gregchrysler Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 Hello again I finally got reverse going and trying to put tranny back - but as I push the tranny in I get stock a few inches out from mating I fixed the throwout bearing and clutch fork to align but seems tranny output shaft gets stuck 3/4ths of the way in . Tried turning tranny to get spline aligned . Raised and lowered tranny and I still can't get it all the way in to mate Any ideas or tricks???? Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregchrysler Posted May 25, 2019 Author Share Posted May 25, 2019 I'm sorry forget to state car= m6 tranny 1949 Chrysler Royal Woodie 6 cylinder fluidmatic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 Something is misaligned. You may have to pull the transmission back and insert a clutch alignment tool or part of another input shaft. Otherwise, you may never be able to get that transmission to line up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 Nothing unique about inserting a M-6 into a fluid drive coupling... same as a 55 Chevy 3 speed job. A good tranny jack and flat smooth floor...pull it out re-align go in easy with it in low... rotate the drum back and forth till in goes in... watch the clutch fork and bearing position. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregchrysler Posted May 25, 2019 Author Share Posted May 25, 2019 thanks bob and keiser --the throw out bearing and clutch fork just slide on the output shaft?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 (edited) MoToR's says to be sure to use the guide pins to guide the transmission back in safely. Item 10 in the removal procedure is to remove the two upper transmission mounting bolts and insert guide pins in their place. This enables you to get things straight properly. Thus, get yourself two long bolts with a little thread and the rest unthreaded and cut off the heads. Then use them as guide studs. Edited May 25, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 The throw out bearing accurately slides over the input shaft bearing retainer sleeve... The clutch fork has two curled springs that hold the release bearing sleeve to the clutch fork. It's imperative that the release bearing that's already assembled to the fork is centered properly on and over the three fingers of the clutch pressure plate. Double check this by looking thru the release bearing hole into the splined hole of the clutch disc..... being sure it looks centered with the disc splined hole. I usually force the release bearing and fork assembly up slightly against the three fingers of the pressure plate by lengthening the clutch fork adjustment rod.... just enough to hold it in place centered on the pressure plate fingers. That M6 transmission uses two 7/16" X 14 threaded 3" studs already at the bottom two mounting holes in the bell housing. A lot of times they unscrew out of the bell housing and remain with the nut in the lower mount holes of the transmission. Put them back in the bell housing and use them as your installation/mounting guide studs. Installation pictures below are shown on a X- Member convertible hardtop frame....very tight angle installation. All other Chrysler models as yours are wide open straight shot into the bell housing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregchrysler Posted May 26, 2019 Author Share Posted May 26, 2019 Thanks bob exact duplicate of my tranny and throw out bearing great info thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 Clutch plate alignment is critical. If the plate is not exact center the nose of the input shaft wont go into the pilot bushing. I have had someone push the clutch pedal right at that critical point and things went into alignment. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 (edited) Be gentle pushing the trans in on a FD coupling... the graphite seal ring or bellows if the older seal style can be damaged. Edited May 26, 2019 by c49er (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 Thanks you all. This will help me get my trans in my 29 Dodge truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RansomEli Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 Making guide pins makes everything easier. The longer the better. Helps the transmission get properly lined up. On a couple of cars I've used three guide pins. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted June 9, 2019 Share Posted June 9, 2019 I had a pilot shaft alignment tool from years back when I put a tranny in a 72 Chevy Blazer. That same pilot tool matches the clutch plates on the 29-32’ Chevy cars at least because I use that old tool for them. One thing about Chevy, they didn’t change much in some area through the years! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted June 14, 2019 Share Posted June 14, 2019 While installing my 29 Dodge Bros trans I found a lot of build up of debris on my spline and my clutch plate teeth. I had all parts on my work bench and cleaned the spline and clutch plate teeth. I was able to assure the spline and clutch would match up before I installed them. It would help to place some super lube material on spline before I install in my truck. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregchrysler Posted June 16, 2019 Author Share Posted June 16, 2019 thanks everybody got it back in still no reverse sprag????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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