37buick Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Hello everybody ! Still trying to work on my 37 special over here . My valve body butterfly shaft is seized, and actually the butterfly broke by just forcing on . It seems impossible to get that shaft off now . Any suggestions ? And if i ever get that off , can it be replaced or i should get a new one ? Thanks and have a great day ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick special Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 I always found that putting some Kroil on a frozen part for a few days usually frees it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 It took me several days of penetrant then heat and some light tapping to finally break mine loose then had to spot weld the damper return spring plate back on. I have to do the same with my 1925 damper unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted September 26, 2017 Author Share Posted September 26, 2017 I guess im going to start spraying some good stuff on that but im already preparing myself for the next step , replacing the damper itself . Thanks !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 I gave up on mine off of the '41 Roadmaster, I soaked it with penetrant for many days, heated it hit the end of the shaft, etc. All to no avail. I ended up bending them out of the way. It must of been many decades, perhaps since nearly new that these were working. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 So if thats the case , i can just remove the butterfly ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) Are we talking about the heat riser? If so, heat riser solvent works amazingly well, and the best of that crop, the Chrysler version, is still available. They have renamed it "Rust Penetrant", MoPar part number 4318039AC (shake before using!). It would work even better if the car were together and you could heat cycle it a time or two. Since it isn't, let is soak for a couple of days, then tap. It helps to keep spraying a little on now and then as it soaks. IMHO this stuff is even better than Kroil (and Kroil is great stuff). I wouldn't remove the butterfly unless a whole bunch of 37 Buick drivers tell you it's ok. Most cars that have heat risers need their heat risers. There are exceptions, but few. Edited September 30, 2017 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Mine was frozen so bad and partially open, so I chiseled it out, cut a piece of 14 gage to fit the hole and brazed it in, in the closed position and never looked back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 I take it '40 Buick heat risers work opposite of small block Chevys and '56 Buicks. On those cars, the butterfly needs to be open, or excess heat will go through the intake manifold after the engine warm up, overheating the engine. Brazing the valve closed on these will harm the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Closed and open is relative. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 (edited) I wish I could find a good graphic to illustrate this. The way most inline engine heat risers work is completely different than a typical v8. Usually on a v8, there is an exhaust passage through the intake manifold. When the heat riser is "closed" (cold) it blocks the exhaust on one bank, and the exhaust from that one bank has to go through the passage to get out the other side, heating the intake as it goes. When the heat riser gets hot, it rotates 90 degrees to full open. On an inline engine, the heat riser usually never blocks anything. When it is in the cold position, exhaust is directed up near the carburetor and then it flows back down. When it is in the hot position, the exhaust hits the plate (butterfly?), which diverts it straight out the exhaust pipe. Cold to hot is probably less than 90 degrees rotation. I still vote for fixing it. Edited October 2, 2017 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph P. Indusi Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 In my experience with straight eights, it is better to leave it "open" allowing exhaust gases to go directly out exhaust pipe if you cannot free it up. This will be fine in most instances unless the temperature goes lower than 50 F in which case there may some icing on throttle plate and a little longer warmup will be needed. Joe, BCA 33493 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 So ... i decided to just find a new heat riser . Called Dave Tacheney and told him that i had a carter in that car . Explained to him that as some members here told me that some 37s had the stromberg replaced by dealer back then . He never heard such thing ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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