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Finally! Dual quads working right !


arnulfo de l.a.

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I have owned this car since 2005. 1965 rivi gs. Up until today i always had to give the gas pedal a little tap to get the idle where it should be when i came to a stop.I finally did the throttle shaft bushing installation needed to fix the problem. At first i was a little hesitant to do it myself ,for fear of ruining the carb by not drilling perfectly straight . Its the original carb. But after watching a couple of youtube videos, i got the nerve up to give it a shot. I did both carbs.I took my time , was not hard at all with the right tools. Not only does it now return to proper idle speed when coming to a stop, the overall idle is also much better. There was alot of air getting by those sloppy throttle shafts holes as well as the linkage between the two carbs not being adjusted right. The car is even more of a joy to drive now. Next is hei ignition. Will let you guys know how that goes once its done.

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7 hours ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:

I have owned this car since 2005. 1965 rivi gs. Up until today i always had to give the gas pedal a little tap to get the idle where it should be when i came to a stop.I finally did the throttle shaft bushing installation needed to fix the problem. At first i was a little hesitant to do it myself ,for fear of ruining the carb by not drilling perfectly straight . Its the original carb. But after watching a couple of youtube videos, i got the nerve up to give it a shot. I did both carbs.I took my time , was not hard at all with the right tools. Not only does it now return to proper idle speed when coming to a stop, the overall idle is also much better. There was alot of air getting by those sloppy throttle shafts holes as well as the linkage between the two carbs not being adjusted right. The car is even more of a joy to drive now. Next is hei ignition. Will let you guys know how that goes once its done.

 

Good job! Worn throttle shafts/base plates go unnoticed by many and performance suffers. In your case you had an obvious malfunction but often its loss of performance, idle quality, etc. Make sure your switch pitch is setup and working too. No experience like stomping the gas, opening those Dual Quad 4 barrels and the converter switching over, and trans kicking down into passing gear. when all three take place properly its exhilarating.

 

 

37 minutes ago, cjp69 said:

can you post a link to the videos you used?

 

Chris,

I did a tech article in the Riview on re-bushing the Quadrajet base plates using a kit from Cliff Ruggles. What I don't know is if that kit will work on an AFB since Tom T did my 66 carbs. you could call Cliff and ask. The key is the special piloted drill to keep the center line. https://cliffshighperformance.com/Quadrajet-rebuild-kits-and-quadrajet-parts/category/quadrajet-bushing-kit 

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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  Wow...must have really been worn out to bind the throttle linkage! Of course, the vacuum leaks were consistent with that.

  Binding linkage, ie the carbs not returning to idle speed (throttle blades completely closed), has been an issue since the carbs were new. There are bulletins about it and is the reason Buick modified the front carb trunnion, to reduce friction between the trunnion and rod, during the `65 model year.

  Also, the accel pump return spring in the front carb is different than a standard AFB. Maybe this plays a part in accel return, if so, replacing the spring with a more common spring might agravate the problem.

Tom Mooney

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Hans the switch pitch SWITCH is a micro switch located on the verticle  throttle linkage arm . It should come on just as you depress the gas pedal. Sorry cant help with a video or forum post but if im not mistaken, there is a diagram and explanation on how to adjust in the factory manual. 

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The kick-down switch also activates the torque converter.  I believe it actually switches to the high-stall mode before activating the kick-down to 2nd gear.

 

With the engine off and ignition switch ON you can manually activate the throttle under the hood and listen carefully for the solenoid 'click' at the transmission.  You should hear it when moving the throttle just off idle, as arnulfo noted.  The converter goes to high-stall at idle to reduce the tendency for the car to 'creep' forward when stopped at an intersection.  Off-idle it goes back to normal (low) stall setting for economy. Then, as you approach 3/4 WOT you should hear another click when the kick-down switch activates high-stall mode again, which lets the engine wind-up faster in anticipation of the 2nd gear kick-down.  Then just hang on tight!  ;)

Edited by EmTee (see edit history)
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