1914 or 15 studebaker six

[15stud6]

I am looking for some help, my grandfather passed away leaving his 1915 studebaker six. I am looking to take the car and learn as much as possible. First is there is some confusion on weather this car is a 1914 or 1915 year car. The serial number on the door is 500735. The gass fill is on the dash on the passenger side. The next big one for me is, was this car a brass car or nickle.  I am trying to learn as much as possible so hopefully one day soon I can drive the car. Any information will be greatly appreciated. Thank you! 

[nzcarnerd]

The serial number list in The Standard Catalog says the Model EC ran from July 1914 to June 1915. The serial numbers ran 500001 to 504483 - over 4,000 cars - and another batch - 613001 to 617155 - another 4,000 or so for a total of over 8,000 cars. Yours looks to be #735 so quite early. Maybe built in the first couple of months of production?

 

The concept of mid year to mid year models was quite common at the time. I read somewhere it was to tie in with the summer agricultural shows.

 

It us up to you what year model you call it.

 

The whole business of dating cars is a can of worms. When you buy a new cars you want the very latest model - so you get a 2020 car in September 2019. When it becomes an 'old' or 'collectible' car you want it to be as old as possible. 

 

Here in NZ, for car club purposes, old cars are usually dated by their first year of registration, but is hard to be that accurate. Of course in later years there were distinct 'model years' with numbers on the tail lights etc, and dated data plates. My 1965 Pontiac was built in the first week of September 1964, so I guess I could say it was a '64, but it is obviously a '65 just by its visual features, and the info on the data plates.

[15stud6]

Thank you for the information.  I am trying to figure out if this should have nickle or brass trim.  Where would I start to learn about the mechanical side of this car.  My dream is to atleast drive it once. 

[hwellens]

1 hour ago, 15stud6 said:

Thank you for the information.  I am trying to figure out if this should have nickle or brass trim.  Where would I start to learn about the mechanical side of this car.  My dream is to atleast drive it once. 

Here is some more info on the serial numbers. Looks like your car is a 15 model that my have been sold in 14, but, check the motor number to confirm.

[Spinneyhill]

Did your grandfather have any literature or documents about the car? Owner's manual for example. When was the car last driven?

 

Dyke's is a useful reference at this period. There is a 1915 or so version on line somewhere, but it is a big file.

 

Hopefully @studeq (Richard Quinn) will be along shortly. He will have and be able to supply pretty much all Studebaker literature about this car.

 

To drive it, you will have to make it start and run and most importantly, stop. I think I would look at the brakes first; they are mechanical so won't change once they are set up correctly. Get under and study the mechanism. Look for how the foot brake is balanced to left and right wheels. Look at how the hand brake operates on a separate set of shoes. Now look at all the connections. Are they badly worn? Holes should be round and pins should be cylindrical, not waisted. Make a note of everything that looks worn.

 

Search these fora for mechanical brake discussions. You will find documents on adjustments posted in some of them.

 

When you are ready to look at the engine, start to look at how the oil pan comes off. You should expect to remove it and clean it out. Older oil, without today's additives, turned to sludge during use and dropped muck everywhere in the engine. Oil today is more stable and will take its muck out at change time.

 

Update: here is a 1920 version of Dyke's you can download or read online.

https://archive.org/details/dykesautomobile00dykegoog/page/n6

 

 

Edited March 17, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[15stud6]

Wow thank you for the help!

 

The car last ran and drove in 2015 so not to long ago. It has a Chevy Transmition that was installed in front of the transaxle. The old trans was locked into high gear. 

 

Where would be best to find what type, weight and how much of motor oil to use? Also do I have to use special gas or add anything to over come the nonleaded fuel and ethanol in the modern fuels? 

 

[Spinneyhill]

If it last ran in 2015 it should be good for today's fuel with ethanol. You want the lowest octane fuel. Ethanol is hard on aluminium if it sits in it and also on old rubber parts, such as fuel hoses and perhaps in the carb (which it won't have at that date, I expect).

 

Oil: do you know it's history? Has it been overhauled and how long ago? If it is low to moderate miles, probably a 5W-30 would be good. Higher miles, perhaps 5W-40. Remember that ANY synthetic oil is better at minimising wear than ALL mineral oils. Hopefully, Studeq will be along and you can obtain an owner's manual, which will tell you how much oil. Expect at least 5 Litres.

 

Here is an original, very expensive manual:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1914-Studebaker-Model-Four-Owners-Manual-om615-TDIA3U/291918293611?hash=item43f7afaa6b:g:5C8AAOSwUEVYCiAV

Edited March 18, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Stude Light]

Spinneyhill has provided sound advice.  I would definitely drop the oil pan.  This is a splash lube engine.  Unless I plan on cold weather, I like to run straight weight oil, like SAE30.  Personally, I would start with mineral oil, run it for a while until you get all the issues resolved (like flooded carbs and running over rich, etc) then change the oil. This way you don't spend a bunch of money on the more expense synthetic for the first several hours of running. It's a matter of preference on sticking with mineral oil vs a synthetic....synthetic is best and costs more. Today's mineral is far superior than what was around in 1915 and will work fine.  I prefer mineral since I have no oil filter and like to do frequent oil changes due to the added carbon you get in the oil from less than ideal combustion in these old engines. I believe your car will take 6 quarts.

 

Just run lowest octane unleaded that you can find.  Ethanol free would be nice but there isn't any rubber or aluminum in your fuel system that would cause an issue. A friend has a 1914 SC-4 and could probably help with some questions.  Where are you located?

Scott

[studeq]

The quickest and easiest way to distinguish a ’14 model year car is the gas filler is on the cowl, See image #1 below. It is the only year it was located there. In ’15 it was moved inside. Since your car does not have the filer it is a ’15. The 1915 model year started production in July 1914 and continued thru June 1915. Cars were assembled in both Detroit and Walkerville, Ont.  The serial # range for South Bend built cars was 500001 to 504483. I have lots of literature on the ’15. I am attaching just a few of the items I have below.  

[studeq]

Here are a few more 1915 items. Have lots more.

[15stud6]

Thank you again for all the great information.

 

I am hoping to get the car moved soon so I can start going over it some more. I want to try to clean it as much as possible with out damaging the finish. I am not sure if the car has ever been restored or not. It looks like it may have been repainted at some point. And all the trim so to speak is brass.  Right now we are looking to give the car some care and love that it hasn’t seen in the last few years.

 

At this point I don’t even know the processes of starting and running the car with the spark and choke on the steering wheel among many other things.  My grandfather wasn’t one to pass on his knowledge of the car so it has been difficult. I am located in Connecticut.

 

[rbk]

If you intent to remove the Chevy transmission and repair the transaxle, I  have many parts for these transmissions.

Also tune up parts etc.

If you are on the East coast you should contact Dave Thibeault in Mass. 978 897 3158.

Dave is a parts vendor and is very familiar with Studebakers and an overall good guy.

Robert Kapteyn

[starlightcoupe]

On 3/18/2019 at 6:02 PM, 15stud6 said:

Right now we are looking to give the car some care and love that it hasn’t seen in the last few years.

At this point I don’t even know the processes of starting and running the car with the spark and choke on the steering wheel among many other things.  My grandfather wasn’t one to pass on his knowledge of the car so it has been difficult. I am located in Connecticut.

 

One really great first move I would urge you to make would be to join the Antique Studebaker Club.  The bi-monthly ANTIQUE STUDEBAKER REVIEW will connect you with parts and their vendors, technical information, history, restoration articles and great fellowship.

 

http://www.theantiquestudebakerclub.com/

[Rusty_OToole]

On the subject of gasoline, leaded gas wasn't even invented when your car was built. The available gas back then was heavy and oily, and low in octane. Many owners of such cars find they run better and cooler, and develop more power if they add up to 25% of kerosene or stove oil to the gas. If you don't do that it wouldn't hurt to add some Redex, Marvel Mystery Oil , or your favorite upper cylinder lubricant to the gas to protect the rings and valves.

[melbanolan]

looking for information on 1913 touring