Hearse Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 New modulator and line is in, sprayed some Marvell's down the carb as she idled like someone else mentioned in here, put some 92 octane in and my god...She runs better than she did when I picked her up..Smooth firm shifts and idles like a kitty cat.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 1 hour ago, Hearse said: Tom you are the man!!! Ok so I disconnected the vacuum line to the transmission, she starts up and idles pretty well now, I drove her around the block in low and it pulls hard now no more miss it seems no more crazy idle . I'm stoked!!! so a bad vacuum modulator in the transmission? I owe you a steak and a beer let me know where and I'll pick up the tab. Thank you to everyone else who chimed in, I'm going to take your advice and order the new timing chain set and after looking it looks like I'll need a water crossover thermostat part up front the previous owner has a bolt broken off on the T stat. Do you have any particular manufacturer you stick with when it comes to a vac mod? or will any one off the shelf suffice. I get lucky sometimes...glad your issue is solved. It has been awhile since I replaced a modulator but I`m sure the aftermarket replacement will differ greatly in its appearance compared to your original, if it is original. It`s a pretty simple component, I would expect any number of suppliers will suffice. Good luck! Tom Mooney 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 I used a Pioneer brand from Orielly's as they had it in stock and Napa was closed, works perfectly, no adjustment required thus far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 NOW, check the trans. fluid level, hot idle in park. Normally when a modulator goes bad it sucks out trans. fluid. Tom T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 Will do sir, Tomorrow though as I just had a shower and I'm overdue for supper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 I guess the next thing to tackle is the rear U joint noise, when you put her in reverse sometimes she makes that "tink" sound . I have a really good drive shaft shop around the corner I was thinking just take the whole assembly in and let them put in all new joints and a cv joint? there is a cv joint in the driveline set up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 ONLY replace what's nec. Why spend 1K + or - & have the possibility of them messing it up??? DO NOT LET THEM TELL YOU THAT IT'S " OUT OF PHASE" That's the way Buick made them. Usually the front joint goes bad 1st. easy enough to replace. IF you want to do it correctly use a solid joint as the factory did as they are stronger, your choice. IF it needs a center bearing & support easy enough to do yourself as it does sound like you have some mechanical knowledge. Tom T. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 Is that how much it cost to replace some joints in a Riviera driveline? yikes. I took out my driveline from my hearse and brought it to them , two piece with a carrier support bearing, and it was about 175 for them to replace all the joints . Center support was still good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 Don't forget the '64 & 65 & I also believe '66 has the same set-up being also two CV joints. So that's 5 u-joints, two CV joints & a center support & bearing. Some try to OVER SELL & tell you ALL needs replacing when in fact they are just padding the bill. How would you know as it's ALL back together & in one piece. Don't be added to the list of horror stories about these shafts. Nothing secret or magical about them. Just paying attention to details & marking EVERYTHING BEFORE, or while taking things apart. Someone inexperienced could take 10-15 hrs. which equals $$$ if giving it to someone else. Tom T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 If you're taking the shaft to someone else, it might be advisable to mark it yourself first. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 Well, I was going to take it to Adams Driveshaft in Vegas. I'm going to jack up the rear end tonight and have a look around at the rear end shocks and bushing something seems loose back there along with that driveline tink I'm hearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 Track bar bushings are notorious for disintegrating. Fortunately, that's a cheap and easy (and beneficial) fix. If the control arm bushings are bad (and they may well be after 50+ years), break out your wallet and bone up on your profanity. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 As stated above, break out your wallet or search this forum to get a Cadillac part number and see how to make a spacer and do it yourself for much less. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 FYI, the parts number for the rear control arm bushing is 65-76 Cadillac ACDelco 45G11006 (apparently no longer available at RockAuto). You'll still need to make a spacer for each bushing. At last look, the only new drop in bushings available were from Rare Parts, to the tune of ~$85 each. Those bushings are nothing more than the same shorter bushing with the spacer pre-attached. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 5, 2019 Author Share Posted July 5, 2019 Lol..great. I can't just go to Orielly's and get one off the shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted July 5, 2019 Share Posted July 5, 2019 24 minutes ago, Hearse said: Lol..great. I can't just go to Orielly's and get one off the shelf. Sure you can. If you have a Mustang, Camaro, or a Chevelle. 😎 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted July 5, 2019 Share Posted July 5, 2019 As stated NO LONGER AVAILABLE. Track bar bushings I have in stock along with fast ratio steering boxes at 2.5 turns lock-lock. I have researched ALL these things over the yrs. & installed them on MANY of my customers cars. Along with MANY other parts you may need front & rear. Tom T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 5, 2019 Author Share Posted July 5, 2019 Very good TelRiv thank you sir! the steering box is just fine for me it has zero play in the steering. I'm going to jack her up tomorrow afternoon and have a look under there. How much are your track bar bushings if that is in fact what is wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riviera63 Posted July 5, 2019 Share Posted July 5, 2019 8 hours ago, Hearse said: Very good TelRiv thank you sir! the steering box is just fine for me it has zero play in the steering. I'm going to jack her up tomorrow afternoon and have a look under there. How much are your track bar bushings if that is in fact what is wrong? Regardless of what else is going on do the track bar bushings. They make a huge difference in handling. Other than good radials this was the one single thing that made the greatest impact on driving my car. I found this out on my first long drive with my Riviera driving out to the ROA meet in Colorado. Changed them in the garage of the guy we were staying with. This was 2014 and we got them at a local NAPA store. Bill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted July 5, 2019 Share Posted July 5, 2019 Track bar bushings are cheap ($15-20). FYI, this is what one of my original bushings looked like after 50 years: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 6, 2019 Author Share Posted July 6, 2019 What do you guys think of the track arm bushing kit by Centerville Auto? I just googled it and they popped up on Ebay, about 44 bucks for the track arm bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 6, 2019 Author Share Posted July 6, 2019 Buick Track bar bushing kit 1963 1964 1965 1966 67 68 70 Riviera & Gran Sport Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted July 6, 2019 Share Posted July 6, 2019 You could also take a look at Energy Suspension 37111G ($16.39 at RockAuto). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted July 6, 2019 Share Posted July 6, 2019 I think that one ROA member has drilled and reshaped hockey pucks for body mounts, why not do the same for other bushings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearse Posted July 6, 2019 Author Share Posted July 6, 2019 What exactly does that mean Riv Nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGerman Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 (edited) Hello 1st. Gen Riviera owners with Pertronix conversion, I would like to follow up on this old Thread, because I have an issue with my Pertronix 1181 System. I did some electric work on my headlights (added a relay for high and low beam) but suddenly my 1963 Riviera does not fire up anymore. In the Moment I assume I killed the ignitor Module by having ingnition on to long without engine running. Digging through the installation instruction, I read the balast resistor is not needed if a 1.5 Ohm coil is installed. I‘m measuring 5.8 volts on the positive wire at the coil. So there must be a resistor installed somewhere, but I can not find it in the engine compartment. Does anybody know, wehre Buick hides the resistor? I want to bypass the resistor when installing a new Pertronix Module, but need to know where it is located. thank you for your help. Frank Edited August 17, 2019 by OldGerman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, OldGerman said: Hello 1st. Gen Riviera owners with Pertronix conversion, I would like to follow up on this old Thread, because I have an issue with my Pertronix 1181 System. I did some electric work on my headlights (added a relay for high and low beam) but suddenly my 1963 Riviera does not fire up anymore. In the Moment I assume I killed the ignitor Module by having ingnition on to long without engine running. Digging through the installation instruction, I read the balast resistor is not needed if a 1.5 Ohm coil is installed. I‘m measuring 5.8 volts on the positive wire at the coil. So there must be a resistor installed somewhere, but I can not find it in the engine compartment. Does anybody know, wehre Buick hides the resistor? I want to bypass the resistor when installing a new Pertronix Module, but need to know where it is located. thank you for your help. Frank Hi Frank, The resistance is built into the wiring in the form of a "resistance wire". It is the cloth wrapped wire at the coil. You will need to create a key switched full system voltage source. Do a search on the forum and possibly in this thread, there are several methods that have been discussed thoroughly. BTW, 5.8 volts seems lower than I would expect. Check your system voltage (low battery?) or do a voltage drop across your ignition switch. Tom Mooney Edited August 17, 2019 by 1965rivgs (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 Yeah, that's one of the things about the Pertronix if the key is left on it usually fries the module. The one wire unit I sell automatically turns itself off after a period of time so this doesn't happen. ALSO, in the crank position the coil should have 12 volts going to it through the starter solenoid. In this case IF voltage was too low it would get more voltage from the yellow wire off the starter. Check your battery voltage 1st. before going any further. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGerman Posted August 18, 2019 Share Posted August 18, 2019 Thank you for your comments. I will bypass the resistance-wire from the key switch to the coil. thank you, Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGerman Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 (edited) On 8/18/2019 at 3:13 PM, OldGerman said: Thank you for your comments. I will bypass the resistance-wire from the key switch to the coil. thank you, Frank I did a Full conversion from Pertronix I to III with a new coil, Spark wires and a power Relais and the old madam fired up right at the first key turn. Needed the installation of a diode at the voltage regulator because the engine keeps on running with ignition key turned off. After a small adjustment of the ignition timing, engine has a smooth idle. I think I Need to check my vacuum advance as there is always a stumble/hesitation when accelarating. But that could have several other reasons (carb power valve?). I had the carb off and redone 3 years ago, but suddenly it Starts to leak at the base plate..... LOL Edited September 1, 2019 by OldGerman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 By the pic provided you obviously have a '63 with a Rochester 4GC carb.. They are known for doing what you describe. Those carbs. are so finicky they are a PIA. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, telriv said: By the pic provided you obviously have a '63 with a Rochester 4GC carb. I had a '56 Olds with a 4GC and a bad stumble off idle. That was back in the 1990's and Tom Toal the Rochester carburetor man was still around. We spent about 5 hours one day trying to get it right. It got to the point where he accused me of being a ringer that someone sent to play a joke on him. On the bench we had a good squirt from the accelerator pump. On the car running it just dribbled on acceleration. We did everything and couldn't get a good shot of fuel on the running engine. On the bench it was always fine. I have a lot of windshield time in my work so I get to ponder the depths of the universe. The car is long gone, but if I had it back I have an idea. If there was some porosity in the carburetor body between the accelerator well and an adjacent vacuum passage the fuel in the well might not maintain the level due to being drawn into the vacuum passage. That would only happen while running and could cause a lean condition. If I had an untenable problem like that today I would coat the accelerator well with a light coat of fuel resistant sealer just to be sure it was fuel tight. That may have been my problem back then and, maybe one that occurs without being diagnosed in other instances. My '60 Electra has a 4GC that started hesitating a couple of years ago. That time it got progressively worse and turned out to be a bad condenser on the points. I would have tried the well sealer if it had continued. Even if that had been a temporary fix I would have identified the problem. When my condenser problem started I figured I was paying the penalty for 9 years or poring corn licker in the tank. I was imagining a mass of biological jelly. But when the air horn came off the 4GC everything was fine. Untouched for 9 years: Edited September 1, 2019 by 60FlatTop (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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