Riv Eng

Also considering this for my 64 restoration currently underway. What system did you go with? I've been eyeing the Holley Sniper or Super Sniper for my 2x4 425.

"except chevy in 1967" I may have mis-read this, but I'll still take it to mean that Chevy's TH400 and the 1964 BOP ST400 are essentially the same. Thnx 👍 EDIT: I did mis-read it. I understand what you are saying now. I think 1967 was you referring to the bolt pattern. The comma threw me off. This is cmuch more clear now, thanks.

Thanks Ed, I just saw that you edited your original post: This reinforces my point above. 1- The only change between 1964 and 1965/66/67 was the change from fixed pitch to variable pitch for BOP. The rest of the trans is the same (minus 4 items mentioned above by Seafoam) 2- Chevy, however, did not transition to the variable pitch converter for those years (except for '67) but rather kept the fixed pitch. Therefore a 1965/66 (not 67) Chevy TH400 *should* be the same as my 1964 ST400 (i.e: Both fixed pitch, and otherwise equal in all respects)

Was the GM variety (TH)400 a non-switch pitch post 1964? Only Buick's (Olds & Pontiac too?) ST was switch pitch? So if those four items mentioned above (which are exclusive to the switch pitch) are the only differences between the ST and the TH, then presumably GM's TH400 from 1965 (and on) should fit my 1964 ST 400 (non-switch pitch)?

Thanks Ed. So a TH400 rebuild kit will work for our ST400. That answers one of my questions 👌

Tickmaster shows what it's like to order american parts from anywhere outside of the US.

Hi All, Digging this up again from the archives, since I can't find a reliable answer. I'm digging into my '64 ST400 Trans and looking to do a complete gasket replacement - it was puking fluids out of pretty much every seal and orifice. I might dig in and do more if I'm feeling adventurous. A few items I've noted from my research so far: 1. 1964 was a 1-year only ST/TH 400 Transmission before the Switch-pitch took over in 1965. Before 1964 it was the Dynaglide (edit: Dynaflow) 2-speed. 2. The ST400 was Buick only and the TH400 was for the rest of GM. Basically, I can't find a single rebuild kit or gasket kit for 1964 ST400 - everything I find is for 1965 or later and for TH400. The major questions I have are the following for those that are familiar with these Trans: - I presume the TH and the ST are virtually the same. Buick just wanted to be special and name it something different? I can order a gasket kit for a TH and it should fit? - Will the 1965 and later gasket kits fit the 1964? (with a few alterations or exceptions?) I know I can order a 64 specific from CARS, but being from Canada I'll have to pay shipping fees, duty fees, border fees, more shipping fees, more duty fees, more border fees, fee-just-for-the-heck-of-it fees, what-are-you-going-do-about-it-fees, and screw-you-for-not-being-in-America-fees. basically, a $100 USD (usually with free shipping) turns into $450-$550 CAD real quick. Ask me how I know. Basically, can I go to my local jobber and throw down a couple a greenbacks and walk away with a 65 and up TH400 rebuild kit and get +/-95% of what I need??

Sure Dundee, what template do you need? template of the cut-out in the dash? Also, if you need any specific photos let me know - this is the current stash I have on my phone of photos taken during the restoration so far. I expect to take over 10K photos by the time I'm done!

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/1964-buick-riviera.7251/page-8 Nope, not since Nov. But his attention to detail is both terrifying and inspiring. I don't know any other restorer (myself included) that would think to replace seat springs.

Yeah, its the ashtrays I'm stuck on. Cigarette lights are easy to convert, but I'm left scratching my head in regards to the ashtrays.

I'll check out the Dakota Digital, thanks for the suggestion!

I saw this guy when it was posted too, and I've been following him ever since. He's doing an amazing job! I don't pretend to be doing as good as a job as him, but I learn from what he's doing. The main difference I'll be doing is keeping the interior accessories in black leather, but I decided to go tan leather for the seats for a two-tone interior effect. Its not cheap though! For anybody interested, I sourced the leather from a local (to me) store in Toronto, and went with Carrera Leather (https://www.ctlleather.com/product-category/leather/carrera/). I decided to go with 2 hides of Ebony (black) and 4 hides of Tuscan Brown for the seats. If I have any left over, I'll probably sew a headliner too. at around $900/hide, it was not inexpensive, especially considering the same cost can get you all brand new upholstery from Clarks. I made paper templates of all my pieces to make sure they all fit before I started cutting. I ended up using about 1.5 hides, so that gives me a buffer for mistakes!

Good idea - I have the knobs for the cigarette lighters still. I noticed they have threaded studs, so I could just thread it into the plastic housing for the cap. Looks like I'll be going to PA this weekend to spend $3, and I'll likely walk out having spent $300!

I'm currently working on the wiring harness for the center console, and trying to decide what to do with the cigarette lighters and ashtrays. The rear cigarette lighter I'll likely turn into a USB A/USB C charger, like below. I just haven't found one I like yet. For the front Cigarette lighter, I'll probably go with a mini digital Volt meter. They are fairly cheap and easy to install, and I want to have something better than an idiot light, without actually getting rid of the idiot light. Finally, for the front ashtray, i think I'm going to try to squeeze two gauges in side-by-side. I measured the space, and I'll probably have to widen it, but i should be able to squeeze in a 2" temp and a 2" oil pressure gauge. I like the look of these from Faria Beede - I know they are for boaters, but they look good. As for the rear ashtray - no clue. I'll probably leave as it, since its virtually useless to anybody in the front seats. I may turn it into a plug in for a radio, but i'll probably go bluetooth anyways, so I'm not sure. Any ideas??

Before Vs After

After this, I finished my mahogany veneers in a Flat 2K clear coat and glued them to the center console pieces. I had the veneers laser cut onto some scraps based off a CAD file that I drew myself, and they fit pretty much perfectly. So off I went to my local hardwood store supplier and bought some 3/32" quarter sawn Mahogany. A couple of coats of a super hard Osmo Polyx hardwax oil, and a few coats of Flat Satin clear over top will make sure these veneers won't be scratched or damaged from regular use. I used a heavy-duty contact cement and used a sheet of wax paper as an interface to help me place the veneer where I wanted before it sticks. Went very smoothly, and i like the flat look of the interior - the flat leather works very well with the flat veneer, rather than having high-gloss everywhere.

The other project that I have been working on, and currently wrapping up is the center console. I decided to wrap this in leather as well, but first I had to replace the broken tabs at the top (i think pretty much all 1st gen Rivs broke here?) Anyways, I reinforced it with sheet metal and epoxy, so fingers crossed it doesn't get in the way when it comes to installation. After that, I sanded the whole console down and started to glue on the leather. It went fairly ok, but it was a technically difficult piece - particularly around the drivers side where there is a light mount and a heater duct in close proximity. All in all, I'm very happy with the result, and I think it will help create a softer interior that breaks up the hard plastic.

after that, it was rolling it out into the sunshine to really get a good look!

After that was front end. I had gotten all new front end rubber and spent a few hours pressing everything in with my press. This included all the upper and lower bushings and ball joints, and the front end went together very smoothly.

During this time, I was also working on making my Chassis a roller. First up: Rear Diff. New bearings, new studs, and a full descale and painting the inside of the axle flange. After that, full rear brake assembly and start putting it all together! The third membrane went in just fine, axles slid into place and we are one step closer to getting a roller.

Before & After. The astute among you may notice I changed the light of my high beam indicator. I never liked the red, and blue is much more fitting for modern driving. It was as easy as popping off the lens from the back, and using a hole punch to cut a new lens out of a blue notebook cover. Works perfect!

After that, lots of wiring, new Deutsch connectors and OEM blade connectors, new harness tape and hooking up all the dash instruments. Before i packed it away, I made sure lots of testing of all the components with my DC power supply was done. All the lights works, so i was very happy with the outcome.

after this, I removed the buck and installed the black trim and the lock cylinder and key