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1 hour ago, Ronnie said:


The video combined with the photos of that old house was almost a tear jerker for me. Thanks for sharing.


as I said earlier Ronnie, "Music with poetry that stirs the soul is the one way to pass on to others feelings and emotions" .  When I visited that old house, it brought up memories of that song from CSN&Y's album American Dream, I thought of it while posting and thought I'd share.  Glad it stirred someones emotions. :)

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Some of the corrugated tin I wanted to use on the brow had a bit too much shine to it so decided to take the shine off so it would match up better with the rest of the tin instead of sticking out like a new pair of shoes. I went ahead and cut it all to length first then used muriatic acid and water to thin up the galvanized coating surface then a concoction of vinegar, peroxide and salt to start the rusting process.











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51 minutes ago, GARY F said:

About your electrical insp. 8 yrs ago mine was similar. panel box and one outlet, no light and I was good to go.


ain't it nice livin in the country. The inspectors last name was Brown so about all it amounted to was "Here ya go Mr Brown" and "Well thank you very much Mr. Brown" and off he went. :D





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Thought a piece of 5V tin would work and look good as a valley gutter so crimped the edges of the tin back to act as a water dam and installed it with the end running wild to be cut to proper length after the adjoining tin was installed.







Time for some feelin.... some ol' time feelin.... from Guy Clark, a young Guy Clark






Pop a line and with a 4 1/2 " grinder cut the tin siding for the flashing to be inserted into. Both the top ridge board and the bottom ledger were cut to the angle of the roof slope so the metal would have plenty of area to rest on and be nailed.




The make sure the first piece is perfectly square to the building and go.









Had what I knew was some beautiful grained pined so decided to cut it to a bevel to show of it's beauty




and use them here








and it all comes together like this







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2 hours ago, MrEarl said:

I went ahead and cut it all to length first then used muriatic acid and water to thin up the galvanized coating surface then a concoction of vinegar, peroxide and salt to start the rusting process.


That concoction, as you say, should take care of a few weeds. ;)

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Also during the time I was building the "brow" the ground dried out enough and I was able to find some more good red clay fill and line up a hauler. I had originally laid down a couple inches of #57 stone on a pretty steep grade that I had concerns with it being too steep while also in a curve. I used plain stone instead of a graded aggregate base type material with fines in it as I did not want to cut off air and water to the old Post Oak tree roots. The bias ply tires of my '54's just dug in and spun. So I moved that stone and had 4 tandem loads of fill hauled in in order to lessen the grade. That puts me to like 65 loads total so far I think. Failed to get pictures of the loads as they were dumped into about 7-8 piles. Had a ball driving over the piles and leveling out with the ol Ford 2000, then grading it smooth. Pulled the stockpiled stone back down on it plus ordered another load of #6's for topping. Also took advantage of the loaded tandem to roll and compact the fill I had just installed. If I must say so myself, I've become a pretty good finish grade man with that ol Ford 2000 and 6 ft blade over the 30 years since starting the farm.















I also had one load dumped in the front to bring that grade up a bit and level up to the top of the concrete pad. That makes it 66 loads.





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Somewhere around this time I had put tin on the walls and ceiling of the welding shed. This was some really nice used tin from a 5 year old barn that had blown down in a windstorm.  My buddy Clarence from Nashville came down and helped with this. Clarence let one of the pieces of tin end up a bit off. Always good to have helpers you can blame stuff on.






The floor at the back wall is level. The wall along this side wall is sloping some as can be seen in the step of the tin at the bottom.




Left a 6 inch wide "vent"  at the top of the sloped roof to draw smoke and welding fumes out. I burned an old feed sack in the back corner of the room and was pretty satisfied with the way it worked. May install a small exhaust fan later.





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Thanks Chris, lots to still report on just to bring it all up to where I am on it now.  Once that occurs I hope to update every day or so of my progress. Should help provide some inspiration and incentive to get moving on it again.


Alrighty then, with the inside of it done, time to get some doors on it. This was a fun little project.

And considering the subject is "Doors"  and to wake everybody up.  Spent some time back in '72 running up and down the west coast in my Volkswagen bus, around Santa Cruz and hung out for awhile in a beautiful little town named Boulder Creek. This song puts me back there.


Click it if you like, if not just pass it by




Buckle your seat belts boys (and you too  'berta if you're following)


As it is a welding shed and there will be sparks flying, as with the interior of the shed I tried to keep the amount of exposed wood to a minimum. The opening is about 8' x 10' making each door about 5' wide = heavy.

First thing after getting good measurements of the opening and adding a half inch to the width and figuring out how to handle the slope in the concrete pad was to lay it out. Used the old 3-4-5 triangle method to lay it out on the concrete slab inside the garage. Came out to within a tad over a 16th out on the diagonal and figured that was good enough for a pole barn. In other words, I can paint over that. 















I am using the 1960's chicken house long leaf pine 2X6's that were the next thing to old growth heart pine. Dense and heavy. Picked out the clearest and straightest. Used the ol Makita to cut in half depth of each where it would be glued and screwed. Used Loctite PL 8X Fast Grab on both board before putting them together then screwed tight with no less than 6 2" exterior screws screwed in at an angle. Then attached some 1/4 " straps and corner braces with 1 1/2 x 1/4 lag bolts.



















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Time to turn the album over. And this song actually has some ties to Buick. It caused quite a rift between Jim and the rest of the band when Jim discovered the band was considering taking $75,000 for a Buick ad. In that commercial, the car company would use the band's hit "Light My Fire," changing the lyrics from "Come on baby light my fire" to "Come on Buick light my fire."  He threatened to leave the band, the commercial never made.  thus probably changing Buick history forever.


It's Buick related, have a listen... :P





Considering the weight the completed door would be and that this is a one man operation, decided to hang the door frame then add the corrugated metal and insulation. Hung with two of the biggest galvanized steel hinges from Tractor Supply.







Installed the corrugated tin on the front side then placed 3/4 inch foil faced Styrofoam behind that








then fit in more tin on the back side and framed it out with wood strips









Decided to let the old Made in the USA Strongbarn brand name be left exposed.






Added some bolt latches. Drilled into the concrete to receive both while closed then another whole in the concrete for to hold one open and drove a piece of pipe into the ground to hold the other open












Stapled up some rubber seal to slow the blowing wind down








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And done. And Elvis.





and note the slope the concrete and the step in the doors to compensate for it. Wanted to be able to wash the room out with a hose when needed.












From the inside.






Note the hundreds of screws that will not only serve to adhere the metal to the wood frame but also let the tin act as bracing and make the whole thing more rigid. I went back a couple months later and torqued them all down again.







And a couple of new galvanized handles aged with a bit of muriatic acid. and my OCD layout of screws






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51 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

It's amazing how perfectly spaced each screw is.  Especially the pattern on the front set of barn doors! 


Counting the corrugations and placing the screw  is pretty much all there is to it.  Anytime there are multiples involved in doing something, I count them, no matter if they need counting or not. I think it started back when I was 15 working a summer job loading hot freight cars with 50 lb bags of dog food.  Sometimes I even catch myself counting the times I turn a screw or nut onto a bolt.

I really thought I'd hear something from you about not making the back driveway conducive to pulling in and backing a trailer up to the back door of the garage. :P:D


54 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

The red door.  Gotta love it.   Nice work on the door you made!   


Rita actually chose the color of the back doors. Works for me. :D  Thanks for the compliment on the doors. They have been up now for over 2 years and no sag or warpage yet, and the bolts still hit good in the holes in the concrete well, so I believe they'll do.


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and something else I am doing at the top of all the door frames. Installing an eyebolt for lifting engines, rearends, lawn mowers or anything else up to about 600 lbs. The door frame top headers are double 2x10s with 2x10's or in this case where I will only be lifting lawn mowers and small engines etc, 2x6 and 2x4 nailed and glued to them. The eye bolts are 3/4 inch and are overkill rated at 5000 lb lift capacity so should also be able to take side strains if I need to winch a car up to the door.











What the below picture  doesn't show well is that that is a  a 4x6 treated pine that was notched to fit over  and down into the headers to prevent sideways movement. Before buttoning it all up I had also screwed more screws through the header into the 4x6 also, thus tying it all together .  This will be used primarily for lighter weight lifting of lawnmowers etc. I feel comfortable it will handle anything up to 6-700 lbs which if anymore I would start worrying more about the structural integrity of the door frame itself. Maybe I'll put some "Load Limit" signs on it .





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45 minutes ago, MrEarl said:





Rita actually chose the color of the back doors. Works for me. :D  Thanks for the compliment on the doors. They have been up now for over 2 years and no sag or warpage yet, and the bolts still hit good in the holes in the concrete well, so I believe they'll do.



Nice color choice, Rita! 

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'bout this time I had me some good luck and fell into some good deals on some materials for the inside of the garage.


I was sho nuff feelin like ol Mr Lucky


Mr John  Lee Hooker



Called about an ad in CL and talked to the great grand daughter of a lady who she and her husband had built this house back in the late 1800's and it had been in the family since. The roof had developed leaks several years ago and had been going down hill since. So the grand daughter decided to deconstruct and sell the material. Luckily I got in on the front end and was able to buy some beautiful old doors, bead board and flooring.

Met the grand mother of the lady I bought the materials from and enjoyed hearing about when she grew up in the house and boy was she proud of the old Rhododendron outside the kitchen window. The yard was full of rhodos, azaleas and camellias. Here is the back yard of the house










Some breathtakingly beautiful doors. These and the unpainted bead board will be used for paneling and walls in the Sales Room/Front office area.







And the beadboard of which I will use some to build the barn type doors of the main building. This is all I could afford at the time but luckily was able to go back for more later.







and some of the flooring on the right




and this was actually the front door to the house.





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Some more architectural pieces I've picked up lately, not from the same old house but likely the same period. Check the rings in these bulls eyes. They will go over the interior side of the front door man door, the door leading back into the the shop and the window in the office area.









And some painted bead board. I used a good bit of this type bead board when we built the house. Best way to get the look I liked was to leave it lay out in the rain and sun a few days, all the paint will start to peel. Then just scrape the paint off until the patina gets to the point you want, lightly sand it then apply a clear sealer.







And some wooden cabinets to go above the lab cabinets. These were free for taking them down off the wall of a house that was being renovated. Old knotty pine. I'll use the main frames of them and make new doors out of some of the bead board.







An old tanker desk and file cabinets from a local newspaper office.







An "All-Steel" storage cabinet from the University of Georgia that ended up at the local Potters House. Very heavy duty.










And a late 1940's Norge refrigerator. A local appliance shop put a new compressor in it but the lines are stopped up. He tried running a piano wire through the lines to clean them out but did not meet with success. I have a couple more of the same vintage that work great so will likely keep this for paint storage.    












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3 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Almost 140 years and never painted? You are one lucky son of a gun!  Beautiful.




53 minutes ago, Rivman said:


I have to agree, great job on the doors! AND nice pattern too!


If I tried making them they would end up all kinds of cockeyed!


It looks like Elvis is relaxing as usual?


40 minutes ago, Rivman said:


Again, I agree, good find on the doors and boards, I bet they do, or will look great!



Thanks guys. The doors are even more amazing in person. How did they ever go this many years without somebody painting them? And are in such good condition.  Not sure how exactly I will use them as paneling in the office area. Considering cutting them horizontally  in between the top and bottom panels and using the top (tallest) panel as wainscoting then the rest of the way up with the unpainted bead board. The bottom shorter panels could then be cut in half vertically for use on some built in cabinets.  I just don't know if I can bring myself to cut them up though. Guess we'll see when the time comes.



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I was needing to get some permanent grassing done but before I did that I knew I needed to run some subsurface drainage, a gray water drainage system and a water line. This time I wasn't so lucky as the daily temperatures were hitting in the mid to upper 90's. But I couldn't put it off or I would miss my window for grassing. 


As I had chose not to install gutters on the building and was not wanting to take a chance on the roof waters migrating back under the slab, I decided to run a subsurface drain down both sides of the building. So I pulled some of the stone I had put down earlie back off and proceeded to dig a trench for a subsurface drainage. Basically an in ground gutter. 






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then it was time to lay some waterline and run the drain pipe down the hill from the garage. Hotter than 400 hell and the fan was blowing hot air. Hand dug an 18 inch deep trench for both the lines. Not shown here but I also tied into a water line to an outside spigot I ran before the concrete slab was poured.  




Inspector Kowpi approved the ditch.




The drain line from the subsurface drainage and heading back to the gray water tank . Also in the ditch but not seen here was a 3/4 inch water line.



While I was good and warmed up from digging the trenches thought I'd go ahead and dig the pit for the gray water disposal system. I had ran a couple of perc test and luckily the clay soil I had hauled in drained at about an inch per hour which while not great would typically pass for a septic tank drain field. Plus I would only be running small amounts of water from a sink periodically. Used the Ford 2000 to auger up the ground then dug down with hole diggers and shovel.


'bout this time for some unknown reason this song came to mind








plus I actually ended up digging down to the bottom of the fill material and into the topsoil so I am sure that will drain well.






Drilled some holes in a 55 gallon black plastic drum.




Note the two big holes toward the top. The top one is for the waste water pipe coming in, the bottom one is for overflow, it connects to the perimeter drain that goes down the hill and empties out to daylight.







Filled the bottom foot of the hole with 57 stone, set the barrel in level and filled in around it to the top.











covered over it with a 4'x4' 1/4 inch steel plate and black plastic and filled in over the top which left it about 6 inches beneath the top of ground, enough to grow grass.







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Love the flavour and decor this garage is going to have! :)




While not trying to high jack your thread just wanted to show what I hope to score down the road.

I grew up in a house that was built in 1959 and we moved there in 1963 with the basement finished with knotty pine. Other than the wall separating the utility area from the main room all the other walls just had wains coating including an L shaped bar.

Mom is still there but when she decides to sell I hope to see if the new owners will be updating the basement and offer them my services to dismantle the wood in exchange for it all.



The back side of the door was never finished. I always loved the sound of the metal latch clicking shut.



Obviously time will tell but have had this in the back of my mind for some time and seeing your ideas coming to life well, one has to dream right? 

Meantime living that dream through your progress my good Sir. :)

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Knotty pine was the in thing back in the early 50's and through the 60's.  I see it advertised on CL ever once in awhile and is typically from houses of that era that are getting deconstructed or remodeled.

BTW I'd say that little jade green lamp up on the shelf and possibly the stool is from that mid century period also. Nothin wrong with dreamin, I'd be nothing without it.   

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15 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

BTW I'd say that little jade green lamp up on the shelf and possibly the stool is from that mid century period also.


If you look at the table on the right that came from our cottage from back in the day. 

I think there are two chairs with the original upholstery of the four that survived us kids. 

Mom just turned 90 and is slowly clearing things up. 

Wish my wife was more into liking nostalgia...

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Wow, all that diggin and heat from that last project posted almost gave me a heat stroke in February and got my back achin...


But lets march on...


With the plumbing and drain system in and summer coming to an end it was past time to do some landscaping in way of fine grading and grassing. Before I started the cut and fill for the building, I had the grade man push all the good topsoil up into two big piles. Using the ol Ford 2000 and a 5-6 cu ft scoop I backed into those two piles 280 times and carried loads of soil and dumped all around the garage. Not shown in the pictures but I then took a smoothing disc harrow and knocked down and leveled the piles before going over it several time again with the 5 ft blade. A slow and tiresome process. By the time I finished my left knee was swelling from clutching and I had a crick in my neck from looking back over my shoulder while backing into the piles. Not to mention the 98* high humidity days. Not to mention the stings from the yellow jackets who had made a home in one of the piles.

Pile #1




Pile #2 For those who don't know how a scoop works, you may can see the rope hanging from the roll bar that is used to trip the bucket. Once tripped a good operator can lower it while moving forward and spread the pile somewhat.





But since I'm not a good operator I just dump in piles and knock them down with the blade





ooops, backed into the pile a bit too hard one time, hit a big rock and broke one of the 3 point hitch control arms. A trip to Tractor Supply and back up and running in a couple hours.

















Because I was "PLANNING" to lay sod(more about that later sad.gif), I raked smooth and cleaned the whole area of rocks.










By 7:30 it's time for a wheelbarrow recliner and a cold Budweiser delivered by a very pretty waitress tellin me it's quitin time. Life don't get much betta!!!







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Back to the part "Because I was "PLANNING" to lay sod(more about that later ), I raked smooth and cleaned the whole area of rocks"

For the last two years I have been keeping about an acre of pasture mowed to about 3 inches high in anticipation of using the grass sod around my new building. It was some pasture that I had once grazed goats on and was some pretty fertile ground. Some Centipede grass had someway found it's way there and become beautifully established. After selling off the goats, I had let it grow up for 3-4 years so there was lot of brush and tree saplings starting to take over and I had bush hogged it a couple times.






After finish grading and raking the ground around the garage I rented a sod cutter and commenced to trying to cut the sod and load onto my trailer and move to the build site. Because the ground was so hard from no rain for 5-6 weeks the cutter would not cut the depth I needed unless I literally laid over on top of the machine which literally rattled my teeth and brains. Although I had spray painted all the sapling stumps I could find I inadvertently hit a couple and apparently caused the belt on the machine to break. I loaded it up on the trailer to carry back to the rental store but decided I better go ahead and load up what sod I had cut and and wet down and get in the shade. It was after all 97* and noon sun. As I started rolling the sod up and carrying to the trailer, I got an all to familiar stinging sensation on my stomach and legs. I looked down and my shirtless stomach and legs were covered with fire ants. I threw the sod down, dropped my shorts right out in the middle of the pasture and tried to get all the little red sons of b****** off me. I then headed to the house for a shower then back to the rental house to return the broken down cutter.






As bad as I hated to give up on the two year old plan, what with the heat, the problems I expected to continue having with the cutter and stumps and the fact there were fire ant mounds all over the pasture, I decided to give up and just plant Bermuda, the only thing that could "possibly" be planted that late in the summer.




I got half decent coverage but since it was so late in the summer, the roots didn't get established deep enough and I lost more than 80% of the grass to a couple of 12-15* freezes. I ended up just spraying out the little bit of remaining Bermuda and planting Centipede seed the next spring. Centipede being my first choice of grass anyway. Yep, just call me Mr Lucky.




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OK, enough about grass and fire ants. Time to get some walls up on the front. Although it is a "pole barn" I am building the front walls in more or less conventional stick build construction with 2x6 studs 24" OC and window and door headers etc.


to set the tone of the day.....




Started by building a 6X post onto the existing two front side treated posts. Love them 12 and 14 ft wood step ladders I scored at Habitat for Humanity for $30 each.

First "post" up....





Second post up....





Built the front in three sections on the concrete floor in the garage.












Some friends came over to help lift the wall sections. Each individual section was brought out and laid on leveled up 2x's. The bottom plate was butted up to iron pins to prevent it from skidding while being lifted up into place. It was then lifted up and over the pins onto adhesive on the concrete and lined up with the popped chalk line.

Section one, west side with barn door opening 










Section 2, east side, with triple window opening

MamaRita directing placement of bottom of wall with pins...














and the middle section. Built it 1/8" shy of actual plan width to ensure it would fit with no hanging up while lifting.








IT FIT and with a 1/16" to spare. I can paint over that.... OK for a "pole barn".





The treated base plate was glued using PL3X and nailed with a Hilti gun.






The single top plate was nailed to center of the bottom truss chord with 3 1/4 in nails and bolted with 6" Timberlocks every 24 inches.

All sections were nailed together with each nail strategically placed and as directed by MamaRita








Had to sit a window sash in the rough opening just to get an idea of how it will look looking out from the Buick show room. I think it will look OK.





Man I could get spoilt to having all that great help.






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After the initial grading was completed, I was never happy with the "knot" that was left in the front lower end of the site.  The slope was just too steep and didn't look natural. I knew it wasn't right before the grader left and even had him go on the back pasture and dig out some more material and track it over one loader bucket at a time but it was never "just right". So at this point I decided to have 3 more loads brought in and create a terrace for a small drive along the front of the building. Rita said something about it looked fine to her and I just wanted to play on the tractor more. I mowed the grass as low as the mower deck would go and pretty much just climbed over the three dump piles with the 2000 and blade and shaped it into the shape I wanted. Left the red clay for later covering with stone and the side slope with top soil so centipede grass seed could be planted in the spring.


See the knot I'm talking about...



Note the deer in the distance, feasting on my figs!!!




Elvis getting "excited" about something











Elvis even more "excited"










I think this'll do 






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OK, enough playing on the tractor and back to the build. After the lower wall was up, it was time for the part I have been looking forward to since breaking ground. Building the stepped upper false wall.

Luckily I had a friend from Sweden visiting for a few weeks whom I had been storing some cars for and had came over to help load them into containers for shipping back over the big pond. He ended up staying several weeks.  His help was a true blessing. Couldn't find anything by Chet related to Sweden but guess Norway is close enough.







After ensuring the first truss was perfectly plumb, and any deviations were worked out of the bracing,  the first thing to do was to run additional bracing and support to the trusses that would give more meat to the structure and allow the wall to be tied into it with nails and timberlock screws.







Then bring in more scaffolding and ladders





As with the bottom, the top wall was built in sections. The sections were then winched to the top center with a comalong (you can see the comalong at the top center of the truss) then slid along the top plate of the bottom wall to their respective places starting on each side.











And then it was ready for the last section.





Olof and the wench winch. Poor guy wasn't use to the Georgia sun and humidity.













Yayyyyy, it fit. Like a glove...









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Mr. Earl. You are doing a great job. I follow all your post. Question, When did you build this building that you are just now posting the build. Like I said I have been following anything you post for a few years. Who takes all the pictures? As far as Elvis goes, you better watch out.

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On ‎12‎/‎15‎/‎2017 at 4:59 PM, MrEarl said:

And my most liked and the one I used as a basis for the front false facade of my build.





On ‎12‎/‎15‎/‎2017 at 6:34 PM, MrEarl said:

And here is a graph paper sketch of my planned build.





2 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Yayyyyy, it fit. Like a glove...






Gettin’ there, and looking real close to your original plan!!!


Looks great!

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