the vents? I'm working on my 65 rivi and can't seem to get the vent out. I removed all of the screws, its loose and moves around, just won't come out and I don't want to break it trying.

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On 4/25/2020 at 6:38 PM, 1965rivgs said:

  Very unusual for the old insulation to come out in one piece...you should make a template and do a repro project...or send the template to someone who might consider doing it.

Tom

I think I may have found the template for this project, We just get rid of the white and red in Texas.

download.jpg

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Have you checked that the cabel is disconnected from the vent door? Vent door is mechanically cable actuated, and the cable has a loop at the end that slides onto a pin. It need sto be removed before the vent is removed 

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