canadiandeluxe Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Just bought a 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe about a week ago and have a few questions for you guys here. I think I need a new fuel pump and was wondering how I would test it to make sure it is broke and where I would find one? Also what else I should do to the fuel system? blow out the lines and clean the tank maybe? Also I would like to know where the heck the brake fluid would get into the master cylinder? I found the master cylinder under the floor but have no idea where the reservoir is. Also I havent tapped into the brakes but I assume they are fairly simple in there. What all would need to be redone in the brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 (edited) COOL car! First and foremost, get yourself a FACTORY shop manual for your specific car. One way to test the fuel pump is to take the line off of the carburetor end of the fuel line and insert it into a can. Crank the engine over to see if fuel is coming out or not. YES, clean the fuel tank and lines prior to cranking over. The master cylinder IS the reservoir as far as I know. There should be a hole in the floor to access the filler lid/plug. The shop manual will explain the brakes better than we can here. Edited December 30, 2018 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 A photo of the master cylinder will help us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 ok I will get a pic of the master cylinder later and post it on here. Would I just have to search ebay for a manual like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Yes, Ebay or a guy called Irv Bishko sells them, too. A reprint is good to get so you don't get grease all over an original. http://www.autobooksbishko.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 A really good place to get detailed information is here....http://p15-d24.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 I went and signed up haven't posted yet but looks like lots of info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 (edited) No separate reservoir on the master cyl. Just open the cap and fill till everything is covered, about 1/4 inch or so from the top. Good brake information: http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/ Edited January 3, 2019 by plymouthcranbrook (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 Also what kind of oil do you guys run in your old engines like that? Because I know they would've ran on single weight oil. Does just a modern oil like 5w30 work. I assume you prob need a bit heavier oil actually but. Because I would like to give it a few oil changes once its running good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 (edited) Depending on how clean the engine is internally you can run modern oils with no problem. Some folks have warned about using detergent oils in older engines with a lot of sludge as it could come loose and possibly block oil passages. Edited January 7, 2019 by plymouthcranbrook (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 (edited) From a repro maintenance decal dated 5-1950. Edited January 7, 2019 by TerryB (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted January 9, 2019 Author Share Posted January 9, 2019 Well if I find out what the inside of the engine looks like I will figure out what oil im going to use. I do have to replace the oil pan gasket anyhow. Also I was wondering how much work it is to convert an old car to a 12v system, I know you gotta change all the lights and some switches and stuff. But how much work is it really? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 Why do you really think you need to convert to 12 volt? Those plymouths with good thick cables,battery and a good starter crank over and start fast. I have a couple Plymouths and never a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 On 1/8/2019 at 10:02 AM, plymouthcranbrook said: Some folks have warned about using detergent oils in older engines with a lot of sludge as it could come loose and possibly block oil passages. And this is rubbish. If SA oil (i.e. non additive oil) has been used, the passages will already be blocked. SA oil dumps the dirt where the oil slows or stops (e.g. when you shut down) and it stays there. The passages in your crankshaft, the main oil ways, the supply to the timing gear, and everywhere else will be covered or clogged or nearly so, with dirt. Even the oil pickup screen in the sump might be mostly blocked. The whole point of multi-grade oil is to take the dirt out with it when you change the oil. Some will be picked up by such new oil in a dirty engine, but only where there is turbulence or high flow speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 well I have no idea what oil was used in it before but most likely a multi grade in its later years of life. I want to convert to twelve volt so I can add some modern touches to the car, I know it works just fine with six volt and will get drove like that for a while, but there are some things id like to do like modern type headlights and someday maybe a super stealth stereo install. I am a young guy after all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 15 hours ago, canadiandeluxe said: well I have no idea what oil was used in it before but most likely a multi grade in its later years of life. I want to convert to twelve volt so I can add some modern touches to the car, I know it works just fine with six volt and will get drove like that for a while, but there are some things id like to do like modern type headlights and someday maybe a super stealth stereo install. I am a young guy after all. I have made that 12 volt conversion on more than one old Mopar and the best way to make it work is to replace ALL of the gauges (except speedo) with aftermarket. The head lights if sealed beam wont be much better. You can carry another battery for the tunes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 So just add in a twelve volt system? Although I would need a way to charge it still. And just an update on the car. I got the new fuel pump on and made myself a new flex line because the old one was garbage and the old girl fired up pretty easy. Let it idle all the bad gas out of the lines and she even ran nice and smooth. I had water in the cooling system so i took it for a short drive up the lane using my parking brake as my brake and the car drives really good. Only issue is there was water leaking from where the clutch is, which kinda confuses me as to how that would happen. anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) The leak in the rear may be a core or freeze plug located at the rear of the engine block. You can see them in this photo.... Edited January 14, 2019 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) You cant really add a 12 volt system because the polarity will be conflictive. It appears that you will be taking things apart to replace core plugs. Not sure if its easier to take the tranny, bellhousing, clutch and flywheel. Or pull the engine. But you should take all of the core plugs out and give the water jackets a good cleaning. Edited January 14, 2019 by JACK M (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 ugh, I was wondering if there weren't some sort of plug back there. Guess I will read through the service manual see if it tells me how to do it. The struggle is real because I don't want to pull the engine out but if I did there would be a lot of stuff I could fix and clean, make it good and what not. But I can always do that later too. And also I don't want to make it a 12v system anymore, I did some looking and I think I will just go with a 6 to 12 V converter to run a few accessories, seems like a way better plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Don't go to negative ground. Stuff will be problematic if you try to change from original positive ground. Not sure if there is a converter for 6v pos grnd to 12v neg grnd, but with the way electronics are these days you might get lucky. Another option would be to create a fully isolated system and charge that 12 volt battery once in awhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Look at the top rear of the head where the heater hose is...it would leak down to the clutch housing as would the side core plugs...lookk em over carefully. I think if th engine has never been completely rebuilt the rear water jacket core plug is brass. You might also pull the lower clutch housing pan and look up in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted January 16, 2019 Author Share Posted January 16, 2019 10 hours ago, JACK M said: Don't go to negative ground. Stuff will be problematic if you try to change from original positive ground. Not sure if there is a converter for 6v pos grnd to 12v neg grnd, but with the way electronics are these days you might get lucky. Another option would be to create a fully isolated system and charge that 12 volt battery once in awhile. Well the car is already been switched to a negative ground, idk who did it or why but thats how it is now. Also I was looking and the converters say the ground can be either so once I get there I will go that way I think. I don't think I have a heater hose at the back of my engine. And like it leaked a significant amount of water out through the little hole in my bell housing until it seemed like it kinda got below the leak level so. So you can pull like thee bottom half of the clutch cover off for adjustments and stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Usually its because someone put the battery in backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted January 17, 2019 Author Share Posted January 17, 2019 Well the black cable is bolted to the engine block and the terminal is too small for for the positive post, so someone must have purposely changed them around, I guess I could change them back, although I don't know if it would make much difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61polara Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Put you battery in with the negative grounded as it has been. Turn on the ignition switch and watch what the apm meter does. It should do a drop to negative. If it moves to the positive side, the battery is in backwards and is still setup for positive ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadiandeluxe Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 6 hours ago, 61polara said: Put you battery in with the negative grounded as it has been. Turn on the ignition switch and watch what the apm meter does. It should do a drop to negative. If it moves to the positive side, the battery is in backwards and is still setup for positive ground. ok thankyou. I will do that when I see the car again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now