arnulfo de l.a. Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 I have owned this car since 2005. 1965 rivi gs. Up until today i always had to give the gas pedal a little tap to get the idle where it should be when i came to a stop.I finally did the throttle shaft bushing installation needed to fix the problem. At first i was a little hesitant to do it myself ,for fear of ruining the carb by not drilling perfectly straight . Its the original carb. But after watching a couple of youtube videos, i got the nerve up to give it a shot. I did both carbs.I took my time , was not hard at all with the right tools. Not only does it now return to proper idle speed when coming to a stop, the overall idle is also much better. There was alot of air getting by those sloppy throttle shafts holes as well as the linkage between the two carbs not being adjusted right. The car is even more of a joy to drive now. Next is hei ignition. Will let you guys know how that goes once its done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Arnulfo, glad it worked and the best thing it made the difference you were looking for For me keeping these toys in proper running condition and driving them so the tires wear out is reason for ownership. Steev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjp69 Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 can you post a link to the videos you used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, arnulfo de l.a. said: I have owned this car since 2005. 1965 rivi gs. Up until today i always had to give the gas pedal a little tap to get the idle where it should be when i came to a stop.I finally did the throttle shaft bushing installation needed to fix the problem. At first i was a little hesitant to do it myself ,for fear of ruining the carb by not drilling perfectly straight . Its the original carb. But after watching a couple of youtube videos, i got the nerve up to give it a shot. I did both carbs.I took my time , was not hard at all with the right tools. Not only does it now return to proper idle speed when coming to a stop, the overall idle is also much better. There was alot of air getting by those sloppy throttle shafts holes as well as the linkage between the two carbs not being adjusted right. The car is even more of a joy to drive now. Next is hei ignition. Will let you guys know how that goes once its done. Good job! Worn throttle shafts/base plates go unnoticed by many and performance suffers. In your case you had an obvious malfunction but often its loss of performance, idle quality, etc. Make sure your switch pitch is setup and working too. No experience like stomping the gas, opening those Dual Quad 4 barrels and the converter switching over, and trans kicking down into passing gear. when all three take place properly its exhilarating. 37 minutes ago, cjp69 said: can you post a link to the videos you used? Chris, I did a tech article in the Riview on re-bushing the Quadrajet base plates using a kit from Cliff Ruggles. What I don't know is if that kit will work on an AFB since Tom T did my 66 carbs. you could call Cliff and ask. The key is the special piloted drill to keep the center line. https://cliffshighperformance.com/Quadrajet-rebuild-kits-and-quadrajet-parts/category/quadrajet-bushing-kit Edited July 24, 2018 by JZRIV (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 100% in agreement with you steve. sorry man but not knowlegable enough to post pictures much less videos. I googled " CARTER AFB THROTTLE SHAFT BUSHING" and several videos came up. The one i found to be the best was by a man named HAROLD DEMES. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 (edited) I think that this is the one to which you referred. It's about doing a Quadrajet but the same technique would apply to the AFB. Takes all the fear out of aligning things so there's no binding anywhere. Ed Edited July 24, 2018 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 Thank you ed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Wow...must have really been worn out to bind the throttle linkage! Of course, the vacuum leaks were consistent with that. Binding linkage, ie the carbs not returning to idle speed (throttle blades completely closed), has been an issue since the carbs were new. There are bulletins about it and is the reason Buick modified the front carb trunnion, to reduce friction between the trunnion and rod, during the `65 model year. Also, the accel pump return spring in the front carb is different than a standard AFB. Maybe this plays a part in accel return, if so, replacing the spring with a more common spring might agravate the problem. Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 Curious about the modification you mention. Any pictures? You may be on to something about the accelerater pump to the front carb. It does have a much lighter spring than the rear. Does not have as strong a stream as the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans3 Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 In keeping with this topic, can someone post a link to the optimal forum post or Youtube vid for setting the switch pitch trans sensors? Thanks ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 Hans the switch pitch SWITCH is a micro switch located on the verticle throttle linkage arm . It should come on just as you depress the gas pedal. Sorry cant help with a video or forum post but if im not mistaken, there is a diagram and explanation on how to adjust in the factory manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 (edited) The kick-down switch also activates the torque converter. I believe it actually switches to the high-stall mode before activating the kick-down to 2nd gear. With the engine off and ignition switch ON you can manually activate the throttle under the hood and listen carefully for the solenoid 'click' at the transmission. You should hear it when moving the throttle just off idle, as arnulfo noted. The converter goes to high-stall at idle to reduce the tendency for the car to 'creep' forward when stopped at an intersection. Off-idle it goes back to normal (low) stall setting for economy. Then, as you approach 3/4 WOT you should hear another click when the kick-down switch activates high-stall mode again, which lets the engine wind-up faster in anticipation of the 2nd gear kick-down. Then just hang on tight! Edited July 28, 2018 by EmTee (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans3 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Excellent, thank you EmTee for the write-up. And I believe there should be two spade terminals on the trans itself, where each should induce a click if powered by +12V? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 Yes two that go to a common location but with separate spade receivers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 That's right -- the '68 and later transmissions dropped the switch-pitch feature and only have a single spade connection for the kick-down solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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